Replacing Both Front Wheel Bearings

washingtonnnn · #1 (**permalink**) 11-02-09, 08:33 PM

Hey everybody,

So, plain and simple, I need to replace both front wheel bearings. I've done some research, and I understand it isn't a very hard job to do yourself. A local auto shop wants $800 to do it, and I am a broke college student, and can not afford to do that. However, I am an engineering major, and I get off on fixing things, so I'd like to do it myself, and save money.

Some things I need to know:
-Is it necessary to purchase a torque wrench? Does it need to be set at a certain tightness? and if so, how tight?
-I have the basics down for replacing wheel bearings, but is there anything specific I need to know about my model, or it being front wheel drive?
-What tools will I need? I have a basic tool set, but it's more like a house-hold tool set, and it's about the size of a briefcase.

....Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Freakzilla · #2 (**permalink**) 11-02-09, 09:27 PM

If you're going to do your own repairs, you'll need a torque wrench.

**Ranger** · #3 (**permalink**) 11-02-09, 10:11 PM

And a 34mm socket.

00 Deville · #4 (**permalink**) 11-02-09, 10:19 PM

It's a pretty straight forward job. You will need a torque wrench for the Hub Nut the torque value is 110 ft lbs. You should be able to borrow a torque wrench and the large socket for the Hub Nut from your local auto parts store. Both Auto Zone and Advance have a loan a tool program.

You may also need a puller to separate the hub from the axle if it's stuck. I didn't need one when I did my 2000 but, if you do they should also be available to borrow under the loan a tool program.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ino...latLanding.jsp

Hub.gif

washingtonnnn · #5 (**permalink**) 11-02-09, 11:00 PM

Thanks a lot for the help man, I actually have a buddy with a torque wrench, and l've decided to invest in a decent tool box.

Do you really think it's necessary to get a puller? I mean, if it is stuck on there good, do you think it could be pryed off somehow w/out breaking anything?

Freakzilla · #6 (**permalink**) 11-03-09, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by washingtonnnn

Do you really think it's necessary to get a puller? I mean, if it is stuck on there good, do you think it could be pryed off somehow w/out breaking anything?

Maybe, but the puller makes it really easy.

**Ranger** · #7 (**permalink**) 11-03-09, 11:54 AM

If it is corroded in place, sometimes even a puller won't do it. Prying certainly won't. Have a friend hold the flat end of a ball peen hammer on the axle shaft. Now you get a big heavy mallet and give the ball end a good whack. That should sheer the bond.

quins90lac · #8 (**permalink**) 11-04-09, 02:39 AM

A BFH always makes any job go faster. No tool in any toolbox can replace a 5lb sledge. LMAO

Freakzilla · #9 (**permalink**) 11-04-09, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quins90lac

A BFH always makes any job go faster. No tool in any toolbox can replace a 5lb sledge. LMAO

We used to joke around in the army motor pool that the perfect tool box contained a graduated set of hammers.

submariner409 · #10 (**permalink**) 11-04-09, 11:15 AM

..................don't forget the Metric crescent wrench.

Freakzilla · #11 (**permalink**) 11-04-09, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by submariner409

..................don't forget the Metric crescent wrench.

While you're looking for that, get me a can of squelch and a box of grid squares.

**Ranger** · #12 (**permalink**) 11-04-09, 12:04 PM

Mechanics credo. If it doesn't fit, get a bigger hammer.

95caddykid · #13 (**permalink**) 11-04-09, 04:18 PM

i replaced both of mine last summer and il tell ya what! without the right tools its gonna suck! i believe on my deville the 3 bolts holding the hub in place were torx type fittings (i have no idea why gm tortures us with these odd ball sockets and such lol) as mentioned by the other gents in the thread getting the darn thing out is a PITA. i didnt have a puller ether. i used a method similar to rangers. when i finally removed it the stamped metal cap (i believe its blue in color) on the back of the old hub assembly broke off and got stuck. i just used a flat head screw driver and poked it out.

abs · #14 (**permalink**) 11-08-09, 12:01 PM

Not sure if you've already done this work, but I just performed the same repair on my '99 Deville. The three bolts are NOT torx bolts, they are regular 6 sided bolts. VERY IMPORTANT - you must use high quality sockets that are 6 point, not 12 point! I read up on this extensively on this site before doing the repair and I can say with absolute certainty that by using the 6 point sockets I had a much more secure fit than by using the 12 point setup. So in advance of the repair, I purchased two sockets (one deep and one normal) with the 6 point setup. Using them with various length extensions, I was able to remove the bolts without much trouble. You will absolutely want/need to torque these to spec after the repair is done. Good luck!

Andrew

washingtonnnn · #15 (**permalink**) 11-08-09, 05:03 PM

I haven't started doing this yet, and thanks for the info., I wasn't looking forward to buying another set of sockets...although my '97 might be different from your '99, I'm not gonna buy them unless I find out I need them for sure.

Once you removed the brake rotor, how difficult was the rest of the job? Is there anything I should expect while doing the job? How tight did you torque the bolts to?

thanks, jake