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10K views 31 replies 13 participants last post by  ccextra1976 
#1 ·
Need some help,

trying to decide what cam to run, but not fully understanding the spec's on the Katech stage I cam..

here are details

Katech
Stage I Camshaft KAT-4074

204 / 218 @ .050, .551 / .551 lift, 112 LSA
Designed for substantial increase in performance while retaining awesome driveability.

Vengeance racing VRX3 cam

226/228 .585/.588 114 LSA.

by quick look it seems the katech would make lower HP number... below is there dyno graph, and it show nice smooth numbers across the whole curve...

AM I MISSING SOMETHING ??? smart cam guys please help
 

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#2 ·
I believe are stock cams are almost the same as the katech but we i believe have a 113 or 114 lsa. so the only difference you will get is probably about 15 rwhp going with the katech and with going with the VRX3 it has a longer duration which means that the valves are open longer meaning more air and more fuel more power. Anything under a 230/230 lift will be more than enough power down low anything about 230/230 will be more top rpm power and a little less bottom end power. the VRX3 is a great cam and you make great power and still be able to DD the car with no problems.
 
#3 ·
I do not know a lot about CAM shafts, however, I have worked a lot with Vengeance Racing and they are top of the line and second to none. I'd call Ron at Vengeance and tell him Cowan referred you to him and he can give you a boat load of information.

Let me know if there is anything else I can do. Cowan
 
#4 ·
I like the specs on the Vengence cam, smoothq is right, the Katech cam is very close to stock specs except I believe stock LSA is 117. Regardless, doing a camswap is time & money consuming, even if you get the cam for a deal, you still pay for springs, retainers, gaskets, fluids, pushrods, etc. The Vengence cam isn't anything too radical that you'd regret, but would definitely give you a noticeable increase. I'm not sure there'd be enough increase over the stocker with the Katech to justify the time & money of a swap.
 
#7 ·
The thing the Katech cam, and something like the Thuber Rcing CheaTR cam have going for them is that they don;t change drivablity all, and you don;t really need to replace any other bits when installing them, ( i.e. prings, pushrods, rockers, lifters, timing set/chain, etc.) Those are a great idea if you just want a nice little bump, and don't plan to do anything else ever to the car (like headers, etc.)

Personally I'd get a custom cam speced out for your exact requirements by PatrickG over on LS1TECH. That's what I did, and ended up with a very nice cam that still idles and drives great (albeit with a bit of lope) +57 HP +40TQ. Of course I added a lot of supporting mods to go with mine, so that extra power came at an extra $$$ cost.

My cam specs are in my sig.

-Chris
 
#9 ·
Chris,

You wrote an awesome cam write-up, i read the whole thing...

I guess I should explain more, in katech's website, when you look up any cam spec higher than the stage I cam they claim for this cam:
229 / 229 @ .050, .576 / .576 lift, 116 LSA
you need forged pistons...and larger vlave pockets...

and this one is closer to the VRX3, which recommends the valve train upgrade..ie spring push rods etc...

I guess I am not understanding what the huge difference is that requires larger valve pockets etc..with the katech..vrs VRX3 or any custom cam around that size

so my overall goal is:

50HP total including cam/headers...and power across the entire power range from 1,900rpm-redline...the headers i wanna run are kooks 1 3/4 without CAT's
 
#8 ·
True enough Trukk. Just make sure you think about your future mods and plan the cam to work the the mods.

I was honestly a little nervous with a .600" or higher lift cam on my DD without going to the mod extent you did on the valvetrain. Really not what I would consider a significant difference between the VRX3 and the PatG cam you're running Trukk (2 degrees less intake duration, more intake lift, and 1 degree narrower LSA - just looking quickly).

Have you had her on the track since? I suspect she runs really good. Great write-up on your install approach by the way.
 
#12 ·
I haven't run my car at the strip since. I've actually only been one time, and it didn't really do anything for me. I have run my car at the road course since, and it really moves now. I was able to run a 2:15 best lap at VIR, which is moving for a big tank like ours. I was hanging with vettes and 911's all weekend.

-Chris
 
#11 ·
Hey Steve,

Are you going for a cam already? Just remember a few things when looking for a cam. First of all your current cam profile is this: 551/.555 lift, 218/204 duration, 117.5 LSA.

There are a alot of cam designs out there. they seem to have been developed over time. The GM hot cam and most of the 224 and 228 grinds were the first generation of aftermarket cams. They're proven to make decent power and the have superb street manners. Then LG motorsports(G5X1-2), Texas Speed(Magic Stick), Futral(FM-10-11) showed up with durations in the 230+ and lift breaking .600. 4th and current generations have just gotten silly 250+ durations and lift beyond .650.

Look into each manufacturers specs listed on their website they will sometimes give you a good indicator of what kind of power that specific grind will deliver. A really good site for LS6 cam dyno result infomation is corv***eforum and ls1tech those two will pretty much answer any question you could ever think of.

All comes down to what you prefer. I think your quest for 50+ extra Hp is easily doable with a mid range 228-230 580/590 lift cam. After having an agressive cam in my vette I wouldn't want the side to side rocking lope of a 110 LSA cam in the caddy I think it's a little odd in this car. You should definitely get Headers if your going to do the cam otherwise your just shooting your self in the foot.

BTW, I leave for Holloman in two weeks I'll be out there for almost 3 months. Then I RNLT to Afcannonstan the end of June. we'll have to get together before then.

Frank
 
#13 ·
thanks to everyone for the replies...I think I'm starting to norrow down my cam quest!!
Good thing is, I will save the labor on the instal and do it myself...just need to buy the cam/re-tune/springs and pushrods..and the various odd ball parts/supplies...and the kooks headers



Frank,

I wanna check your car out again before you leave, some time next week...I did the katech shifter at the hobby shop and it seems to be alot louder than yours...little comparison needed...


ya, I am going for the headers and cam already....i just need to pick which cam I want...I will check out the ones you listed and the one trukk has...seem to me for an all purpose cam in this range (228-230 580/590 lift ) is going to be the set-up I am looking for....I just need extra insurance that the mustangs see my taillights not my side markers:histeric:

and that is a long time to be in that sh!thole...good luck with that.... are you taking the V?
 
#15 ·
LOL, real men that don't daily drive their car.

-Chris
 
#16 ·
Why would ccexrta not go ahead and get the 1 7/8 headers instead of the 1 3/4 headers?
 
#18 ·
that was my thought process of why I'm going to run the 1 3/4....also the cam I decided to have PatG grind is going to be made with balance across the entire range...I'm trying to build my NA motor so I dont loose any power down low and gain to redline. I know it won't be the fastest thing out there, but it suits what I'm looking for
 
#19 ·
ccextra!!! Where are you on the order? have you figured everything out yet??:alchi:
 
#20 ·
I have to call luke tomorrow and see if I can get in on the kooks buy, he is killing me with all "sale group buy items" lol....
And once my bank account recovers from that, I will order the cam/springs and lifters from...hopefully uncle sam is good to me on my return I spent 6 months in the sandbox :usflag: so it should be a good tax year!
 
#21 ·
6 months thats all? Dude i live in the sandbox...Plus if you wanted a tax break i would have stayed out for 335 days, then all the money you made is TAX FREE...

If you are gonna do mods, start with all the problematic ones, then go for the luxury items...Motor mounts, diff bushin, and shifter...
 
#22 ·
ya but you are miss two important factors in life over there :alchi::bouncy2:

I figure it this way...I paid good money for a warranty...so they can replace the mounts/diff and bushings until the warranty runs out...then I will go UUC but that wont be for another 38,XXX miles:)
 
#24 ·
Go to Vengeance, get the VRX!

They did my 06' LS2 powered V. Dyno on a hot muggy GA summer day (outside ambient 98F - humidity 80%, dyno room felt like hell it was so hot) put down 400/400 to the wheels. Love winter - good dry cold air getting through the throttle body lets the VRX really enhance the driving experience. No problem to use as a DD. I have approximately 16k on the package with no issues. If I keep reasonable highway speeds on realtively flat roads I still see around 24'ish mpg (of coarse my avg is in the toilet because sometimes I am a bit unreasonable:lildevil::sneaky:)

Since the cam, headers, B&B, UUC, CAI and custome tune, I had Vengeance do a Textralia clutch/flywheel package. Phenominal throttle response, and wow, does it hook-up :2thumbs::burn: They have great customer service support, proactive follow-up and a fun place to sit around and bench race.

As Cowan said.....call Ron, tell him I said to name drop.....;)
 
#25 ·
#29 ·
Thank you,

this is an awesome write-up, and seems to fit overall goals of what I plan for the V, headers (no CATS)/cam/ intake (Stealthv tube/K&N drop in) and ported TB

seems to keep the stock drivability and not lose any #'s in the bottom end, but great gains from 2.5k up

224/230 .609/.604 113+2 these are the specs from PatG
224/228 .609”/.588” 111LSA +0 advance trukk's cam PatG

not a guru on cams yet lol...besides idle and little more on the exhaust they would seem to perform relativity close?
 
#28 ·
I did 402/387 with bolt ons. If you like bragging about dyno numbers you should really set your sights higher than 400.
 
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