Brake upgrade (drilled & slotted)

[mrw8]

I"m planning on upgrading the stock rotors,calipers,and pads next week and before I buy them I wanted to see if any one here had any suggestions on the ones they have or would like to have.

Thanks.

[denniscts]

Well I bought mine from rotorpros.com
I ordered the drilled /slotted one painted black
came with hawk HPS pads and they work like a charm quick shipping good price 360.00 includinf shipping
for front / rear rotors and and pads .

good luck

[honey-ham]

Originally Posted by mrw8

I"m planning on upgrading the stock rotors,calipers,and pads next week and before I buy them I wanted to see if any one here had any suggestions on the ones they have or would like to have.

Thanks.

Yeah, I was wondering the same thing. I have about 40,000 mi. on mine and I want something that isn't going to produce as much brake dust as the stock ones and that are going to perform well considering I have 22's.

[mrw8]

I see a ton on e bay and other sites, but have been undecided on which ones are being used by others.

[tommy compton]

I have r1 concept premium rotors and hawk hps pads, couldn't be happier.
others on the forum have the same set up, while others have uuc rotors(from lindsay cadillac)and hawk hps pads, i have heard good things about them too.
i'd be kind of weary about buying rotors on ebay, you could get what you pay for or worse.

i also have the uuc braided brake lines, and swapped out my dot-3 for dot-4 fluid, made a big difference.

[GT!]

Originally Posted by tommy compton

I have r1 concept premium rotors and hawk hps pads, couldn't be happier.
others on the forum have the same set up, while others have uuc rotors(from lindsay cadillac)and hawk hps pads, i have heard good things about them too.
i'd be kind of weary about buying rotors on ebay, you could get what you pay for or worse.

i also have the uuc braided brake lines, and swapped out my dot-3 for dot-4 fluid, made a big difference.

How does brake fluid make a big difference?

-GT

[tommy compton]

well it's not just the brake fluid but a combination of everything. i'm no expert on brake fluid but dot 4 is better than dot 3. it has a higher boiling point than dot 3, so it reduces that squishy pedal feeling when your brakes get hot. it also resists moisture absorbtion more than dot 3 . moisture in the fluid will also lower the boiling point causing that squishy pedal. fresh brake fluid in itself wil make difference, mine was due to be flushed.
the combination of the new dot-4 and the steel lines really gave my pedal a nice firm feel.

[GT!]

Originally Posted by tommy compton

well it's not just the brake fluid but a combination of everything. i'm no expert on brake fluid but dot 4 is better than dot 3. it has a higher boiling point than dot 3, so it reduces that squishy pedal feeling when your brakes get hot. it also resists moisture absorbtion more than dot 3 . moisture in the fluid will also lower the boiling point causing that squishy pedal. fresh brake fluid in itself wil make difference, mine was due to be flushed.
the combination of the new dot-4 and the steel lines really gave my pedal a nice firm feel.

Liquids don't compress (at least not to any significant degree). Squishiness comes from air in the brake lines (air is very compressible). Also unlikely that replacing brake lines would make any difference in this respect as the steel lines will also not expand enough to make any noticeable difference.

Sorry to throw facts in the way, but at least whatever you did made it feel better to you and that's what counts

-GT

[tommy compton]

Moisture causes steam, steam has air causing a squishy pedal. Also, steel braided lines reduce the flexing exspecially when high temperatures are reached. The lines I replaced were the rubber lines to the calipers, not the steel lines to the rest of the system.
MOISTURE IN THE BRAKE SYSTEM
Water/moisture can be found in nearly all brake systems. Moisture enters the brake system in several ways. One of the more common ways is from using old or pre-opened fluid. Keep in mind, that brake fluid draws in moisture from the surrounding air. Tightly sealing brake fluid bottles and not storing them for long periods of time will help keep moisture out. When changing or bleeding brake fluid always replace master cylinder caps as soon as possible to prevent moisture from entering into the master cylinder. Condensation, (small moisture droplets) can form in lines and calipers. As caliper and line temperatures heat up and then cool repeatedly, condensation occurs, leaving behind an increase in moisture/water. Over time the moisture becomes trapped in the internal sections of calipers, lines, master cylinders, etc. When this water reaches 212º F the water turns to steam. Many times air in the brake system is a result of water that has turned to steam. The build up of steam will create air pressure in the system, sometimes to the point that enough pressure is created to push caliper pistons into the brake pad. This will create brake drag as the rotor and pads make contact and can also create more heat in the system. Diffusion is another way in that water/moisture may enter the system.

Diffusion occurs when over time moisture enters through rubber brake hoses. The use of hoses made from EPDM materials (Ethlene-Propylene-Diene-Materials) will reduce the amount of diffusion OR use steel braided brake hose with a non-rubber sleeve (usually Teflon) to greatly reduce the diffusion process.


Passenger cars very rarely will undergo a brake fluid change making the wet boiling point more important.

Sorry I didn't explain further when I posted about it. Maybe the difference I feel wasn't in direct coralation to the Dot-4 Fluid, but rather to using new fluid. However Dot-4 will stand the test of time better, and will help with any moisture left in the brake lines.

[prhynce]

What are the perks in buying new rotors and calipers beside the brake dust?