Cadillac CTS First Generation Forum - 2003 - 2007 Discussion, timing chain help please in Cadillac CTS Coupe, Sport Sedan and Sport Wagon Forums; Heh well this thing is def being a pain in my um rear lets say I have done several other ...
Double and triple checked all the marks, rotated it over a couple times to make sure it spun smooth. not seeing any issues i put it back together. pulled the fuel pump relay spun the motor over with the starter make sure all was good and primed. stuck the relay in and fired her up and after the idle came down was pretty rough multi miss fire on bank one with cam position codes. lots of cursing then ensued torn her back down and on bank one there is tones of slack on the secondary chains guide side "see pic"
all i have to ask is wth did i do wrong and can i just pull the bank one secondary chain or do i have to pull all three chains again? i installed new chains with new tensioners and replaced the bank 2 timing chain shoe all parts where ac delco gm parts
You have to make sure that even after you put everything back together, you have to constantly keep the chains tight, otherwise you're trying to fix gap error when everything is tight enough.
Your timing is obviously off and my guess is that the way you put the chain and pulleys back together, on you might have skipped a tooth.
Just because you could roll over the motor does not mine it has to hit a valve and lock the engine.
You have to think backwards and keep the loose part of the chain on the tensioner side constantly as you're messing with the sprockets.
Also, first thing I always do before putting the new timing components back on is compare them with the old one. Are the chains the same length and do the sprockets have the same number of teeth.
mainly customer complaint with the chain noise coming from the engine is why they where changed, took ended up taking all three of anyways going to replace all the guides, still wondering how i ended up with that slack in that bank one chain. The new chains where actually a bit shorter than the old ones same number of links though, used the old sprockets
The tension is mainly provided by oil pressure in the tensioners, the spring in these is not that strong. Always replace the entire kit...guides, tensioners and chains. The wear in the tensioner bore allows pressure to bleed past the plunger/piston.
Depending on what replacement kit you use you have to pull the little release pins on the tensioners after you ensure the timing is correct for the springs to release and take up slack.