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2002 DTS rear shocks $$$

23K views 74 replies 15 participants last post by  stoveguyy 
#1 ·
My Caddy is at the dealership under a GMPP plan (it expires this week).
Anyway, I am gettinga bunch of things fixed, uncluding a new ELC for the rear sag on my car - but my rear shocks are leaking, per the dealer.

How much do rear shocks cost for a 2002 Deville DTS?
The dealership told me about $700-800 and I just laughed at him.

Any help or suggestion!??
 
#2 · (Edited)
Re: 2002 Deville DTS rear shocks $$$

Shocks for your car (active suspension) are $585 apiece, RockAuto. Those shocks also incorporate the air bladders for ELC (Electronic level Control).

It's a $50,000 performance sedan, and that's where maintenance costs will lie.
 
#3 ·
Re: 2002 Deville DTS rear shocks $$$

your car uses air shocks on the rear -

OK - OIL FILLED SHOCKS THAT HAVE AN AIR BLADDER
CONNECTED TO A COMPRESSOR
TO MAINTAIN PROPER RIDE HEIGHT -

like I said - air shocks -

any replacement shock you choose will be an air shock -

except if you go with a coil-over shock
because the compressor is shot - but that's another story -

you only have a couple choices -

stay with the "ACTIVE" suspension and spend the big bucks -
but you can still save some money compared to OE -

Monroe - LEFT - #40029 - $372.35 with free shipping from -
http://www.autopartsway.com/Part.cfm?40029/MON

and - RIGHT - #40030 - $372.43 with free shipping from -
http://www.autopartsway.com/Part.cfm?40030/MON

these are direct replacement units for your "ACTIVE" suspension -
at a substantial savings compared to OE -
-------------------------

the other - MUCH CHEAPER - solution -
is to go with "PASSIVE" rear shocks -
just like the base model Deville and DHS use -

Monroe #MA822 is an EXCELLENT replacement -
it uses the factory air lines - simple plug-n-play -

and you won't believe the price -
$50.98 - FOR THE PAIR - YES - BOTH REAR SHOCKS - with free shipping -
http://www.autopartstomorrow.com/part_numbers/269835-rear-max-air

so - "what's the catch" you ask -

the "PASSIVE" shocks use a fixed valve that doesn't change -

the "ACTIVE" rear shocks use an electronically adjusted valve
that can change how the shock works -
it can go from a soft ride - to a very stiff ride -
in the fraction of a second -

the computer receives all sorts of input from a gazallion sensors -
speed - direction - braking - accelerating - etc -
analyzes that input - and changes the shocks -

IF you really drive the car in a "spirited" manor -
you might feel the difference between
an "ACTIVE" and a "PASSIVE" suspension -

SOME of the members will tell you
if you don't replace with the "active" shocks -
you no longer have a DTS - yadda - yadda - yadda -

I say - if you don't "drive on the edge" -
you'll never know the difference -
 
#5 ·
Re: 2002 Deville DTS rear shocks $$$

your car uses air shocks on the rear -

OK - OIL FILLED SHOCKS THAT HAVE AN AIR BLADDER
CONNECTED TO A COMPRESSOR
TO MAINTAIN PROPER RIDE HEIGHT -

like I said - air shocks -

any replacement shock you choose will be an air shock -

except if you go with a coil-over shock
because the compressor is shot - but that's another story -

you only have a couple choices -

stay with the "ACTIVE" suspension and spend the big bucks -
but you can still save some money compared to OE -

Monroe - LEFT - #40029 - $372.35 with free shipping from -
http://www.autopartsway.com/Part.cfm?40029/MON

and - RIGHT - #40030 - $372.43 with free shipping from -
http://www.autopartsway.com/Part.cfm?40030/MON

these are direct replacement units for your "ACTIVE" suspension -
at a substantial savings compared to OE -
-------------------------

the other - MUCH CHEAPER - solution -
is to go with "PASSIVE" rear shocks -
just like the base model Deville and DHS use -

Monroe #MA822 is an EXCELLENT replacement -
it uses the factory air lines - simple plug-n-play -

and you won't believe the price -
$50.98 - FOR THE PAIR - YES - BOTH REAR SHOCKS - with free shipping -
http://www.autopartstomorrow.com/part_numbers/269835-rear-max-air

so - "what's the catch" you ask -

the "PASSIVE" shocks use a fixed valve that doesn't change -

the "ACTIVE" rear shocks use an electronically adjusted valve
that can change how the shock works -
it can go from a soft ride - to a very stiff ride -
in the fraction of a second -

the computer receives all sorts of input from a gazallion sensors -
speed - direction - braking - accelerating - etc -
analyzes that input - and changes the shocks -

IF you really drive the car in a "spirited" manor -
you might feel the difference between
an "ACTIVE" and a "PASSIVE" suspension -

SOME of the members will tell you
if you don't replace with the "active" shocks -
you no longer have a DTS - yadda - yadda - yadda -

I say - if you don't "drive on the edge" -
you'll never know the difference -

for a NON car guy like myself, that was a fantastic explaination.

as i mentioned before, my caddy dts is in the shop getting her last GMPP warranty fix.
the new ELC going in.....will my dts will automatically 'level out' if i put the cheap shocks in?

the reason i need new shocks is that the air on the shocks, or whatever, is leaking - thus the ELC failed.
it will only be a matter of time before the ELC works too hard and breaks if i dont fix the shocks.
PLUS with my 2 12's in the trunk, the back of the car sags.


as far as putting the shocks in, how easy is it?
ive never done anything like this before.
how long does it take?
my buddy is a mechanic and i think he doesnt want to help me out, he says it will take 2 hours and a lot of labor.
tell me he is lying!

as far as my riding style. i just cruise.
i rarely drive aggressively and usually coast to a smooth 85-90 on the highway.


AND if you replace them with the passive Monroes you will have a "Service Suspension - Speed Limited To 90" message on the dash board. I believe it can be defeated with some resistors in the wiring.
would the speed actually cut off @ 90mph or is it just a warning liek if i have low tire pressure......i can just scroll thru it and not see it again until i turn the car off/on???
 
#6 ·
DonRSD said:
will my dts will automatically 'level out' if i put the cheap shocks in?
If nothing else is wrong with the system, any ELC compatible shock will work. They don't have to be active, CVRSS has nothing to do with the ELC system.

as far as putting the shocks in, how easy is it?
ive never done anything like this before.
how long does it take?
my buddy is a mechanic and i think he doesnt want to help me out, he says it will take 2 hours and a lot of labor.
tell me he is lying!
He's lying. It's an hour job to replace both. There's barely any labor involved at all. Jack the car up, remove the rear wheels, open the trunk, move the trunk lining out of the way. Each shock is held on with ONE bolt and ONE nut. Disconnecting the air line takes about 5 seconds.

as far as my riding style. i just cruise.
i rarely drive aggressively and usually coast to a smooth 85-90 on the highway.
You should have gotten a base or DHS.

the speed actually cut off @ 90mph or is it just a warning liek if i have low tire pressure......i can just scroll thru it and not see it again until i turn the car off/on???
The speed is physically limited. You'd have to install resistors to "trick" the computers.
 
#7 ·
If nothing else is wrong with the system, any ELC compatible shock will work. They don't have to be active, CVRSS has nothing to do with the ELC system.

He's lying. It's an hour job to replace both. There's barely any labor involved at all. Jack the car up, remove the rear wheels, open the trunk, move the trunk lining out of the way. Each shock is held on with ONE bolt and ONE nut. Disconnecting the air line takes about 5 seconds.

You should have gotten a base or DHS.

The speed is physically limited. You'd have to install resistors to "trick" the computers.
----------------------------------------------------

:yeah: ---------MC sums things up pretty well -
------------------------


for a NON car guy like myself, that was a fantastic explaination.
thanks - I try -

will my dts will automatically 'level out' if i put the cheap shocks in?
YES -
but don't confuse a quality low-cost Monroe shock with cheap shocks -

PLUS with my 2 12's in the trunk, the back of the car sags.

without the air shocks - the rear of your car WILL sag -
even if the trunk was empty -
 
#8 ·
Does that GMPP plan pay for all parts and labor? If it does, have them put in what is supposed to be there which is active shocks like the Monroe 40029 and 40030. However, since it's the dealership, they will probably put in the AC Delco's which are actually Gabriel brand shocks. It'll still be better than shocks that leak.
 
#12 ·
The DHS IS the top of the line model as is the DTS (MSRP was exactly the same for each model). One is performance oriented and the other is luxury oriented. I can fully understand the floor shift though. I converted mine to a floor shift.

I've never done the resistor mod to fool the system when installing passive shocks. I think Arnott may have the kit.

By installing the "cheaper" (passive) shocks you loose the "active" suspension that will react to road and driving conditions as opposed to just dampening the float when you hit a bump. That is one of the big differences between the DTS and the DHS.
 
#15 ·
there will be no sag if you get ELC compatible shocks ... either passive or active

the third option would be standard (non-ELC) shocks which cost about the same as the passive ELC shocks basscat is recommending

nobody is recommending you go with non-ELC shocks - and that is the only way you will end up with sag
 
#31 ·
100% understood.

These will give you the ELC function you need to keep the rear from sagging, but you will have to get the kit or use resisters in the electrical harness to keep the dash light off. Shop around or use the link basscatt provided to get the best price.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=61825
Ok, so that link there includes 'the kit'.
Does that mean I DONT need the resistors (I can go above 90mph with no modification) or will I still need the resistors?

The rating you'd need is 1/2 watt, 4.7K ohms.
Thank you!!!

----------------------------
As far as the resistors, where do I put them

you will see an ELECTRICAL PLUG - on the top of the shock -
not the air hose - an electrical plug -
unplug it - fold the 2 ends if the resistor down -
and plug the resistor into the electrical plug
that you unplugged from the shock -

this "fools" the suspension computer
into thinking the ACTIVE shocks are still connected - and working -

if you don't use the resistors -
you will get an error message on the dash that says -
SERVICE SUSPENSION SYSTEM - or something like that -
:thumbsup:

alternatively you could canibalize the connector on the old shocks

cut them off from the old shocks then wire in the resistor as if it was the shock
that way you can do a proper soldering job and use a good heatshrink tube to keep the weather out

this allows you to simply plug the two plug ends back together and if in the future you or another owner wants to get the car back to active suspension it's no big deal to just unplug the connectors
That's a good idea.
Thank you!


```````````````````

AGAIN......thank you guys!!!
I can't express how much you all have helped me out.
I'm going to get the new PASSIVE AIR SHOCKS linked above this weekend, but I won't have time for a week or 2 to install them.

Hopefully this thread can help someone else out in the future :)
 
#18 · (Edited)
DonRSD said:
where do i put the resistors? youre talking chinese to me :bonkers:
The resistors go anywhere in the damper actuator circuit. You can install them at the electrical connectors in the wheel wells, or in the trunk at the CVRSS module. A package of resistors is $1.19 at Radio Shack, you use one per corner. No need for a "kit". The rating you'd need is 1/2 watt, 4.7K ohms.
 
#19 ·
your car has ELC - Electronic Level Control -

the ELC system consists of several parts -

a compressor assembly -

a level control switch -

air lines -

and air shocks -
the DTS original air shocks are ACTIVE -
the base Deville and DHS models air shocks are PASSIVE -

lets say you have a properly working ELC system -
and you have 3 big fat people in the back seat -
and 800 pounds of stuff in the trunk -

the rear end will be sagging - due to the extra weight -
as soon as you turn the ignition key ON -
the level control switch tells the compressor assembly to turn on -
air pressure is delivered - through the air lines - to the air shocks -
and raises the rear end - to a predetermined height -

now - lets say you kick everyone out of the back seat -
and remove all the stuff from the trunk -
the rear end will be sitting WAY too high -

the level control switch tells the compressor assembly the rear end is too high -
the compressor assembly opens the exhaust valve -
which is built into the compressor assembly -
and releases the "EXTRA" air pressure -
allowing the rear end to return the the proper -
predetermined ride height -

BOTH the expensive ACTIVE air shocks -
and the cheap PASSIVE air shocks -
will work PERFECTLY with the other components of the ELC system -

I hope this clears things up for you -
 
#22 ·
YES

BOTH the expensive ACTIVE air shocks -
and the cheap PASSIVE air shocks -
will work PERFECTLY with the other components of the ELC system -


they both REQUIRE the air lines - because they are both air shocks

and the original air line will plug right in - without any adapters -
 
#23 ·
I'll try to make this as simple as possible:

If you want to maintain BOTH CVRSS ACTIVE SUSPENSION AND ELC FUNCTIONALITY, you have 2 choices.

Ac Delco:

Left - 580130
Right - 580131

Monroe:

Left - 40029
Right - 40030

If you want to FORFEIT CVRSS ACTIVE SUSPENSION, and RETAIN ELC FUNCTIONALITY, you have several choices. Most everyone here will recommend Monroe Max-Air passive replacements.

Part# MA822, same for both sides.

If you go passive, you will also need a package of resistors from Radio Shack, model/catalog# 271-1124. $1.19 for a package of 5.
 
#25 ·
I'll try to make this as simple as possible:

If you want to maintain BOTH CVRSS ACTIVE SUSPENSION AND ELC FUNCTIONALITY, you have 2 choices.

Ac Delco:

Left - 580130
Right - 580131

Monroe:

Left - 40029
Right - 40030

If you want to FORFEIT CVRSS ACTIVE SUSPENSION, and RETAIN ELC FUNCTIONALITY, you have several choices. Most everyone here will recommend Monroe Max-Air passive replacements.

Part# MA822, same for both sides.
------------------------

you just confused him - GUARANTEED -

-------------------------------------------

Don -

CVRSS
is the correct/technical name for the ACTIVE air shocks -

Continuously Variable Road Sensing Suspension
 
#26 ·
You guys are awesome!!!

I'm sure you can tell I'm NOT a car guy by any means.

You all have answered all my questions without getting frustrated.
I can't thank you guys enough for all the kind advice.

After all of this, I'm going to save some $$$ and get the passive shocks.

As far as the resistors, where do I put them?
 
#27 ·
----------------------------
As far as the resistors, where do I put them

you will see an ELECTRICAL PLUG - on the top of the shock -
not the air hose - an electrical plug -
unplug it - fold the 2 ends if the resistor down -
and plug the resistor into the electrical plug
that you unplugged from the shock -

this "fools" the suspension computer
into thinking the ACTIVE shocks are still connected - and working -

if you don't use the resistors -
you will get an error message on the dash that says -
SERVICE SUSPENSION SYSTEM - or something like that -
 
#30 ·
alternatively you could canibalize the connector on the old shocks

cut them off from the old shocks then wire in the resistor as if it was the shock
that way you can do a proper soldering job and use a good heatshrink tube to keep the weather out

this allows you to simply plug the two plug ends back together and if in the future you or another owner wants to get the car back to active suspension it's no big deal to just unplug the connectors
 
#34 ·
So buying the passive shock "kit" doesn't mean anything as far as the resistor.
I'll have to buy the resistors at Radio Shack and put them on or cut the active shocks and put them on the passive shocks.

Gotcha :)

I just didn't know if there was a kit that came with the passive shocks & resistors built in.
 
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