2001 Deville Radio Issue

mjfriend1 · #1 (**permalink**) 10-27-09, 11:16 PM

My Radio does not come on. Only displays clock. I have seen other threads with same issue and they advised to check amp and audio fuses which I did and both are good. If my amp is blown would it cause this issue or what else would cause this. Also how can I get to the amp. I saw it through the trunk mounted to the back seat but I cant seem to get to it. I assume you will need to take off the seat but cant find out how. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks

00 Deville · #2 (**permalink**) 10-27-09, 11:32 PM

Try pulling the DTC'c per the sticky at the top of this forum called "How to pull codes" The Radio does have the ability to set DTC's for faults, they should start with the letter "B".

ewill3rd · #3 (**permalink**) 10-28-09, 07:25 AM

The radio will have a U1000 in it, the DIC will refer to it as something weird, I'll try to remember it while I type.
(IRC?)

What happens is that the radio and Amp communicate on the data bus.
What you will see when you start the car is that if you turn the radio on it will come on and start to seem like it is working but there will be no sound, then it will go to the clock display and do nothing else for the rest of your ignition cycle.
The U1000 will set because the radio does not see the amp, if the amp is not there the radio is programmed to know it can't work so it just shuts off.
If power, ground, and communication are good to the amp connectors then the amp has failed and needs to be replaced.
Be sure to match the part number if you go salvage, they are pricey.

Yes you have to remove the back seat, it can be hard.
I might have time to post tips later, but maybe someone else can post them sooner?

mjfriend1 · #4 (**permalink**) 10-28-09, 08:50 AM

Thanks for the info. I checked the codes and IRC U1000 displayed and also No Amp Data was also in there. Dont know if that meant it cant read amp at all and maybe amp is off. Sorry not too familiar with all the terms. Now when i was in the trunk I did see a ground wire that was not grounded. The amp is mounted on the left side of the back seat but the ground wire was coming from the right side. Could that be the ground for the Amp? I could not see where the wire was coming from. If so where is a good grounding point for it? And if someone can give me tips for taking back seat off that would be perfect.

mjfriend1 · #5 (**permalink**) 10-28-09, 01:44 PM

I finally somewhat got the back seat off. I got the top part undone but cant seem to see how to get the bottom unlatched. Also I think the ground cord was going to something mounted on top inside of the trunk. Its a small black piece glued to a metal plate. The part # I think is 12450704 A0026 69883. Does that mean anything to anyone. Also the other end hooks up to a device mounted on the left side of the back seat. Its 2 devices mounted on top of each other. Says Delco on it so I assume it has something to do with radio system.

00 Deville · #6 (**permalink**) 10-28-09, 04:08 PM

The bottom of the seatback is attached with 2 bolts (see pic)... you will see them after you remove the seat bottom cushion. The seat bottom is removed by grabbing the front of the cushion and pulling it up. You will also need to disconnect the pass thru remote release cable.

Bottom.gif

Here's a picture of the amp... if you have a meter let me know and I will post the power and ground pins to check.

amp.gif

mjfriend1 · #7 (**permalink**) 10-28-09, 06:59 PM

Yes if you could post it. My neighbor has a meter to check it.

00 Deville · #8 (**permalink**) 10-28-09, 07:41 PM

I am assuming you have the non- Bose radio and do not have navigation (RPO code UX8).

On the amp you should have....

-Ground on pin A of of connector C1 (Black/White wire)

-Power on pin B of connector C1 (Red wire)

*Connector C1 is the connector with only 2 wires in it

mjfriend1 · #9 (**permalink**) 10-28-09, 09:42 PM

It is actually a BOSE Radio. Any difference in reading it

ewill3rd · #10 (**permalink**) 10-28-09, 10:33 PM

The trick to getting the back seat out is the 4 tabs across the top.

You'll need a flat bladed strong tool like a screwdriver. I use what I call a "trim tool" because it has a wider end on it and I have one a good length for the leverage.

Trick #1 is finding the tabs, they are inboard from the outside about 6 inches and then spaced evenly. There are 4 of them.
The next trick is releasing them, get the tool on them and inside the "lip", push straight down and then tug forward on the top edge of the seat.
Start at one end and work your way across releasing all 4. If you have trouble you can access them from the trunk and sometimes on tough ones I just get back there and use a longer trim tool to press the tabs down from the back if they get messed up, if you have to do that it is harder to describe but it can work.

One the top is released and the bolts are out of the frame at the bottom it comes right out.
Mind the seatbelts, the release cable in the center (if equipped) and don't scratch the door sills if you take the seat back out of the car, get help.
That will get you where you need to be.
Hope that helps.

00 Deville · #11 (**permalink**) 10-28-09, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mjfriend1

It is actually a BOSE Radio. Any difference in reading it

Yes, it does make a difference. The Bose system is an entirely different animal... the RPO code should be U57

On the amp you should have....

-Ground on pin A of of connector C1 (Black/White wire)

-Power on pin H of connector C1 (Red wire)

Connector.gif

mjfriend1 · #12 (**permalink**) 10-29-09, 02:12 PM

Thanks I finally got it out. Now on to testing. I tested the ground and it was good. Now for power.... I hook up red tip to power on connector and black to ground in car. I got no reading. I am not a electrician so let me know if I measured it incorrectly. I did ensure I was read voltage i checked ac and dc. I dint know which it should be. I also cut the car to on position too while I measured it. If I did everything correct then any thoughts on troubleshooting the power to the connector. Also is there anyway to check amp directly to see if its indeed good.

00 Deville · #13 (**permalink**) 10-29-09, 02:40 PM

To make sure that you have your meter set up correctly take the red lead and touch it to the positive terminal on the battery with the black lead on ground. You should read about 12 volts DC.

You should be able to read 12 volts DC on pin H of connector C1. If you don't read the 12 volts probe around in the connector on the other pins... looking for the missing voltage to make sure your on the right pin.

If you still cant find it... the voltage on pin H comes directly from the fuse in the rear fuse block (under the rear seat cushion) labeled "Audio Amp".

mjfriend1 · #14 (**permalink**) 10-29-09, 06:15 PM

Ok I measured it again and I did get 12V reading going to the amp. So based on that my amp is bad. Is that correct?

00 Deville · #15 (**permalink**) 10-29-09, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mjfriend1

Ok I measured it again and I did get 12V reading going to the amp. So based on that my amp is bad. Is that correct?

You have verified that both power and ground are good the only other 2 things that I can think of that would cause the radio and amp to not communicate with each other... would either be a failure of the Data Bus (Unlikely) between the Radio and Amp or a failure of the Amp (likely). At this point I would start looking for an Amp.