3.6L Oil Change Pictoral

[Planediveguy]

Just on this issue alone this Forum has provided me more than enough! Today, for the first time ever I changed the oil on my vehicle. I have always taken my cars to delares or places like Jiffy Lube and such... Bought the oil at Sam's Club, tools, filter, oil pan at Autozone... it took me 20 minutes and it was very easy and clean. It is a shame dealers have to charge so much for this service. But why spend 100 dolars at the dealer if I can get 6 quarts of Mobil one at Sam's for 32 bucks?

[FSU_Noles]

Originally Posted by Planediveguy

Just on this issue alone this Forum has provided me more than enough!

Then you saved enough to become a supporting member

[Chuck C]

Oh boy, I did not get the same results as Louie...

So I thought today would a be a great day for a little DIY oil change based on the instructions provided here.

So I went to Wal-Mart first: $35 for oil (7qt Mobil 1 syn), $10 for Fram oil filter. (I also picked up a drain pan and funnel)

Then I went to Sears down the street: $7 for 13mm and 15/16" sockets.

Pulled the car in the garage, and tackled the oil filter first. That sucker was torqued on tight, but I got it after a few minutes. Oil dripped pretty steadily as I pulled it off an set it down on the table. Ruined a pair of shoes in the process . Replaced the filter with ease.

Then the oil plug. It was torqued on incredibly tight. I tried WD-40, a couple extensions on the socket wrench, and a couple positions laying on the floor...would not budge. I even busted out the jack provided with the spare, but after some careful thought, I put it away and admitted defeat. The last thing I needed was the car to fall on me!

I wasted about an hour. I'll probably return the oil and have the professionals change my oil.

[SoCadillac]

Originally Posted by Chuck C

Then the oil plug. It was torqued on incredibly tight. I tried WD-40, a couple extensions on the ratchet, and a couple positions laying on the floor...would not budge. I even busted out the jack provided with the spare, but after some careful thought, I put it away and admitted defeat. The last thing I needed was the car to fall on me!

I wasted about an hour. I'll probably return the oil and have the professionals change my oil.

There is no way that the oil drain plug should be that tight. It should only be torqued on at 18 ft-lbs. Try using a breaker bar versus a ratchet. Do you have some drive on ramps instead of using the jack? The jack that comes with the CTS is too dangerous to ever attempt crawling under a the CTS when using it. Walmart, AutoZone and others sell these ramps and they are excellent:

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...l%3Den%26lr%3D

[MJDART]

My dad had a Saturn L200 a couple of years back. I changed his oil, the Sautrn used the exact same filter cnaister as the Cadillac. It was so tight I almost couldn't get it off (probably same situation as Chuck C ran into). Once you do get it loose every time after will be simple. The sealing method is an O-Ring which doesn't need much torque.

I've been changing my own oil since 1973 and I swear I can sense the difference in the engine for the first few miles. The Caddilac appears to be the simplest for changing oil I've ever seen. GM thrashes the Lexus filter setup on my IS300.

[MemberX]

Originally Posted by SoCadillac

There is no way that the oil drain plug should be that tight.

That's what happens when "professionals " do it.

[SoCadillac]

Originally Posted by MemberX

That's what happens when "professionals " do it.

You're right...I've seen more drain plugs stripped or locked-on by someone using an air ratchet on a drain plug. There is a fine-art to the drain plug, its washer (actually replacing it at oil changes), and how they all go together. Plus, owning and knowing how to use a torque wrench that's properly calibrated.

[ctsvett]

this IS the reason to do it yourslef... IT should be obvious that the person who last did it did use an air ratchet and DID NOT use a torque wrench as you should. Get the drain plug loose and then do the changes yourself from now on. Make sure you are turning it the right way and use a extension on your wrench (pip, etc)- righty tighty, lefty loosy...

HOWEVER. DO NOT DO THIS WHILE THE CAR IS ON THE CTS INCLUDED JACK. Buy ramps for $30 at pep boys... $30 could save your life... NEVER get under the car with the spare tire jack. NEVER! Having the car up in the air makes things VERY easy. use the ramps.

Reed

[Z71]

Have the right bolt?

I heard a good one recently. Newer GMC 4x4 Envoy front differential siezed up. No fluid in the axle but the engine is overfull. Apparently this lady had the quick lube change her oil last (drain plugs on front diff). It took about 3 weeks for the axle to self-destruct. The vehicle had over 50,000 miles on it and there were no leaks. QL joker had to open the wrong drain plug?

Lasy was lucky, dealer was able to find a used axle asm. for less than $1000

[Devil_concours]

Originally Posted by ctsvett

this IS the reason to do it yourslef... IT should be obvious that the person who last did it did use an air ratchet and DID NOT use a torque wrench as you should. Get the drain plug loose and then do the changes yourself from now on. Make sure you are turning it the right way and use a extension on your wrench (pip, etc)- righty tighty, lefty loosy...

HOWEVER. DO NOT DO THIS WHILE THE CAR IS ON THE CTS INCLUDED JACK. Buy ramps for $30 at pep boys... $30 could save your life... NEVER get under the car with the spare tire jack. NEVER! Having the car up in the air makes things VERY easy. use the ramps.

Reed

if you have long enough arms, you can do this without using a jack.

[bicentennialcadillac]

Just wanted to bump, and to say thanks.

This was too easy. Those not changing their own oil should seriously consider it, with the 3.6 it's a piece of cake.

[Zig28]

Thanks so much for posting this article and the great photos! I had the first oil change on my 3.6L 2006 STS4 done at the dealer at around 3k miles, but I somehow got the feeling that all they did is reset the meter and didn't really change the oil. Car now has 6k miles and I'm going to do it myself.

I put the car up on ramps (low profile ramps available at Wal-Mart, my "normal" sized ones don't fit under the low STS front bumper) and spent about 15 minutes looking for the oil filter! Couldn't find it and although I guessed that it might be in the canister up on top of the engine, I had never seen one like this before.

So I did a search in the forums and found this article. Great! I will try it this weekend. I bought a WIX filter, couldn't believe how small and light it is without the metal canister that "normal" oil filters are supplied with. The shop owner couldn't believe it either...

Anyway, I'll report back if I discover any tips. Thanks again!

[MJDART]

I've done 2 changes on my '06 one at 2250 miles and the other at 8250. I ordered the AC Delco PF2129 filters from Advanced Auto for $4.99 plus shipping. Came out to less than $20 for 2 filters. Sam's Club has 6 packs of Mobil 1 for $27, so basically $37 for a 6 qt Mobil 1 change with filter.

I love the filter setup on this engine.

[dynalub]

Hi, I have several AC oil filters, none of them come with o ring seals that fit on the top of the filter housing. Do other brands supply the o ring with thier product? Tom

[jcdas]

I think the real beauty about the new oil filter element design, is that there is virtually no oil left in the element to despose of, unlike a spin on design where there is always 1/2 litre/quart of oil left.

Seems that all newer engine designs are going to this design. Chevy Ecotec, Mini to name a few others.

I'm not a tree hugger, but I do think we need to take care of this earth a bit better than in the past.

John.