Cadillac Detailing and Bodywork - Interior and Exterior including Body and Wheels Discussion, Automotive Detailing HALL OF FAME -- FAQ in Item Specific Cadillac Discussion; Okay, forumites--
This is an idea that may or may not take off, but we're going to give it a ...
This is an idea that may or may not take off, but we're going to give it a try.
There have been some outstanding posts made by members regarding proper procedures and techniques about car detailing. They're just too good to let die on the vine and get lost in the 25 or more pages of posts.
I've seen good posts about cleaning wheels and tires, treating leather, clay bars, buffing scratches, and waxing. I'm looking for individual posts, not entire threads, although I'll try to post a link to the entire thread if someone wants to read more about it.
So, I'll spend the next few weeks looking for material worthy of our Automotive Detailing Hall of Fame. This thread will be a sticky thread, and it will be locked in order to keep it clean.
If you recall a post from the past two years that you feel belongs in the Hall of Fame, simply PM me with a link to that post, and I'll copy it here.
It applies to any clay bar, not just the Z-18, which I'm sure is a fine product.
This is on our web site about clay, Z-18 is our clay product, but this would work for Mother's or Clay Magic as well.
-18 CLAYBAR INSTRUCTIONS
Return to Application Tips
Z-18 ClayBar removes imbedded contamination from the paint finish that cannot be removed using conventional cleaning methods. It works like no cleaner, compound or chemical can and is safe for use on all paint finishes. The following contaminants are a general description of some of the contaminants that Z-18 ClayBar removes.
Rail dust- is actually tiny, sharp bare metal shavings that can adhere and imbed to the paint finish and cause serious damage when left untreated. Over 70% of new vehicles are transported from the factory using the rail system, therefore rail dust is present on new vehicles. There are many instances where a vehicle travels or is parked near a railroad in which case the finish is infected with rail dust.
Brake dust- similar to rail dust, brake dust is also in the form of tiny, sharp bare metal shavings. In recent years, asbestos brake pads were replaced with metallic brake pads, which are actually brake pads made from tiny metal or metallic shavings. Anytime a vehicle is braking; brake dust is disbursed into the air and onto the paint finish. Since the brake dust is now actually tiny particles of bare metal, this form of brake dust can seriously damage the paint finish when left untreated.
Industrial fallout- is the general term used for pollution and can be found in many forms. Eventually, pollution settles onto the paint finish of all vehicles and can cause serious damage when left untreated.
Tree sap, Road tar, Bug residue, Paint overspray, acid rain deposits and other contaminants that adhere and imbed into the paint finish can cause damage when left untreated.
Why you should use Z-18 ClayBar?
Contaminants that are left untreated can weaken the protective properties and even cause serious damage to the paint finish after a short time.
It is the only way to truly clean the paint finish and prepare the surface for protection with wax, polish and/or paint sealant. A "clayed" paint surface allows wax, polish and/or paint sealant to form a stronger bond to the paint finish.
How you should use Z-18 ClayBar?
First you should thoroughly wash the vehicle to make sure that there is no dirt or debris on the paint finish. Although Z-18 ClayBar is not abrasive to the paint finish, if dirt or debris is present on the paint finish, scratches could result when Z-18 ClayBar is rubbed over a dirty surface. Using a dishwashing detergent such as Liquid Dawn diluted with water will make sure
that the vehicle is free from grease, wax and oily film. (Mix 1 ounce of Liquid Dawn to 2.5 gallons of water for an effective cleaning solution)
Z-18 ClayBar should never be used on a hot surface or in direct sunlight. Using on a hot surface could cause Z-18 ClayBar to stick or "track" on the finish, however this can be removed by simply re-lubricating the surface and rubbing Z-18 ClayBar over the area again.
Z-18 ClayBar is designed to be used with a lubricant. The lubricant creates a "slick" surface for Z-18 ClayBar to glide across. In a spray bottle, mix ½ a cap of Z-7 Car Wash to 16 ounces of water for a lubricant. (You can also mix Z-7 Car Wash in a bucked and lubricate the section with a sponge.)
Lubricate a small section of the vehicle to be cleaned (approximately a 3-ft x 3-ft area). Using adequate pressure, begin rubbing Z-18 ClayBar over the lubricated section to remove contaminants. You can actually feel the contaminants being removed and as the section becomes smooth, simply wipe the area with a 100% cotton towel and continue in small sections until the entire vehicle is complete.
As one side of Z-18 ClayBar becomes soiled, simply flip to the other clean side. After both sides have been used, pull, stretch and refold Z-18 ClayBar to expose a fresh clean side. When pulling, stretching and folding no longer exposes a clean side, discard and use a new piece. Note: Occasionally inspect Z-18 ClayBar to make sure there is no heavy dirt or debris present.
Re-wash the entire vehicle with Z-7 Car Wash if you are planning on applying Z-1, Z-2 or Z-5 immediately after the Clay Cleaning Process.
**Important note: Avoid reusing Z-18 ClayBar if it has been dropped on the ground. If dropped on the ground it may pick up dirt, or other debris that can cause serious scratches to the paint finish.
Should I protect the finish after using Z-18 ClayBar?
After using Z-18 ClayBar, the finish has been truly cleaned of all contaminants and stripped of all wax and/or polish leaving it vulnerable to the suns UV rays, acid rain and other elements. The finish should now be protected with wax, polish and or paint sealant to protect the quality and longevity of the finish.
For ultimate shine and protection, use Zaino Bros Show Car Polish. Zaino Bros Show Car Polish is easy to use and provides the ultimate "wet-look" shine with the strongest and most durable protection in the industry.
**Authorized Zaino Distributor **
**Authorized Amsoil Dealer**
02' BMW M5
02' Grand Cherokee Overland
Here's an oldie but a goodie from Dr. Jones in January of 2003
Waxing your car is not equilivant to detailing it. No matter how much you wax and polish it, if you don't also worry about two other parts of the car, it won't look good at all. Those two other parts are the windows and the tires. If they are dirty, the car looks dirty.
I had some free time today between classes, and i've been borrowing my mom's Explorer while my civic is at the body shop, so i decided to do something nice for her and clean up her tires. She uses it to go skiing and stuff, so they were pretty bad.
First i washed the tires using a bucket with water and dawn. To wash them i used an old dirty wash mitt. This is very important. The wash mitt you use on your car makes a HUGE difference (i'll say more on this later). Once you use a wash mitt on your tires, or the underbody, or the lower part of your car if it's verry dirty, that's it for that one. From then on you ONLY use that mitt for that job or something worse. Never take a mitt that has been through that and use it on your finish.
Ok so the cleaning was basically just to remove the salt and mud and all that stuff. For the rims, it's best to use a nice wheel cleaner that is safe for your wheels. Safe usually means water based, most you find are acidic, which can hurt clearcoats and mag wheels. The best water based cleaner i've found is made by P21S. You just spray it on and all that breakdust and everything else comes right off (with the help of a good wheel brush, oxo makes some nice ones). Once they were clean i let them dry, this is a very important step.
Once they are dry they are still brown. There is actually nothing black about the ruber used in tires, i'm not sure what color it normaly is, but it's not black. They use a black dye in the tires to give them that color. That black changes to brown when it's exposed to certain conditions (ie sunlight). The tire dressings are to remove that brown and replace it with black, then in addition add to the black to give it a nice wet or silky look. Tire dressings are quite popular know, you can find them just about everywhere. They even make ones that put different colors on you wheel incase you feel so inclined. In general the gels work much better than the spray. Since the tire is rotating at a very fast speed, the cintripital (sp) force forces everything towards the edge. Light liquids have a much better chance of 'slinging' off than gels do. The one i used was Eimann Fabrik Black Opal Saphire Tire Gel. http://www.properautocare.com/blacsaptirge.html I applied it using some simple applicator pads.
The trick is to go over the tire very thouroughly, getting into all the little cracks. On those tires you knotice they have white writing, this product doesn't turn that black, but many will so be carefull. If you do end up covering that with black, try buffing it off with a rag, if that doesn't work go to an auto parts store to where they have their tire stuff and pick up a little white crayon looking thing that you can use to rewrite the white lettering.
I applied the dressing to as much as the tire as i could, but couldn't get the bottom because of where it hits the ground. The solution is to let the dressing sit for about 10 minutes, then roll the car back/forward about 1/2 a rotation of the tires so that then ends up at top. Dress them again getting the spots you missed, and let it set for another 10 mintutes. Once that is done grab a rag (Those terry cloth towels you can pick up in packs of 10 work good. I use those for this kind of stuff), and buff off the excess so there is no gel or liquid left on the tire. The longer you leave it on and more coats you do, the wetter the tires will look. You have to buff off the excess, or else it will sling off onto your paint just behind the tire the first time you drive it.
You can only get the sides of the tires, which some people don't like because it leaves a little dark side, with a usually lighter color around the tread, this might not look the best, but isn't avoidable. Most good products work fine if you get them just to the edge of the tire. Then after driving around for a little bit it will usually settle and leave a nice gradient of darkness. There is still a color difference, but it's not as noticible.
Finally, here are the results. The pics didn't come out to well, (a lighting thing i think) but here is one. I'll get some more tomorrow in the afternoon.
If anyone actually read all this, i hope it was of help. If you think it's crazy that i can type this much just on doing your tires, just wait till i cover washing, drying, waxing, polishing, buffing and so on.
Last edited by Dr. Jones : 01-31-03 at 03:01 AM.