Dyno Results

[CadV]

Originally Posted by Luna.

I'm just baffled as to how low the numbers are, even for 20/20 low. My lame car only needed a tune to get to 520 rwhp. Keep in mind that comparing dyno to dyno is dangerous, but still--that's a HUGE gap.

I'm hoping to get 560-570 with crankpulley, headers and Corsa exhaust. I'm thinking that's pretty reasonable...

It was 105 in the dyno shop when we made the runs.

[CadV]

Originally Posted by kencav

Cadv-

Are you referring to the WFM tunes most of us are running as having faults?

What specifics are your techs referring to?

Most of us appear to be ok-see no other reports of tune problems

I simply trusted what I bought and never verified it with a tuner and dyno.

I would like to see someone running 15 pounds of boost post their dyno of 600rwhp. I genuinely would like to see it. According to the people we spoke with it is impossible with our fuel system. That's why Hennessey and Lingenfelter are offering 540rwhp packages because beyond that you run into fuel problems. Lingenfelter has all this stuff in R&D and the fuel is why it has not been released.

If I am wrong no biggy, I am after the truth. Too many people have told me what I am sharing with you guys.

Just be careful guys.

[wait4me]

I have shown dyno videos on lingenfelters dyno with SEVERAL people as witnesses in person on hitting those numbers as promised.. The tunes are set up for cars that have no issues. If you have issues on your car then of coarse the tune isnt going to be correct as it is expecting everything to be normal. If you ran Rich in the program it is because you are not making the horsepower that you should be. Even a stock car with just the 255 upper pully and STOCK tune makes 540-560 horsepower TO THE WHEELS. With JUST the 255 upper. That is why the other guys say that number. With my tune for the 255 upper i just pull some timing to be safer, add just a hint of fuel from stock as it is around 11.5 after the tweek and then make some limiter changes and minor background stuff.

For the 255 upper and 5% "8.5" ring you should be near the 600 mark with exhaust and cold air box. I know, as i have done it here SEVERAL times on SEVERAL cars in person.. Im sure i have High def vids of all the cars if it would make a difference..

IF YOU GO PAST THE 8.5 Ring is when you want to add a fuel fix. As that is when you get past that 600 horsepower mark. That was the only reason why i even started messing around with a fuel fix was that i wanted to add a 9 or a 9.5inch ring to my lower that is on my car. That was the only time it was needed. Yes the fpdm is at 95-100 percent duty cycle at that point, but only at that point. The only issue then was you start to drop fuel pressure from 65psi to about 60psi, which then makes the injector duty cycle hit 95% So TECHNICALLY you could probably have enough fuel for 15 more horsepower to be at 100% duty cycle.

If the tune i set up was very rich it was simply because something on your car was making it not make the power it should have.. Im supplying the fuel for the 600 you should be at.. Which if you say it was REALLY rich also shows that the stock fuel system isnt running out of fuel as it was obvously adding more than the engine was using...



Another thing for everyone to know is, heat soak intake is full of crap. How long does it take for thermal transfer of heat to air. Then think about how long it takes, and how long the air is actually inside the intake track itself due to being consumed from the engine.. It isnt an issue EVER.. Anyone saying different is probably a person selling something of coarse, and wants to make money on something...

If people want plastic intakes, i can make plastic ones, Just the metal ones are longer lasting, dont split, are really tough and wont fall apart.... Think about EVERY TURBO car and supercharger car that is using METAL piping.... They dont seem to have issues.......

[stevenash71]

sorry to hear your having problems. Keep at it im sure you will solve the problem. Good Luck

[CadV]

Gonna check and change the spark plugs see if that makes a difference. Right now the lower rpm's are very sluggish, shifts are sloppy. Once the RPM's build up it is much smoother but I am missing a lot of power for sure. Any higher gear low RPM scenario where more gas is being dumped in the cylinder it runs crappy.

Just running the stock tune right now and not giving enough gas for the blower to kick in.

I am working with Jesse on it. He offered to work on it for free if I bring the car up. I just need to prove there is not something mechanically wrong with the car or it will be a wasted trip.

The tough part has been the different stories I am getting from shops I talk too. The stories are not consistent and most of the time vary quite a bit. Their stories prompted me to create this thread in the first place. At least Jesse has worked on our cars so I am trusting his advice. Including the other shops has just made things worse and more stressful.

Jesse did say that a totally stock car and tune with 2.55 upper should dyno at 560rwhp.

If changing the plugs doesn't work I am backing out of all the mods.

[Razorecko]

I might be shooting out of my ass here but is it possible that your car is making around or over 600rwhp and as soon as you start going the car just bogs down because of the fuel issue ? What if you pulled one of the pully's off and than dyno'd it ? Something that would bring down your power level....I'm guessing you have an auto caddy ?? I'm pretty sure Jesse is running this stuff on a manual ? Maybe this is some kind of an issue with the auto trans somehow trying to safeguard itself ?

[CadV]

Originally Posted by Razorecko

I might be shooting out of my ass here but is it possible that your car is making around or over 600rwhp and as soon as you start going the car just bogs down because of the fuel issue ? What if you pulled one of the pully's off and than dyno'd it ? Something that would bring down your power level....I'm guessing you have an auto caddy ?? I'm pretty sure Jesse is running this stuff on a manual ? Maybe this is some kind of an issue with the auto trans somehow trying to safeguard itself ?

That could be possible. I have more shop time set for saturday and they have a dyno. I thought about pulling the 8.5" crank off just t9o see if i got around 550. Problem is the car is running so bad right now. If the plug swap works I will try your suggestion.

[CadV]

Here is our spark plug info in case anyone ever needs it.

Firing Order 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3
Spark Plug Wire Resistance 397-1,337 ohms
Spark Plug Torque 15 N•m 11 lb ft
Spark Plug Gap 1.02 mm 0.040 in
Spark Plug Type GM P/N 12571164
AC Spark Plug P/N 41-985

[kencav]

Cadv- I have auto as well with following

WFM CAI/modded air box
WFM max perf tune
Corsa

Dynoed 490 rwhp 93 degrees

WFM CAI/modded air box
WFM max perf tune
WFM 8.5 crank pulley
AR headers
Corsa

Dynoed 535 rwhp 91 degrees

Plan to remove AR Headers and add 9.5 pulley with switch to WFM pulley tune
Expect rwhp to increase with boost probably 560-575 range

So far only drivability issue was attempt to install 4-inch cone- rough idle

[wait4me]

Ken was my tunes airfuel ratio right on with your mods??

[brent eb02]

Ken...why are you taking the headers off?

[Razorecko]

The 4in cone on my manual gives me no idle issues, this sounds like an auto thing also

[CIWS]

Originally Posted by brent eb02

Ken...why are you taking the headers off?

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...r-headers.html (Decided to remove AR Headers....)

[kencav]

Jesses A/F ratio was spot on with mods even with headers

Headers problem is CEL and need to reposition 02 sensors

[Razorecko]

Hey Jesse if you're doing all these mods on a manual cts-v than it needs to be really clear to all auto owners buying mods because they will not..in no possible way get the same #'s as a manual V with the same mods. Just not possible