Lift points and some questions..

[thump_21]

Hello Caddie community,
Im about to swap the ckp sensors on my 2002 Cadillac Deville, i couldnt find the jack/lift points underneath the car, i know of the pinch welds underneath the car sides, but i couldnt find a good place to lift the car with a floor jack to place the jackstands under the pinch welds.
-Besides the jack points, my car's a/c isnt working right, it's blowing hot air instead of cold, i think the R-134a is down, since the car has been still most of it's life, dunno if this is common issue.
-My last question is there anyway of relearning the ckp sensors without a tech 2 device?

Sorry for the many questions but thank you for any answers.

[submariner409]

If you place jackstands under the side pinchwelds you'll crack the paint and anti-corrosion coat. Someone with a FSM can fill you in on the hoist pad points. You can lift the car with a floor jack under the center of the front of the engine cradle, but you must be very careful to insure that the pad of the jack is set so as to lock the cradle member into one of the pad crosscuts otherwise the jack will slip off the cradle and the pad will punch through the splash shield. The jackstands can then go at the outer cradle corners.

You need to do the CKP relearn with a Tech II.

[thump_21]

Thanks for the pinchweld warning, im a little confused on where to put the jackstands on the cradle corner, i don't know if im looking at the right thing but im assuming you mean the cradle as the front bar behind the huge plastic splash guard do i place the jackstands at the ends of that or is it the little square metal piece behind the the sides of the cradle?

[thump_21]

thanks for the pinchweld avoidance, but ive been trying to post the picture of where i should place the jackstand, which i assume is that little square cut metal on the side of the cradle (which is the long bar behind the splash guard right?)

[submariner409]

Good photos. Yes to both pictures. As I said, make sure the floor jack grips that cradle bar so it doesn't slip as the car raises in an arc on the jack arm........You can find the plastic "rivets" for the splash shield either at a Cadillac dealer or the "Help" rack at a big parts house. If you have the time, they're cheaper from www.gmotors.com or Lindsay Cadillac over there >>>>> (parts, Luke.) If you pry the rivet center stud up a tad then pull it out another 3/8" you might be able to save most of them.

Hope you have small hands and patience. The 2 CKP's are B = upper, and A= lower. New series, one gray and one black, made in Japan. The connectors only fit one way. Oil the O-ring and they slip in. 10mm bolt, I think.

[ewill3rd]

Never use the pinch welds in the front, I know the manual says too, but don't.
I have seen it bend fenders even.

Use that large rail about 20 inches inboard or something on the engine cradle, both to lift and for your jack stands. The lower control arm is a good place to use a jack for lifting.
You can use the center of the cradle as you indicated in your first pic, The second pic looks like you'll be close to a connection point for the lower control arm, you can use that fore/aft rail just to the left of your arrow if you want for your jackstand.

[thump_21]

Thanks for the advice guys, can't wait to do this job.

[ewill3rd]

Oh, it is okay to use them in the back. The powertrain weight in the front is just too much for them to handle in the front though.
I usually use the big floor beam inboard of the pinch weld when I set those on a lift.

[thump_21]

I got the car lifted but getting to the ckp sensors is a real PITA, there's a silver shiled thick wire running across the car near the oil adapter blocking the sensors, Ive tried disconnecting the oil adapter but the wire hooked to it (oil pressure level sensor?) is hidden behing the motor mount, this thing is turning to be more harder than i thought...

[submariner409]

...................Told you about small hands...........even the dealer techs will tell you that this is no picnic. That's why the dealer replacement cost for both with no warranty coverage is on the order of $400.

[ewill3rd]

If you lift the car from the body frame behind the cradle as I described, you can lower the front of the cradle and get a lot more room to work.

[thump_21]

Originally Posted by submariner409

...................Told you about small hands...........even the dealer techs will tell you that this is no picnic. That's why the dealer replacement cost for both with no warranty coverage is on the order of $400.

I thought i had small hands oh well
I tried taking the oil adapter off too but i dont think i put it in right again it's started spilling oil when i started the car, this day has gone from bad to worse for me. Now im really nervous.
I guess that's what i get for being a green mechanic.

[submariner409]

If you removed the oil filter adapter it takes an O-ring or two upon replacement: Dealer parts, and O-rings need to be replaced because they take a "set" and once removed, generally the old one will never seal again.

Don't get antsy and jury-rig things. Go back and put it all together carefully.

[ewill3rd]

It is a really tight spot, with the frame in place you'll have some real issues getting in there.
Removing the filter housing is a good idea, just use new seals when you go back together. Sorry for the mess it is making.