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Car Cleaning/Detailing Thread

19K views 59 replies 30 participants last post by  Submariner409 
#1 ·
So I figured I would start a thread regarding washing and maintaining our vehicles.

I am no pro with the products I used but I do spend 3-4 hours a week cleaning inside and out.

I used Meguiar's ultimate wash and wax. Apparently it has some wax in it and it definitely seems to sud more and shine more than some of my old turtle wax car champoos. Seems a bit expensive though. Anyone have any recommendations or suggestions?
 
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#2 · (Edited)
I have been using a lot of the Adams Polishes car care products, Their car wash shampoo, Car wash pad for the upper half of the car, Detail spray & Great white microfiber drying towel that can be used to accelerate drying the car is a life saver for me with the hard water here even though I am using a 3 stage filter system
"2 autogeek filters and a Mr clean gun with filter" for washing my ATS.

I use a separate microfiber sponge for the lower half of the car and wheels since those are the parts of the car that tend to get the dirtiest.
A 3rd sponge just for the exhaust tips to.
Double bucket washing method.

MetroVac Blaster Sidekick Dryer to blow most of the water off the car prior to applying the Detail spray and hand drying with the Adams Polishes great white microfiber.

303 Aerospace protectant on all leather, vinyl & plastic.

Seltzer Water for any minor interior stains.
Woolite dark extra care for the GM ebony, charcoal colored carpets and floor mats.

Napa Glass cleaner on windows.
Staples screen cleaner for auto dimming mirrors and CUE.

The GM red & gold stain removers with the stain application chart, GM Vinyl, leather, plastic cleaner are all really good if and when you can find them
Same with the GM Odor Eliminator that is hvac system safe.

My b.f. does the waxing with 3M synthetic wax.

I have the Adams Polishes Butter Wax but it hasnt been nice enough to try it yet
Along with the Adams Glass cleaner & Microfiber glass towels might try them today or tomorrow.
 
#3 ·
I like keep my cars looking good and also well protected from the elements. I do not use wax products, but rather I use paint sealants. Waxes certainly make a car look good, but they are very volatile and will easily dissipate within a week or two; thus, necessitating frequent waxing to keep up appearances, while offering very little protection. Sealants, on the other hand, will also make the car look very good (maybe not as deep a look as can be gotten with a good, expensive wax), but will usually last 6-9 months in terms of water-beading, looks and protection. IMO, the sealants' durability, protection, shine and ease of application (usually wipe on, wipe off) make them a natural choice.

I can't make any suggestions because I have been a Zaino user for the last 14 years and haven't tried any of the other and newer sealants. Nonetheless, there are many very good brands out there for your review and research.

As we have "treated/coated" leather in our cars, using fancy and expensive leather care products is usually a waste of time as they don't readily penetrate the urethane coating that is on the leather. Maybe yes when the leather is getting worn, but not when new. So cleaning our leather is best achieved with mild soap and water (or something like a 10-15% solution of Woolite)-rinsing and drying thoroughly; or if you must use a leather cleaning product, Lexol is good, as are many others on the market. However, using leather conditioners won't do anything unless the leather is wearing and the coating is gone. Most of you probably don't believe this, so I suggest that you do some research to draw your own conclusions.

Actually, the same applies to all your vinyl cleaning...soap and water, period. However, I do use Aeroprotectant 303 as I don't find it too glossy and it does afford UV protection.

For glass I use Invisible Glass with crumpled up newspaper...squeaky clean. I'm sure there are many other good glass cleaning products out there, but whatever you choose, newspaper is a must.

Enough said....
 
#5 ·
This sealer, is it a spray and wipe away kind of thing? Also, why the newspaper for the glass? Im curious. I usually use a microfiber towel with windex for the console and windows, but now that I have tints I am going to have to get an amonia free cleaner.
 
#7 ·
The sealers usually come either as liquid that you dab onto an applicator (MF or cotton covered sponge), or as a liquid that is in a spray bottle. Apply, let dry (could be 30 minutes or more) and then wipe off.

First, Invisible Glass has no ammonia. I started using LG and newspaper when I went onto the BMW detailing forum and have been happy with results ever since. The newspaper leaves no lint and the print is supposed to have some kind of window waxing action (I think). BTW, all my cars have had tinting and IG never harmed them (13 years on one car, 8 on another).

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Newspaper is an old trick for windows, as well as extra large coffee filters. On tint and dash surfaces use only mild soap and water. Microfiber is safe to dry with. Zaino has many types of products. I use their liquid polish in a bottle z5 swirl remover on dark paint followed up with z2 or their newer equivalent for high shine. They do have a spray shine enhancer along with every other type of product incl. clay bar etc.

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I loved this product, as most guys after a day at the track had to scrap the rubber from their paint, mine would just wipe right off. Nothing likes to stick to zaino.
BTW, Zaino does have an AIO (All In One) product: Wipe on, wipe off, get at least 3 months of shine and protection. There are other similar products out there.
 
#8 ·
Newspaper used to have oil based ink which acted as a polish on glass, newspaper ink of today is not oil based I believe it's soy. Eitherway newspaper and coffee filters have no lint and are very absorbant. Invisible glass is very good to use along with many other non ammonia based cleaners. I still prefer soap and water mix to do full interior along with windows, makes it easy.
 
#9 · (Edited)
If you like Zaino try Duragloss same product just much cheaper. (I started using Zaino in 1996 loved it then found out DG was the same)
If you are washing your car every week there is no need to get out the buckets and hose. I started using waterless and rinse less about a year ago and now very rarely get out buckets. I can wash 2 cars and a truck in a hour if I don't need to scrub the wheel and tires.
Optimum No Rinse is a great rinse less and Meguiars D115 Rinse Free Express Wash & Wax is a nice waterless.
 
#10 ·
Exterior (paint): Been a Zaino user for more than 10 years. It has one of the best full line products out there. It's been easiest paint protection product I've used. I'll always go Zaino.

Tires: TUF SHINE is by far the best tire cleaner/dressing product there is. Used it for last three years and will not change. Easy to apply, no mess, reasonably priced and gives the ideal tire look!!! Shout out to Bob at TS!!!

Wash: Sorry, no recommendation here. I rent and don't have best resources for wash. Just use Kwik Trip no brush wash (does clean underside).

Interior: 303 Aerospace Protectant does fantastic appearance and protection on everything but carpet. And always vacuum the heck for all other dirt.

Glass: No preference here. Used most typical glass cleaners and put little money and effort here. Zaino Gloss Enhancer ends up putting a fine shine on the outside.

Always ready to try anything, but these products serve me fine!!!
 
#11 ·
Curious, does anyone use any of those attachments that go between a garden hose and a nosel, to dilute soap into the water and give you a soapy mix? I see some of them for like 30-40 dollars, and I figure at that price they are probably no good, though that is just an assumption.

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Do any of you have any experience with Zaino's Z-8 Grand Finale Spray Seal? I was thinking of purchasing it and trying out out after my weekly or bi-monthly summer washes for some extra shine. Black is such a b****h to keep shiny.
 
#14 ·
...Do any of you have any experience with Zaino's Z-8 Grand Finale Spray Seal? I was thinking of purchasing it and trying out out after my weekly or bi-monthly summer washes for some extra shine. Black is such a b****h to keep shiny.
Grand Finale Spray is truly amazing. Spray some on a panel and wipe on with a MF. No need to buff as it self-dries (cures) to a great shine and the smoothest surface feel there is. May not last too long, but really cool stuff while it is doing its thing.

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After having this recommended by an amazing detailer here in Dallas, I swear by this stuff for hand washing:

http://www.amazon.com/32oz-Optimum-...372&sr=8-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+car+wash



I'd be happy to discuss my method with this stuff if anyone is interested.
Please do. My concern about using such products is that they may leave light scratches on the car if the surface dirt is rubbed into the car's surface.
 
#18 ·
Hey HD, most interested in your Black Fire write up. Like you, I've been a long time Zaino user. Zaino was actually around the corner from me when I lived in NJ, but I got into it from the BMW forums. Anyway, as I age, I've been looking for similar sealant processes that would be easier on this old bod and that would maintain a good shine and reasonable durability. BTW, thank goodness I'm not as O/C about detailing my cars as I used to be. I have bought Black Fire to give the newer sealants a try, but a couple of things are holding me back. A few months ago I Zainoed (topping off with Zaino Clearcoat and Grand Finale for an unreal finish) both of my cars and just can't bring myself to try the new stuff until some of the Zaino protection/shine wears off...which, as you know, can take quite a long time. Furthermore, I plan to clay (another process that I have to get up for) before using the BF.

I'll probably do my Z4 first as it is merlot (maroonish) in color and should just about "glow" after the BF application. The ATS is a very unpopular color (wife's drive and I let her choose the color to keep her happy,) Glacier Blue, and most likely won't show the shine as well as the darker Z4. I'm sort of getting used to the color as I haven't seen any in my neck of the woods in SE FL, and the color doesn't show dirt (not that I let the car get that dirty). And lastly, as I look and touch the ATS' finish, I get the impression that the surface is very "hard" and "ceramic-like," especially when compared to my 2005 Z4 and the traded-in 2002 325. Anyone else get this impression?
 
#22 ·
Hey HD, most interested in your Black Fire write up. Like you, I've been a long time Zaino user. Zaino was actually around the corner from me when I lived in NJ, but I got into it from the BMW forums. Anyway, as I age, I've been looking for similar sealant processes that would be easier on this old bod and that would maintain a good shine and reasonable durability. BTW, thank goodness I'm not as O/C about detailing my cars as I used to be. I have bought Black Fire to give the newer sealants a try, but a couple of things are holding me back. A few months ago I Zainoed (topping off with Zaino Clearcoat and Grand Finale for an unreal finish) both of my cars and just can't bring myself to try the new stuff until some of the Zaino protection/shine wears off...which, as you know, can take quite a long time. Furthermore, I plan to clay (another process that I have to get up for) before using the BF.
I definitely would not waste the time effort and product if my car was Zainoed! Wait till its time to redo.
 
#19 ·
EricEst1978 said:
After having this recommended by an amazing detailer here in Dallas, I swear by this stuff for hand washing: http://www.amazon.com/32oz-Optimum-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B000E9TS6O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395536372&sr=8-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+car+wash I'd be happy to discuss my method with this stuff if anyone is interested.
I concur that ONR is an excellent product. I have been using it for a few years. I normally shop at detailedimage.com which also features great how-to detailing articles. Make sure to read up on the proper method for washing using a rinseless product such as ONR.
 
#21 ·
I have not detailed the ATS yet as I only got just before winter but will be doing so in a month or so
However what I have learned over the years is not to touch black and leave it to professionals
My friend who makes a living detailing cars will be doing it and here' what he uses for black

Washing
Sunlight + Zep's Citrus Degreaser
AutoGlym Active Insect Remover
AutoGlym Intensive Tar Remover
AutoGlym Engine and Machine Cleaner
Various wash mitts, sponges
Stoner's Invisible Glass
Riccardo Blue Clay
Elegance Waterless Wash
Elegance Clay Lube
Elegance Wheel Cleaner
Iron-X
Various brushes


Correction
Meguiar's #105
Meguiar's #205
Various Microfibers
Flex Rotary 3403
Porter Cable XP7424
White Lake Country CCS pad
Black Lake Country CCS pad
Red Lake Country CCS pad
Blue Lake Country CCS pad


Protection
Black Fire Gloss Enhancing Polish
BlackFire Wet Diamond all Paint Sealant
Zymol Concours
Wolf's Body Wrap (wheels)
Elegance Engine Dressing
Aquapel
Black Wow
303 Aerospace Protectant
AutoGlym Leather Cleaner and Balm
Chemical Guys New Car Smell
Poorboy's World Bold 'N Bright



And my car after he was done


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I personally use Autoglym products exclusively and I get great results , I prefer waxes for my summer only cars and sealant for my DD
here is my old E36 M3 after detailing this is a 1999 with original paint

Check out the shine
End of summer detail



Spring detail


 
#24 ·
Meguiars Ultimate Wash and Wax is a good product and goes well with the other Ultimate series products. I use Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax and Ultimate Quick Wax. It drys without a white residue and comes off easily. It looks and lasts as long as Zaino at a fraction of the cost and easy availability. I have tried them all, and for ease, cost and durability I go with the Meguiars stuff.
 
#25 ·
Like Max I'm also a Meguire's Ultimate line (wash/wax/detailer) user and 303 for the interior surfaces and tires. Not trying to compare with other products as to what is better just what I use and am very pleased with and is easy to use with great results. I garage the car at home and at work, clean/wax/detail often so long lasting protection due to elements is not a priority.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Exterior, no-rinse method (estimated completion time: 10-15 minutes)

1. Wait for a hot day with direct sun. (It will dry faster this way.)
2. Dig my hose out of the back garden. Knock most of the mud off the sprayer end.
3. Quick rinse, top to bottom.
4. Find a rag in the garage with the least oil and paint on it.
5. Wipe car clean in a vigorous, circular motion. For droppings or tar, use Dawn detergent. Find a scratchy spot of the rag with dried paint, and apply plenty of elbow grease.

When done, it should be so shiny at this point that you can almost tell there is something in the reflection when you stand next to your car! Admire the "fun house mirror" effect the swirls have in sunlight.

Interior

1. Open all doors, trunk and hood.
2. Using the same rag as before, wipe and dry around the doors and seals. If you haven't already, now is the time to re-fold the rag to a clean area, and grab another 6-pack.
3. The rag should still be moist enough to wipe off the worst of the smoke haze from the inside glass. If the nicotine is persistent, yell at one of the kids to bring you that Easy-Off from under the sink. Hit the inside windshield with the oven cleaner, and make sure to over spray onto the dash. Wait 5 minutes and wipe down. This does an excellent job of maintaining the anti-glare properties of the dashboard vinyl.
4. Lift the front edge of each floor mat and carefully sweep debris up under it. After some time, you may notice a hump of gravel, sand, pine needles, dead leaves and candy bar wrappers form. Just spread it evenly under the mat and enjoy the soft, cushion-y feel.
5. You're almost done! Give the seats a quick swipe, and in particular even out the coffee and soda stains on the leather surfaces. For chocolate or PB&J (or grease from when you changed the transmission in the old Z-28 and then sat in the Cadillac), just use some more Dawn.
6. Provide weeks of freshness in your like-new ATS by tucking a few dryer sheets (used is fine) up under the passenger seat.
 
#30 ·
Well done, DD. I think the only thing you forgot to put into your excellent car detailing protocol was to be sure to drop the rag several times in the driveway gravel to ensure better swirls...BTW, really doesn't matter whether the rag is dry or wet, although I do find that a dry rag is more efficient.
 
#31 ·
My routine thus far has been:

1) Pull up to Kwik Trip car wash
2) Insert credit card
3) select Ultimate wash
4) proceed into car wash

It makes me feel like I ran over a magical unicorn.


Not much else you can do for washing a car in the winter here in WI and even car washes shut down at 10 degrees so you can go a number of weeks without a wash and lots of salt build up.
Over the summer I will just take it to a professional here.
 
#32 ·
So I am extremely new to this whole detailing thing. By new I clearly mean I've never done it before! I have read all the posts in this thread and know the various products that everyone uses, my problem is I don't even know where to begin or the steps I should follow, the do's or the don'ts. My ats is black diamond, and I live in Northern Ontario where road salt is very prominent. Not sure if I should use a sealer or wax. Right now all I'm doing is washing it with a turtle wax soap and drying it off on a weekly bases, even though it could use it daily! Ha! Any hints/ pointers/ procedures would help me out a ton! Thanks! Btw loving the Cadillac forum, check things out every day!
 
#33 ·
You're lucky its Black Diamond since the metallic hides flaws.

Aside from actual cleaning, which is a temporary condition, the top priority is to reduce wear and tear on the paint, which is a permanent condition.

Wear is reduced by limiting the amount of contact with the paint while detailing and minimizing the damage from the contact that does occur.

Start cleaning by dislodging as much dirt as you can with your water source.

Then use two buckets to wash. One for the "suds" and a separate one for frequent rinsing of whatever you wash with to prevent dirt it has picked up from being dragged across the paint. Until you have two buckets, you should frequently rinse it out with your water source but obviously that takes longer and wastes water.

Use a high quality washing liquid. I have not found any really good ones sold by a brick and mortar store. What you want is something that loosens the dirt but also is extremely slippery so loosened dirt slides easily on a layer of the "soap". The more foam the better since it helps suspend dirt away from the surface. This is one area where the really good stuff is actually cheaper than the B&M store stuff. I use Chemical Guys Citruswash+gloss but believe there are numerous products just as good. You need just a cap full for 5 gallons of water, which makes these kinds of products very cheap per wash, despite being expensive per ounce. The only problem is I don't know anywhere to get the good ones except for online stores like Detailed Image or Auto Geeks.

Use a high quality mitt that is very soft and pulls the dirt into itself instead of dragging it across the paint, and rinse constantly.

A lot of damage is done drying a car. Its normal for small amounts of dirt to be pulled from cracks and crevices during the final rinse. If drying by contact, the last pass will be over essentially dry paint and grinding that dirt into the paint. If you contact dry, use a thick nap microfiber. That will pull much of the dirt into itself to minimize abrasion of the paint. To completely eliminate drying damage, get a high powered air dryer (invented for large pet groomers and then souped up and re-tasked for detailers). The powerful ones run in the three hundreds up but have a very long life for DIY detailers where it won't be used continuously like a dog groomer would.
 
#36 ·
I have my lawyer screen all my posts BEFORE I post them. I used to pass them by him after the fact like you do. But then I had to do a lot of what you just did (except for real). LoL

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Or you could use an electric leaf blower for drying. That works really well got me.
Yes you can. I'd say a leaf blower is better (for the paint) than contact drying.

But they don't blow filtered air or heated air or have attachments to speed the drying process. The last two are very nice. I see it sort of analogous to using a manual toothbrush versus an electric one, with contact drying being like whatever Don probably does to his teeth. Zing!

Blow drying takes different skills and one is getting rid of the micro drops formed when the original full size drops get blasted by high velocity air. Being smaller, they self dry into micro waterspots failrly quickly. Heat and focused air help avoid that.

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Since there is a forum here just for detailing, etc. I'm moving this thread there.
 
#39 ·
Hoosier Daddy, I have a hose/floor drain right in my garage so to eliminate paint contact using the two bucket method would rinsing with the hose be better?
If I'm understanding the question, rinsing the mitt with fresh water COULD be better than a rinse bucket. The rinse bucket will have increasing amounts of very fine dirt suspended in the water. On the other hand, squeezing and releasing the mitt while submerged will get more trapped dirt from the car out of it than rinsing in flowing water. And thoroughly rinsing the mitt with a hose would take longer than dunk, swish, squeeze, squeeze, swish in a bucket.
 
#38 · (Edited)
Go to www.autogeek.net and get their detailing CD. Pour a decent bourbon and water and kick back for a half hour.

and take a look at the clever insert for drywall mud buckets at www.gritguard.com . Worth their weight in gold. You will absolutely flip when you see the amount of GRIT in the washwater bucket. Use a GOOD sheepswool mitt for washing and (edit) swish/squeeze in the wash water bucket (edit) often.

You'll sink several hundred dollars into a basic car and paint maintenance selection .................... That small tub of Pinnacle Brazilian Carnauba wax (on the PorterCable box) costs just about $100 now.
 

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