D3 CTS-V Baseline and First Tune

[Fire and Ice]

Originally Posted by urbanski

posted chart says flywheel hp

You're right, it sure does... The power was measured at the rear wheels though. We've never pulled a motor to dyno it from the flywheel. Thank you.

[CTSV_Rob]

I got a dyno plot when I meet D3. Anyone want to guess which mods I had at the time?

[CTSV_Rob]

Strange the way they do it, it's "calculated" Flywheel HP.

[wait4me]

Yes it is calculated flywheel hp. Not rear wheel hp. that is why the numbers are different.

Also if you look on Robs dyno, The correct rear end ratio of his car is in the box of 3.73 so his numbers are more accurate at the motor.

On the 09 dyno pull, the ratio shows at 4.90 which changes alot of calculations in the software. There is a setup you can do in the software to allow it to "find" the right gear if you dont know what it is on the setup menu. Here is a screen shot of the correct screen.

[thebigjimsho]

My brain will now esplode!

[urbanski]

Originally Posted by CTSV_Rob

I got a dyno plot when I meet D3. Anyone want to guess which mods I had at the time?

none. you had 400 flywheel hp like a V1 should

[wait4me]

I love the dynapacks, They are EXTREMELY accurate as long as all the settings are right. I even recomend that dyno or the dynodynamics to the new shops that i go to train them when they buy our software. To show REAR WHEEL horsepower all you have to do is select that in the menu. You guys can call me if you want a walk thru.
The Ratio thing is also very important in getting the correct numbers. It throws things way off. So you might have to redyno it a few times.

Just moving the fuel only to 11.8a/f gains about 10-13 hp.

That is Until you do a wide open run thru all 4 gears. Then Cat overtemp protection kicks in and dumps in alot more fuel and then your numbers drop back down to about 2hp gained...


Also, make sure you do the run in 4th gear on the auto. It is the closest to 1:1 as you can get. Even though it is 1:1.15

[Seattle CTS-V]

I think the main point of this thread is that they eeked 37rwhp out of a quick tune alone. The type of dyno is not relavent. Nice job guys!

[nikon]

for you guys wanting to see auto vs manual #'s

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/cadill...009-cts-v.html

[Razorecko]

Originally Posted by nikon

for you guys wanting to see auto vs manual #'s

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/cadill...009-cts-v.html

^ now thats confusing - the auto making a genera 8hp more than the manual ??

[thebigjimsho]

Then buy a Hyundai...

[Varsity]

Q. Why aren't you changing the pulleys as well as dumping more fuel?

Q. Do you remap the gearbox to hold longer to use the power/torque?

Q. Have you added a better flowing exhaust to the map?

Last Q. Who makes the ECU unit?

Cheers

[Razorecko]

hmmm...unless the auto was already pretty broken in with mileage and the manual was still fresh with a few miles.

[RapidRob]

Originally Posted by Razorecko

hmmm...unless the auto was already pretty broken in with mileage and the manual was still fresh with a few miles.

You may be right - otherwise, it shows the auto to be more efficient than the manual. This would be the first time I've ever heard of that being the case ..

Rob

[Razorecko]

^ agreed Rob. That must be the answer because if the auto made more hp than it would mean that the manual would be causing more drivetrain loss which is theoretically impossible. The gearing might be better on the auto but the gearing has nothing to do with hp/tq numbers.