3.2 Denso Iridium - Page 2

LUVMY04V · #16 (**permalink**) 02-21-07, 11:19 AM

I got some new NGK IX iridiums

Ill let u know if i can feel a difference

when the rain melts the salt off the road around here and i get my bumper back on

RobertCTS · #17 (**permalink**) 02-21-07, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by luvmy03caddy

I got some new NGK IX iridiums

Ill let u know if i can feel a difference

when the rain melts the salt off the road around here and i get my bumper back on

Went with the NGK plugs eh? Much difference in price? Let us know what your old plugs looked like after all those miles. Did you notice how thin the electrodes are? Wow that is so different!

LUVMY04V · #18 (**permalink**) 02-21-07, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobertCTS

Went with the NGK plugs eh? Much difference in price? Let us know what your old plugs looked like after all those miles. Did you notice how thin the electrodes are? Wow that is so different!

yep that is the signature (small tip)....your denso's should be the same...and the dealmaker for me was I like the guys at napa better then autozone and we have accounts at both...so they cost me nothing but ngk's are cheaper online for the record. Also these plugs run colder than stock ones and iridium is good under high heat. So ideal for our 3.2 high compression engine (or so my thinking) and i can run some juice if i decide to go through with it

either way I gotta get my Hid's bumper on first then i will do the sparkplug thing. Paitence is a virtue.

But im getting really anxious

RobertCTS · #19 (**permalink**) 02-21-07, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by luvmy03caddy

yep that is the signature (small tip)....your denso's should be the same...and the dealmaker for me was I like the guys at napa better then autozone and we have accounts at both...so they cost me nothing but ngk's are cheaper online for the record. Also these plugs run colder than stock ones and iridium is good under high heat. So ideal for our 3.2 high compression engine (or so my thinking) and i can run some juice if i decide to go through with it

either way I gotta get my Hid's bumper on first then i will do the sparkplug thing. Paitence is a virtue.

But im getting really anxious

Juice?? You might beat my as$ after all Luv

LUVMY04V · #20 (**permalink**) 02-21-07, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobertCTS

Juice?? You might beat my as$ after all Luv

lol i doubt it if i run it it will only be a 35 and that will put me about equal to you. But i want to do it right not just some ghey fast n furious wannabe setup...somthing very nice and that gives me 30 hp's when i want it

it would be a cool race though if it all does work out

and as for the plug thing i will take many pics during the install

04deveni · #21 (**permalink**) 04-30-08, 01:25 AM

Any word on those pics???? ;-)

odysseus · #22 (**permalink**) 04-30-08, 09:52 AM

Yes, they DO make a difference on the 3.2. My CTS is right under 100K miles. For the 100K mile tune up I replaced the stock platinum Bosch plugs with Denso Iridiums. The idle is MUCH smoother and the WOT growl seems to be slightly deeper. I haven't driven on the highway enough to see what the overall affect on gas mileage is. They're expensive ($12 to $15 each, depending on where you get them), but nothing but the best for my car.

I bought my CTS (with 400 demo miles on it) to drive, not to admire. I was putting 500 miles a week on it since I got it, on business travel. It still drives and looks new. I'll be keeping it a while, although I picked up a NorthStar STS for a daily driver last month, and haven't touched the CTS since then.

figgie · #23 (**permalink**) 05-01-08, 01:08 PM

man 12k-15k averge...

well consider it skewed with my car..

bought it with 3 miles on the odo in Nov 2006. Currently sitting at 37k miles.

Stick with the platinum if only for the longer service interval than copper. Iridium might last longer but it does not conduct heat/Electricity no where near as good as platinum and forget comparing them to copper.

04deveni · #24 (**permalink**) 05-02-08, 01:52 AM

So for performance purposes, copper? They're cheaper so I don't care about intervals. (So long as someone posts some picks and I get to do the change myself)

figgie · #25 (**permalink**) 05-02-08, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 04deveni

So for performance purposes, copper? They're cheaper so I don't care about intervals. (So long as someone posts some picks and I get to do the change myself)

Copper is 2nd best electrical conductor AND thermal conductor. 2nd to silver. I use Copper only in my supra and I have CDI on that car.

odysseus · #26 (**permalink**) 05-02-08, 01:22 PM

Copper is always best for electrical transmission (spark). You'll be changing them every 30K miles, though. GM puts platinum in to get 100K miles before the first tune-up. The iridium ones have a very tiny tip, which opens up the spark slightly.

If you've never changed the plugs in a 3.2, you'll soon appreciate why GM used platinum plugs. Especially on the passenger side.

figgie · #27 (**permalink**) 05-02-08, 02:37 PM

That iridium stuff is a double edge sword.

It last a while but man. under higher HP application, that tip becomes a glow plug!

04deveni · #28 (**permalink**) 05-02-08, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by odysseus

If you've never changed the plugs in a 3.2, you'll soon appreciate why GM used platinum plugs. Especially on the passenger side.

That's why I'm trying to get a little hands-on guide going here, with some pictures. Seems like nobody has pics though. Obviously it's a rare thing and people just can't pull pics from their A$$E$.

Someone in another thread mentioned that once you do the change the first time it's not as hard anymore.

Regardless, any help with that hands-on guide will be appreciated.

Spyke · #29 (**permalink**) 05-02-08, 05:25 PM

is it harder or easier to change spark plug on a 3.6 than a 3.2 liter?

odysseus · #30 (**permalink**) 05-02-08, 05:31 PM

I don't know about the 3.6, but on the 3.2, you need to remove the power steering reservoir on the drivers side valve cover (easy) before you can remove the coil pack and get to the plugs.

On the passenger side, you need to remove the ECM and bracket, which covers the coil pack on that side. Two of the bolts used to hold it on are down by the exhaust manifold. Take a look and see how tight it is down there. Not easy to get tools or your hand in there. I used a racheting closed end wrench and unscrewed one 1/16th of a turn at a time, and a double extension with elbow and socket on a rachet to get to the other. I used tape to hold the bolt to the socket while I put it back in to keep from dropping it.

I learned that I don't want to have to change them every year or two, if I can avoid it. It literally took me two evenings to figure it all out and not let frustration get the best of me.