1997 Deville Buzzing Noise

bobs_caddy · #1 (**permalink**) 03-12-07, 03:39 PM

Hi all ....
I have a buzzing noise coming from the front end. The noise sounds like an older dried out speedometer or cruise control cable. The pitch of the noise is directly related to the speed of the vehicle and begins at around 15-20 MPH.

Buzzing will not occur when sitting in Park and revving the engine.

I have down shifted at say 35 MPH from Drive to 3rd to see if the pitch of the buzzing increased. It did not.

Trans fluid level checks fine.

The buzzing noise seemed to appear overnight.

At speed, I can pull the wheel quickly to the right for a split second and make the buzzing slightly louder. The buzzing does not get louder when pulling the wheel quickly to the left.

Are there any cables that could be dry on the 97 Deville? I've searched this forum for various things that could relate to this but no luck.

Thanks in advance for any help - Bob

**Ranger** · #2 (**permalink**) 03-12-07, 05:54 PM

Is the noise coming from the cabin or outside? If inside, it may be a blower motor or asperator fan.

bobs_caddy · #3 (**permalink**) 03-12-07, 06:59 PM

It comes from under hood and varies in pitch (tone) depending on the speed of the vehicle. It starts at around 20 mph and goes away around the same slowing down. Driving me NUTS!

**Ranger** · #4 (**permalink**) 03-12-07, 07:39 PM

Hmm, I'd start listening to pulleys (idler, tensioner,P/S, alternator, water pump tensioner) with a stethoscope or a length of hose and isolate it.

bobs_caddy · #5 (**permalink**) 03-12-07, 08:24 PM

Thanks Ranger for your input

I wish it was that simple. Problem is, I can't reproduce the noise sitting still. It begins around 20 mph and ends at around 20 mph. Now I just need to convince my wife to ride under the hood for a quick jaunt around the block!

**Ranger** · #6 (**permalink**) 03-12-07, 08:59 PM

Oh I missed that. In that case it is likely trans or axle related.

Destroyer · #7 (**permalink**) 03-13-07, 12:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobs_caddy

Hi all ....
I have a buzzing noise coming from the front end. The noise sounds like an older dried out speedometer or cruise control cable. The pitch of the noise is directly related to the speed of the vehicle and begins at around 15-20 MPH.

Buzzing will not occur when sitting in Park and revving the engine.

I have down shifted at say 35 MPH from Drive to 3rd to see if the pitch of the buzzing increased. It did not.

Trans fluid level checks fine.

The buzzing noise seemed to appear overnight.

At speed, I can pull the wheel quickly to the right for a split second and make the buzzing slightly louder. The buzzing does not get louder when pulling the wheel quickly to the left.

Are there any cables that could be dry on the 97 Deville? I've searched this forum for various things that could relate to this but no luck.

Thanks in advance for any help - Bob

Listen closely the car is telling you "I'm a piece of crap.........sell me now". Trust me on this.

Tonkin · #8 (**permalink**) 03-13-07, 12:58 AM

If it gets louder when turning right and quieter when turning left I would check the front right wheel bearing. Could be the left one but it is usually the unloaded bearing. They do give a low growl or Buzz when they start to go bad.

bobs_caddy · #9 (**permalink**) 03-13-07, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tonkin

If it gets louder when turning right and quieter when turning left I would check the front right wheel bearing. Could be the left one but it is usually the unloaded bearing. They do give a low growl or Buzz when they start to go bad.

Thanks for that Tonkin, that makes alot of sense. Come to think of it, I do get a slight vibration from the right when slowing from high speeds as well.

It's time too for brake pads and the rotors need turning. This could be nice timing indeed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Destroyer

Listen closely the car is telling you "I'm a piece of crap.........sell me now". Trust me on this.

I had a nice retort for this child but thought it senseless to stoop to her level - go outside and play now little girl

ilovemysportycadilla · #10 (**permalink**) 03-23-07, 11:25 AM

Hey all,
Having the same type of problem with my 2001 STS, the low growl that increases with speed, thinking its the wheel bearing. How do you replace one? Is that something a DIYer could do, or should I have someone do it? I can tell its coming from the front and it sounds like its coming from the driver side, but how do you tell?

bobs_caddy · #11 (**permalink**) 03-23-07, 12:48 PM

>> Is that something a DIYer could do, or should I have someone do it? <<

Depends I guess on how handy you are with a wrench

Watch EBay for a set of manuals for your year Caddy. I'm still looking for mine but do have a Hayne's (Chilton) which tells you alittle. BMasters quoted me 200 bucks to do the front pads with rotor turn. Nothing more. I can imagine double that or more for them to do the bearings. It pays to be able to wrench if your willing to do the work. Having those service manuals would have been nice right about now.

Anyhow, being short on cash these past few paydays, I've not gotten round to pulling the front end apart on our '97 to have a look. We have 3 mechanics in the family, one with Cad experience and all give thumbs up to the bearing making the noise. Thanks again to Tonkin for the lead in that direction

Will post here after I get that work done and tell of the results.

fellinlovewithA_lac · #12 (**permalink**) 03-23-07, 01:15 PM

I have a 1996 Sedan Deville, and i too had that same problem a month ago.
At certain speed you could hear a hissing kind of sound. That sound was due to an power steering fluid,so i changed it with new fluid. My problem was solved. Good thing i did change fluid otherwise ignoring it would of cost me to get a new powersteer pump.!!

**Ranger** · #13 (**permalink**) 03-23-07, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ilovemysportycadilla

Hey all,
Having the same type of problem with my 2001 STS, the low growl that increases with speed, thinking its the wheel bearing. How do you replace one? Is that something a DIYer could do, or should I have someone do it? I can tell its coming from the front and it sounds like its coming from the driver side, but how do you tell?

Do a series of "S" turns like a NASCAR driver warming his tires. The offending bearing will growl louder when loaded and get quieter when unloaded. Left turns load the right bearing and right turns load the left bearing.

outguerra · #14 (**permalink**) 03-24-07, 01:34 AM

I will try the power steerimg fluid change I have a 2000 deville and i also get that whistle starting aound 15 mph it ges away when the speed incrases but it drives me nuts. if anyone has moreimput please share it thanks.

DevilleMN · #15 (**permalink**) 03-25-07, 11:23 AM

Hi All,

I have gotten so much good info from this site. I will try to add to it as a thank you.

Same noise was heard when I test drove my '94 Deville before I bought it. The noise was almost inaudible and not having much of any experience with FWD cars, what did could it be, maybe normal.

Put about a thousand miles on it noting the buzz was getting worse, 20 mph and up, fading when turning left at speed, more noticeable to the right. Had to be the wheel bearings or transaxle. Turned out to be the left bearing hub. To be on the safe side, both hubs and transaxles are now new. If the one went the right was not far behind in wear.

Did it myself after reviewing any and all references available on the Net, and there is a lot.

Depending on skill level and patients with the right tools it can be done. Of note, a good wheel puller is essential. Backing the transaxle spines out of the hubs is a task. Getting the hub out of the mounting bracket is easy if air tools are available. If not, one has to be clever. I used a bolt and nut with a washer. The bolt has to be two inches longer than the mounting bolt for the hub with a hex head and not a cap head, same metric threads.

A little tough to explain unless your there or have been there. I'll try. One hole in the wheel mounting plate is large than the other two. By using this hole, insert the bolt, add the washer, then the nut and then thread the bolt into the mounting bracket, secure. Now back the nut to the washer to the mounting plate, as it is now pushing the plate, a few turns the hub breaks away. Now a screw driver can be wedged behind the hub, between mounting bracket -- Done. The wheel speed coil will more than likely separate from the bearing. Chisel it out. Wire brush the rust. Reassemble.

The transaxles, well that is another story. A slide hammer, three feet of 3/8" steel cable and two cable clamps will do the job. Make a loop to go around the axle cup, secure with the clamps, one close to the cup, the other at the cable ends, apply the hammer slide behind the second clamp-bang, bang. Not a good idea to pry against the tranny case-fragile!

I will say things went fairly well with one adult beverage moment. The cv spines into the differential did not exactly match, had to apply too much force to insert on the passenger side. After an hour of filling it seated, but ones mind goes Oh-Oh.

[Do not remove both axles at the same time, do one then the other. The differential will most likely drop. Don't even think about it.]

The cost:
Hubs; $110 each. Transaxles $70 each. Sweat, don't know, the garage temp was only 50 degrees.

Was not going to buy the car, it is pretty, but too many miles [190,000] until the owner started to tell me what had been fixed or replaced.

Transmission replaced; 80,000 mi.
Engine; 120,000
AC comp; 150,000
Water pump; 180,000
Two new tires; 185,000
And the list went on including complete exterior detailing with new hood and various front end parts after he killed a deer with it. Summer of '06. Show room shine.

After all that investment why sell the car? The retired owner said he had just bought a four wheeler and just wanted a nice pickup to haul it around. OK-Sold.

Great car. Lucky find.

Good Luck!