Inside Drivers Door Panel removal 99 Concours

[rpgibbs]

The drivers power windows continues to be a problem on our 99 concours and I am ready to go to step 2. I have replaced the master window switch with a new GM part (now the second time) but the window continues to stick about a third of the way down and then I can't raise the window without physically pulling it up with the switch held down. I need to remove the inside panel to see what is catching or if there is a broken roller or maybe a crunched Geico (we live in Florida and they are everywhere). Anybody have the procedure to remove the inside door panel? Thanks

[David Jenison]

To remove the front door panel, remove the plastic surround from the inside door handle. It contains the seat switches and door lock switch. It is held in place by four pressure clips, so you should be able to pull straight out. Remove the wires to the switches. Next remove the window switches by inserting a small, flat screwdriver under the forward end by the window lockout switch. Carefully pry upward. Remove the wires if you want to make removing the panel easier.
The triangular panel on the inside of the rearview mirror will need to be carefully pulled inward but NOT REMOVED. You might be able to do this with just your hand. Remove the white/red marker/courtesy light at the back side of the door panel. A small flat screw driver at the back side should release it. Remove the wire. There are two phillips screws that need to be removed. One is in the opening where the window switch panel was, the other is behind where the red/white light was. After those two are removed, grasp the door pull handle and pull STRAIGHT UP. Don’t try to pull inward.
Don't forget, you will be messing around in the area of the side airbag!

DAVE
'97 concours

[rpgibbs]

I took the 99 Concours in today to a reputable body shop here and was given an estimate of $750 to fix the window problem. It was diagnosed as a bad motor/modulator on the drivers side power window. Is this a reasonable estimate to fix the problem? Also, when I get the inside door panel off can I replace the motor/modulator myself without any specialized tools? Does anyone know of a blow-up schematic of the inside of the door and what the GM part # is for the motor/modulator? You help and suggestions will be appreciated.

rpgibbs@hotmail.com

[rpgibbs]

I am having 2nd thoughts about doing this myself. Anybody have any recommendations about a reputable body shop/repair center in the Naples/Fort Myers area that could do this for less than the $750 already quoted. Thanks

[rpgibbs]

Decided to remove the inside door panel described above and it worked without any hitches. Turned out the Solenoid/motor that drives the big sprocket behind the steel panel covering the inside of the door was intermittently frozen up so that is the problem. I called 2 Local Cadillac dealers and got different part #'s (there is no number on the motor I removed). One # is GM 22143946 and the other is GM 22143945. They (the dealers) were not sure which was for the drivers window and which was for the passenger window. Can anyone tell me if these numbers are indeed for the power window motors and which is the correct GM # for the drivers door window? Thanks

rpgibbs@hotmail.com

[LCLCLC]

I've answered you under your other posting.

Basically, take the motor with you to Autozone. Seimens motor, about $60.

[Snyder81]

Originally Posted by rpgibbs

I am having 2nd thoughts about doing this myself. Anybody have any recommendations about a reputable body shop/repair center in the Naples/Fort Myers area that could do this for less than the $750 already quoted. Thanks

I'm glad to see you did the work yourself. I've had an intermittent window problem in my 96 Concours for almost 3 years and finally fixed it this past weekend.

Symptoms: Window would sometimes roll down and sometimes back up, but when the window was all the way up, the motor would keep grinding if I held the window button.

I finally decided to open the door and figure out what was going on. In my 96 the door was easy to remove. I simply removed two plastic trim pieces from the big door handle and then removed the two screws that attach the handle to the door. I also used a flat blade screwdriver to *gently* push in the retaining clip for the window switch panel. After those were out, I disconnected all visible electrical connectors as well as removing the small white light on the bottom of the armrest. I also has to pull on the piece of trim that covers where the outside mirror connects to release the rivet that holds it in place. After that, I simply pulled up and out on the door and the entire door panel came off. Then I removed as much of the water/splash sheet to gain access to the window motor. The window motor just had 3 bolts that I removed and then pulled the motor out. After reading on here, I should have taped the window in place...I guess I'm lucky it didn't fall down and break.

The new motor cost $58 including tax at Schuck's and the entire project only took a couple hours. Now that I've done it, I could probably do the job again in 30 minutes. $750 is a major rip-off to do this job. It reminds me of when the shop quoted me $1200 to fix a blower motor and it only costs me about $250 for the part and engine moving tool and about an hour of time. And I had no prior experience.

As always, I wish I'd taken pictures to post online but I forgot