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DHS Console Conversion

15K views 84 replies 12 participants last post by  Eninety2 
#1 ·
I got a PM from campos_motorsports asking about it, but when I tried to reply it rejected because you are not set up to receive PMs. Go into your profile settings and change it or post here.
 
#30 ·
Figuring out all that stuff along with the console swap wires partly completed was a doozy.

The tilt and telescope harness had to be re-pinned at c4 (for the traction control button) and c5 had to be uninstalled (that WAS the electric park lock cavity) yet, it was the brake switch feed I needed for the shift lock solenoid to work.

I had to run a separate terminal for the electric park solenoid with console shift since the base deville never had that. I had to also re wire the rear fuse box.

The car looks like a jigsaaw puzzle right now, but I'm wrapping up my soldering. I'll install the steering column, finish off the last of the console connections and worry about the rear intergation module connection tomorrow and install the shift cable.
 
#32 · (Edited)
I didn't even tell you about the part of dismantling the old column, taking out the ignition lock cylinder, theft module, and igniton switch. THEN reinstalling all that stuff onto the tilt & telescope column.

That was the easy part. Between the tilt and telescope column and the base column, I had to figure out what wires needed to be swapped where, and then I still had the shift lock solenoid and traction control wires to still power up.

What threw me off the whole time was the electric park lock solenoid, I never had the diagrams for that AND I have to wire in the fuse box, add a relay and the rear DIM connection for that......PHEW.......

I'm beat just rehashing the whole ordeal.......
 
#34 ·
exactly!!!!!

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Two conversions at the same time?! :helpless::helpless::bonkers::bonkers::bonkers::bonkers:

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Well, the column is physically in......

It has a wood steering wheel that has seen it's better days and it's 15I. I needed 92I but beggars can't be choosers. I'll paint the column covers and remount my steering wheel, for now. A wood wheel is in my future....


NO MORE COLUMN SHIFT.......WHOOP PEEEEEE!!!!

Back to the electrical connections........geez.
 
#37 ·
Thanks Ranger!!

The rear intergration module is number 1 in the illustration. Through some more digging, I have to remove the trunk compartment trim to access the panel.

All the front wiring is complete. The column is in. I have to add the wire to the rear intergation module for the electric park lock. Add the park lock relay. The reverse lock out fuse is already in from that portion of the console install.

I'm going to take a break and go pick up some SEM graphite/pewter interior trim paint to re-do my column cover shrouds. Wash the shrouds thoroughly and clean them up for paint, then tackle the last of the wiring, swap steering wheels and install the shift cable last.

Almost done.......:bouncy::banana:
 
#38 ·
Painted the column covers..........

THEY CAME OUT SWWEEEET!!!

The SEM colors didn't match 100%, but I found a bumper cover color that matched damn close. It even had an adhesive promoter in the formula?! I took the original cover into the store to get the closest match possible.

Washed the "new" covers in Dawn dish washing detergent, scuffed them a little with my grey scotch brite pad. Washed then again in Dawn detergent, dried them off with towels. Heated the first cover up with my heat gun on low setting to dry off any moisture that may be hanging around. Shook the paint can good and sprayed away. Dried the paint a bit with the heat gun.....no runs, no drips, no errors.

It came out fantastic!!!!

:cloud9::banana::cloud9:

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Well, time to clean up the tools a bit and get ready to empty out the trunk for the last of the wiring modifications.

:eek:hthedrama:
 
#41 ·
The soldering iron is heating up for the last time for the conversion.

The last circuit to complete is from the fuse box to the rear intergration module. After that I can close up the rear fusebox, put everything back in the trunk, swap steering wheels, put on my column covers and tackle the shift cable, when my coolant connector comes in a day or two.

This has been a battle, but it has been enjoyable thus far. It'll be better when it's all functional.

Stay tuned........
 
#43 ·
Column covers are on. The color match is AWESOME!!!!! :beavis:

Steering wheel is back on (wish I had the wood one), right side console extension cover is in place, ignition lock cylinder is in the N37 column.

Waiting on my heater pipe connector to come. Then I'll run the shift cable, fix the connector leak, then reconnect the battery and try it all out.

Physically it looks great.......
 
#50 ·
Was bored late last night, installed the shift cable.

Wasn't too bad coming out, but the "new" one going in was a bit tedious. Everything buttoned up peferctly.

My coolant connector is due in today.

The console is completely assembled down to the carpet panel covers, it looks fantastic.

I'm truly glad I did this conversion to the car. The dash looks a bit different without that shifter arm up there. To me, less cluttered.

I can hardly wait to test everything out.......
 
#51 · (Edited)
Ok,

Here's the deal. EVERYTHING WORKS GREAT!!!! One draw back, I have one code VTD B3055, no key present?!

Ok, I swapped in the tilt column. Swapped my old ignition lock cylinder, switch and theft module over to the power tilt column figuring it'll fire right up with the "original" components. Well, come to find out when you replace the following components you have to reprogram an "unlearned" key into the ignition lock cylinder?!

Use this procedure when you replace the following components:

•The PASS-Key® theft deterrent control module
•The steering column assembly
•The PCM
•The ignition keys
•Insert a valid mechanical coded unlearned ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder.
•Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. The SECURITY indicator illuminates for the length of the auto learn timer (10 minutes).
•When the auto learn timer expires and the SECURITY indicator turns OFF, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Remove the key
•Wait 10 seconds.
•Repeat steps 1-4 twice for a total of 30 minutes.
•Insert the newly learned key into the ignition lock cylinder.
Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. The SECURITY indicator remains OFF. This indicates that the new ignition key was learned.

Last but not least, my condition at present.....


SECURITY indicator stays Illuminated and Engine Does Not Start :
The theft deterrent module measures an invalid transponder value when the ignition key is turned to the ON position.

So, what does this all mean for me? I have to get new keys cut and run through the above procedure......

Shift lock works, steering lock works, when I shift to drive, doors lock. I needed new keys anyway but that wasn't on the priority list, but I guess it just moved up a bit. I never had a valet key, so I guess I might as well opt for one of those too.

The good thing everything works..... stay tuned.

:bouncy:
 
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