1999 deville noise problem - Page 2

**Ranger** · #16 (**permalink**) 03-25-09, 11:55 AM

Sounds like it may be a bad A/C clutch bearing.

maeng9981 · #17 (**permalink**) 03-25-09, 12:50 PM

Thank you, Ranger.

Is there any way that I can check for faulty a/c clutch bearing?

**Ranger** · #18 (**permalink**) 03-25-09, 03:21 PM

With the engine off, release the belt tension and spin the compressor pulley. If you feel or hear any roughness, the bearings are bad.

maeng9981 · #19 (**permalink**) 03-25-09, 10:54 PM

I tried to reach the belt tensioner, but I cannot figure out what I have to do first. It doesn't seem like I can reach it without removing nearby parts. Could you teach me the right procedure?

**Ranger** · #20 (**permalink**) 03-25-09, 11:04 PM

See the 1/2" square hole in the front of it? Put the drive lug from a 1/2" drive breaker bar in there and use the bar as a lever to release tension.

maeng9981 · #21 (**permalink**) 03-25-09, 11:44 PM

Thank you for the information, but I am struggling with reaching to the tensioner. There is not enough space between tensioner and r-134a line. Is there any part that I may remove before I reach the tensioner to make the job easy?

**Ranger** · #22 (**permalink**) 03-26-09, 12:44 PM

Sure you are looking at the tensioner and not the idler? Shouldn't be that hard to get at.

AMENCADDY · #23 (**permalink**) 03-26-09, 03:47 PM

it's that piece that has a 1/2" square that kinda sticks up so you can just fit a 1/2" drive rachet or breaker bar in there. then pull the rachet handle toward the front of the car with all your strength and you'll see the belt tension release so you can remove the belt easily. It is a heavy duty spring loaded thingy tho' so be careful - it could spring the breaker bar handle back and cause damage to you or the car.

maeng9981 · #24 (**permalink**) 03-27-09, 02:05 AM

Thanks for your replys. Now I have a clue and I'll definitely try it tomorrow. I'll post the result.

maeng9981 · #25 (**permalink**) 03-27-09, 10:34 PM

The tensioner didn't even move. Probably I have improper size tools(my breaker bar was too small).

Is it supposed to be flexible enough to move left and right while the engine is running(by the power of belt)? Or it should stay in its position under any circumstances other than releasing tension procedure?

AMENCADDY · #26 (**permalink**) 03-28-09, 12:44 AM

I'm baffled now! Describe what you think the tensioner and tensioner pulley are, please. The engine should never be running when you try to release the drive belt. that would be insanes, dude.

**Ranger** · #27 (**permalink**) 03-28-09, 12:49 AM

The tensioner is spring loaded and provides tension on the belt regardless of whether the engine is running or not. If your breaker bar is too short to give you enough leverage, put a (cheater) pipe over it to extend it.

AMENCADDY · #28 (**permalink**) 03-28-09, 05:19 AM

Here is a pic of what it should look like, and it IS a body building exercise to make it budge enough to release the drive belt. On my 92 Cad it took every ounce of strength I had to move it. Like Ranger said you probly need to lengthen the handle on your breaker bar with the "cheater" pipe.

maeng9981 · #29 (**permalink**) 03-29-09, 04:18 AM

Yes, I found the tensioner.

I just have really few tools and that is why I am struggling with this simple job. I now figured out what a "cheater bar" is and I definitely need it.

I will try again as soon as I get the cheater bar.

Thank you for all helps.

maeng9981 · #30 (**permalink**) 04-01-09, 03:42 AM

I tried today, succeeded to release the belt, spun the compressor pulley and couldn't feel any roughness or hear strange sound. I recorded a video of noise and I will upload it tomorrow(hoping it will help finding problem)