High beams go on when turning
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Cadillac CTS First Generation Forum - 2003 - 2007 Discussion, High beams go on when turning in Cadillac CTS Coupe, Sport Sedan and Sport Wagon Forums; Not sure if this has happened to anyone else, but the last few weeks my high beams have been going ...
  1. #1
    ricoZg is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): 2005 Cadillac CTS 3.6L
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    26

    High beams go on when turning

    Not sure if this has happened to anyone else, but the last few weeks my high beams have been going crazy. When driving with the low beams on, when I signal to make a right turn the high beams go on. This doesn't happen when signaling left or when the low beams are off.

    Do I need to replace the turn signal switch?

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  3. #2
    curtc's Avatar
    curtc is online now OCD - Obsessive Cadillac Disorder
    Automobile(s): White Diamond 06 STS V8 RWD 1SF F55 HUD/ACC NAV - 130k
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    Sounds like that may be the culprit.
    Past Cadillac's

    2004 CTS 3.6L - 2011-2012
    2001 Seville Touring Sedan - 2006-2011
    1995 Seville Touring Sedan - 2005-2006

  4. #3
    CTSM is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
    Automobile(s): 07' CTS 3.6L Lux \ V-Sways \StrutBrace\ R1 \ Volant\ Borla
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    Re: High beams go on when turning

    Quote Originally Posted by ricoZg View Post
    Not sure if this has happened to anyone else, but the last few weeks my high beams have been going crazy. When driving with the low beams on, when I signal to make a right turn the high beams go on. This doesn't happen when signaling left or when the low beams are off.

    Do I need to replace the turn signal switch?
    I have just done that about a month ago same exact problem and it was annoying the heck out of me, then I decided to do something about it myself.

    If anyone wants to do it on their own like I did mine here is what will be needed:

    Parts / Tools:

    *The turn signal / cruise / lights switch: AC Delco part# D6264C

    *Thin 1/4" ratchet screw driver, thin enough to fit in the tight space down there, I got mine from home depot, I have also seen this small mini ratchet at Advanced Auto Parts there's is a bit thinner and better I assume but both work.

    Looks kinds of like this though not the same one, the ones I mentioned are yellow and black and not as thin.



    * T25 torx bit, sawed right before the notch to make as short as possible.

    * A thick cable tie, yet not too thick that it can't go through the hole the T25 torx screw was in.


    Procedure:
    I personally found the switch for good price on Ebay almost $30. I have seen it on RockAuto.com and they have it for $26.79 (+ tax / shipping ....etc) wherever it's cheaper to get then get it.

    To remove the old signal / cruise / lights switch, the top steering wheel cover has to be removed to expose the switch's base. Make sure to pull the cover gently things certain tabs and plastic studs can brake in there. I think I broke one plastic piece on the inside of the top steering wheel cover but I notice that it has no effect on how it's held, it still can hold on well with the side tabs that mate with the bottom steering wheel cover anyways.


    You will notice the switch is held by two 25 screws one on top which is very easy to get to and one on the bottom which is VERY difficult to get to without removing the steering wheel.

    I cheated. I didn't remove the steering wheel. I purchased the smallest and thinnest mini ratchet I could find on the market.

    I purchased a T25 bit. I cut it almost to the notch that is needed to keep it in the mini ratchet, because space is so tight if the bit is not cut more than %40 in length you won't be able to fit the mini ratchet in that tight space to remove that torx screw.

    I initially used that mini ratchet setup to remove that initial torque, then I went in with a magnetic tip and long needle nose pliers. I picked up the screw.

    Then removed the cover under the guage cluster so I can get access to the wiring.

    There are 4 connections to the switch I think, observe them carefully, so that you find the notch on each one that you can push with a small flattip screw driver to release them, no need to break anything after all this hassle, take it easy and slow.

    Also make sure the wiring harness carrying all these connections doesn't fall through it won't be fun picking it up from down there in the chassis.

    Now once all the connections are back in place (all connectors are unique nothing can be mixed up or flipped around if it's in it's in the right place) we need to worry about that bottom torx screw.

    Keep in mind I'm a cheater, remember I cheated at the begining. It might be too tough and tight spaced in there to get the the torx screw back in, so the price I pay is I'm not going to use it, well big deal, what I did is that I got the thickest cable tie I could manage to fit through the back of the hole and go through the signal switch screw hole at the bottom and used it as a screw in replacement, cable tie goes through column hole and switch hole, goes around real tight and boom done. Make sure it's really as tight as can be, keep in mind it should be as tight as that torx screw was so that you don't end up with any wiggling when you use it, my switch feels as firm as it was when it was screwed in.

    And the cable tie works much better than the scew in that position. At least should I ever need to replace that switch ever again, I simply just cut out the cable tie and remove the top screw and it's game over for that non-functional switch.

    Hope you find this info helpful, I posted this long post because when I needed help I couldn't figure out where to find info on this and had to just figure it out on my own, but now you and others don't have to at least, so cheers!.

    Peace

  5. #4
    ricoZg is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): 2005 Cadillac CTS 3.6L
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by CTSM

    I have just done that about a month ago same exact problem and it was annoying the heck out of me, then I decided to do something about it myself.

    If anyone wants to do it on their own like I did mine here is what will be needed:

    Parts / Tools:

    *The turn signal / cruise / lights switch: AC Delco part# D6264C

    *Thin 1/4" ratchet screw driver, thin enough to fit in the tight space down there, I got mine from home depot, I have also seen this small mini ratchet at Advanced Auto Parts there's is a bit thinner and better I assume but both work.

    Looks kinds of like this though not the same one, the ones I mentioned are yellow and black and not as thin.

    * T25 torx bit, sawed right before the notch to make as short as possible.

    * A thick cable tie, yet not too thick that it can't go through the hole the T25 torx screw was in.

    Procedure:
    I personally found the switch for good price on Ebay almost $30. I have seen it on RockAuto.com and they have it for $26.79 (+ tax / shipping ....etc) wherever it's cheaper to get then get it.

    To remove the old signal / cruise / lights switch, the top steering wheel cover has to be removed to expose the switch's base. Make sure to pull the cover gently things certain tabs and plastic studs can brake in there. I think I broke one plastic piece on the inside of the top steering wheel cover but I notice that it has no effect on how it's held, it still can hold on well with the side tabs that mate with the bottom steering wheel cover anyways.

    You will notice the switch is held by two 25 screws one on top which is very easy to get to and one on the bottom which is VERY difficult to get to without removing the steering wheel.

    I cheated. I didn't remove the steering wheel. I purchased the smallest and thinnest mini ratchet I could find on the market.

    I purchased a T25 bit. I cut it almost to the notch that is needed to keep it in the mini ratchet, because space is so tight if the bit is not cut more than %40 in length you won't be able to fit the mini ratchet in that tight space to remove that torx screw.

    I initially used that mini ratchet setup to remove that initial torque, then I went in with a magnetic tip and long needle nose pliers. I picked up the screw.

    Then removed the cover under the guage cluster so I can get access to the wiring.

    There are 4 connections to the switch I think, observe them carefully, so that you find the notch on each one that you can push with a small flattip screw driver to release them, no need to break anything after all this hassle, take it easy and slow.

    Also make sure the wiring harness carrying all these connections doesn't fall through it won't be fun picking it up from down there in the chassis.

    Now once all the connections are back in place (all connectors are unique nothing can be mixed up or flipped around if it's in it's in the right place) we need to worry about that bottom torx screw.

    Keep in mind I'm a cheater, remember I cheated at the begining. It might be too tough and tight spaced in there to get the the torx screw back in, so the price I pay is I'm not going to use it, well big deal, what I did is that I got the thickest cable tie I could manage to fit through the back of the hole and go through the signal switch screw hole at the bottom and used it as a screw in replacement, cable tie goes through column hole and switch hole, goes around real tight and boom done. Make sure it's really as tight as can be, keep in mind it should be as tight as that torx screw was so that you don't end up with any wiggling when you use it, my switch feels as firm as it was when it was screwed in.

    And the cable tie works much better than the scew in that position. At least should I ever need to replace that switch ever again, I simply just cut out the cable tie and remove the top screw and it's game over for that non-functional switch.

    Hope you find this info helpful, I posted this long post because when I needed help I couldn't figure out where to find info on this and had to just figure it out on my own, but now you and others don't have to at least, so cheers!.

    Peace
    Nice, I might have to give that a try.

  6. #5
    glasco1906 is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): 2006 Cadillac CTS
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Age
    44
    Posts
    1
    This must be a common issue. It is happening to my 2006 cts now. Thanx so much f or the detail explanation!

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