Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated!!

[Big L]

Originally Posted by Ranger

Check the purge line for coolant flow.

Not sure what a compression/vacuum kit is.

is the purge line the same as the overflow from the coolant reservoir?

I bought the sears compression/vacuum. Link below.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/ProductDi...atalogId=12605

[submariner409]

The reservoir, also called 'surge tank", has a 3/8" line coming from a nipple on the top side which runs to another nipple (a hollow bolt, actually) at the water pump cover area. This is a purge line and is used to constantly bleed a small amount of coolant back to the tank in order to "purge" air and gases from the coolant, preventing water pump cavitation. The main connection to the tank is a 3/4" line on the bottom which taps into the system to allow the tank to "float" and accept expanding coolant as the engine warms up. Few of these setups have the old overflow hose - if coolant blows off, it comes out the tank cap vents and simply runs down the side of the tank. If you do have a third, small, hose at the cap itself, that's an overflow drain. You need to look carefully and see what the tank hoses do.

That Sears kit is primarily for one-person brake bleeding, although it can be used to test vacuum operated sensors and solenoids for emissions checks and repair. It does not appear to be intended as a radiator test device although I suppose it could be adapted to work.

[Big L]

Originally Posted by submariner409

The reservoir, also called 'surge tank", has a 3/8" line coming from a nipple on the top side which runs to another nipple (a hollow bolt, actually) at the water pump cover area. This is a purge line and is used to constantly bleed a small amount of coolant back to the tank in order to "purge" air and gases from the coolant, preventing water pump cavitation. The main connection to the tank is a 3/4" line on the bottom which taps into the system to allow the tank to "float" and accept expanding coolant as the engine warms up. Few of these setups have the old overflow hose - if coolant blows off, it comes out the tank cap vents and simply runs down the side of the tank. If you do have a third, small, hose at the cap itself, that's an overflow drain. You need to look carefully and see what the tank hoses do.

That Sears kit is primarily for one-person brake bleeding, although it can be used to test vacuum operated sensors and solenoids for emissions checks and repair. It does not appear to be intended as a radiator test device although I suppose it could be adapted to work.

That answer was the sh_ _!!!! Thanks for the detailed response. After the cooling issues I head and with the performance loss, I purchased a block tester from AZone. The liquid was supposed to turn yellow, but the glass it come with had a yellow tint. So, I couldn't tell, it didn't appear to change colors. The kit's manual stated there was a way to check for Head Gasket Damage by I needed to tap into the manifold vacuum port. I did in fact buy it for the brakes, but if there are other advantages I figure I'll get my money's worth and learn a few things.

[Ranger]

The kit's manual stated there was a way to check for Head Gasket Damage by I needed to tap into the manifold vacuum port.

I can't see how that will check for a bad head gasket.

[Big L]

Originally Posted by Ranger

I can't see how that will check for a bad head gasket.

to partially quote the manual

"At idle, the vacuum pump gauge will fluctuate between normal and a low reading. The needle should drop sharply about 10" Hg from a normal reading and return each time the defective cylinder or cylinders reach firing position."

I know, and it states that it is not 100% fool proof, but apparently it should give some clue on what to rule in or out, right? Especially as the block tester I bought appeared good, but the glass had a slight hue to it.

[Ranger]

That is the last way I'd test for a head gasket. The best way is to make or buy an adapter that screws into the spark plug hole. Crank the engine by hand from the damper bolt to get the cylinder on TDC compression stroke and pump the cylinder with compressed air. Then watch for bubbles in the tank.

[Big L]

In the below blowout, is the purge line #31? Also, I do have three hoses coming from coolant reservoir. One at the cap, it's about 8" and connects to nothing. One at the top right which fits to hose #29 in below blowout. Finally the bottom left which was described above.

[submariner409]

The entire assembly contained within enclosure #26 is the purge line: Coolant runs from #28 to #29 and into the tank. (Not sure what #27 is - I have a Seville and the reservoir is on the driver's side....)

You are fortunate to have the #18 coolant overflow drain - in some models the blown off coolant runs down a channel around the reservoir tank cap and onto the fender well.

[Big L]

It is recommended to partially drain the system, is this necessary? The engine will be cold so will there be fluid in the line?

[Ranger]

The purge line is just about the highest part of the system so there may not be anything in it, but if there is you won't drain very much. I would not bother.

[Big L]

Originally Posted by Ranger

The purge line is just about the highest part of the system so there may not be anything in it, but if there is you won't drain very much. I would not bother.

good, that is what I was thinking.

[submariner409]

If any part of the cooling system piping, no matter how small, is below the level of the coolant in the reservoir it will have coolant in it.

You disconnect the top of the purge line, it is probably dry. You disconnect the bottom (at the water pump cover area) you had better get coolant or there's your problem: plugged purge line discharge nipple. Clean it out with a hand-twisted proper sized drill, with megarags under it - DO NOT get coolant down onto the EBCM or connector.