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P 0410 Secondary AIR injection Pump

9K views 43 replies 8 participants last post by  Ranger 
#1 ·
I'm about to pull the caddy out from storage next week and last I left it with the PO410 code so I know that's one of the things I got to do right away,

There wouldn't be no vacuum sound on cold starts and the 50 amp fuse will blow every time I change it. So I'm I definitely looking at a pump replacement? Can I cancel out all the other issues related to the system since fuse keeps blowing due to a shortage cause by water? I never had this problem with my other 2 DTS's that had the pump.
 
#31 ·
It's an air pump. Of coarse it needs to breath. If it exhausts (blows) air, it has to intake air. You can cover or seal the pump all you want as long as the intake tube is connected and clear. It MUST draw air from somewhere.

So you are saying that you are pumping water into the exhaust manifold and thus into the CAT as well?
 
#32 ·
Ranger said:
It's an air pump. Of coarse it needs to breath. If it exhausts (blows) air, it has to intake air. You can cover or seal the pump all you want as long as the intake tube is connected and clear. It MUST draw air from somewhere.

So you are saying that you are pumping water into the exhaust manifold and thus into the CAT as well?
I understand it needs to breathe but I figured it does by taking in air and pushing it thru to the cat. There was no water at all under the pump on the splash shield it was dry.

no I don't think I'm getting water into the manifold or cat but I'm thinking water is getting into the hose that connect between the pump and the manifold possibly.

I don't think condensation could build up that much water that fast.
I read somewhere online that one of the check valves not opening up properly from rust over time could cause condensation to build and cause water to get back to the pump. What's your thought on that?

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MoistCabbage said:
Is the intake hose routed correctly?

Tape won't do anything, there's an O ring on the tube between the tube on the backside if the cover, and the pump.. The seal is made there, not around the edges of the pump.
Yes everything was installed correctly. I know for sure the water isn't getting in from the intake hose or the pump itself because there was no water sitting on the splash shield all the water came out from the hose that runs to the manifold. So my question is how could water get in from that end?
 
#34 ·
Ranger said:
Wait. I'm confused. If you have everything installed properly, what makes you think you are getting water in the system? Intake air is coming from under the hood. No way any water is getting in there.
Exactly my point. It didn't get in from under the hood. when i pulled the pump out water did NOT come out from the bottom of the pump it came out from the nipple that connects to the other hose that clamps to the pump. How else did water get into the pump then?
 
#35 ·
If you're not getting water from the pump it has to be coming from the exhaust system condensation. Pull that hose off the pump again and start the engine. Check for exhaust flow or pressure pulses coming upstream. If so your check valve is bad and would also cause the code even when the pump is functional.

Vernon
 
#36 ·
Manic Mechanic said:
If you're not getting water from the pump it has to be coming from the exhaust system condensation. Pull that hose off the pump again and start the engine. Check for exhaust flow or pressure pulses coming upstream. If so your check valve is bad and would also cause the code even when the pump is functional.

Vernon
K will try that out but I haven't had any codes since I changed the pump but I will for sure try that and get back to you.
 
#40 ·
Ranger said:
Hmm. I suppose that could be a check valve (assuming that #8 & 9 are tight in the top diagram). It IS all down hill from the check valves.
I'm lost with this problem. It rained again this week and I could hear a gargling noise coming meaning the pump has water in it. Anyone know how and why I can hear a gargling noise coming from the snorkel when the engine is running even after the pump stops running?
 
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#42 ·
Manic Mechanic said:
Yes I know how and why. Back up to post #35 and see where I told you to check.

I guess I need to tell you that a check valve is designed to allow flow in only one direction and or only when switched on by vacuum or electrical. I've noted both switch types on Devilles with the newer ones having only one electronic. So if you have exhaust flow or pulses coming out of the air pump hose side of the check valve(s) it's broken. If so it's allowing exhaust moisture to enter and collect in the air pump outlet hose. Exhaust gasses contain a large amount of water vapor as witnessed by all no doubt on cold days as in condenses into steam as it leaves the tail pipes. The gurgle noise with to pump off would be exhaust pressure pushing through the accumulated water into the pump, like blowing bubbles into a cup with a straw.

Vernon
Thanks Vernon I got amazon to send me a brand new pump again before I install it I want to get this all fixed up. So would you assume it's the first check valve?
 
#44 ·
The check valves prevent exhaust gasses from flowing backwards (into) the blower (pump). They should have nothing to do with moisture. moisture gets in when the cover (#9) comes loose. It's a real shitty design. When I replaced mine I wrapped it with wire to be sure it never comes loose again. Thankfully, no one sees it because it looks like a real hack job.
 
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