Cadillac CTS First Generation Forum - 2003 - 2007 Discussion, 2003 cts keyless entry doesnt work in Cadillac CTS Coupe, Sport Sedan and Sport Wagon Forums; Ive owned this car for almost 4 years. I bought the car without key fobs. I then purchased fobs and ...
Ive owned this car for almost 4 years. I bought the car without key fobs. I then purchased fobs and had the dealer program them. Heres the problem:
The fobs only work under 2 conditions.
1.when the key is in the ignition and accessory power is on/ car is on.
2. For exactly 30 seconds after the car is shut off, which coincides with exactly how long the car retains power to devices in the car.
after 30 seconds, or any other time the keyless entry doesnt work. The dealer looked at it and reprogrammed the key fob like 10 times that day, and ultimately said they are not interested in looking into it further because "its stupid to waste time and money on making the fobs work"
So, for the last 4 years ive just been dealing with no keyless entry and i hate it. I hope someone here can help me. Ive searched everything I possibly can too.
I went out to check all the fuses under the rear seat, got real cold, real fast so didnt pull any fuses just looked at what each go to. ill check them this weekend in the shop. I stuck my key in the ignition and clicked to the first position... key fob buttons all work like they should. click ignition back to off, pull key out, shut door and hit lock... works. but after 30 seconds--nothing. Its like there is a module that should be getting power all the time but is only getting power when key is in the on position. wierd.
UPDATE... if i keep clicking the lock button on the fob, every cpl seconds... the car will keep locking for over 5 minutes. as soon as i stop hitting lock- i count to approx 20-25 seconds and i hear a clicking in the driver side trunk, THEN the key fob no longer works.. hope this helps.
ok so i tore apart my entire rear of my car, minus the head liner. rear seats came out, rear deck, trunk carpeting. I could not find any module that is specific for the keyless entry, and the gm dealer claimed the RIM (rear integration module) is the part for the keyless entry. Soooo....
after turning off the car, i get out and shut the door. click the lock button on fob and the doors lock. I count to 22 seconds and the AMP in the trunk clicks (which coincides with the headlights powering off)... that is the point at which my key fob stops working. I dont believe that the amp affects the fob, but i think that the same proccess that shuts power off to the amp, also shuts power off to the device incharge of my keyless entry. I dont believe its the RIM because when opening the doors all the rear lights comeon but the fob doesnt work. I found that the only thing I can do to make the fob never work is to unplug the RIM... but the rear half of the car doesnt work then either... so i dont know if the RIM is actually the problem or not. I do know that WHATEVER IS SHUTTING POWER OFF TO THE AMP, IS ALSO SHUTTING POWER OFF TO WHATEVER MODULE FOR THE KEYLESS ENTRY..damn caps.... I hope someone here can help, please.
The module that takes commands from the remote is above the rear light. The bolt that holds it is actually in the light housing. This module also receives commands for the Tire Pressure Monitoring System, if installed in the tires and the radio is set up for it. It also controls the FM antenna.
i dont have the tire pressure system.. i was told that if i dont have the tpms, then the keyless entry is controlled by something else. but if that is incorrect, then i also am not having any issues with my fm radio at all. Since ive last replied to this thread, ive read multiple places that the RIM does house the RCDLR... is this true?
i guess im at a loss where to start and what to start replacing. maybe i should check voltage at the fm receiver while the locks are working and then see if its losing power..
According to my service manual. The tire pressure, fm radio antenna and keyless are all in that one unit above the headliner. Though this is for an 06, 03 maybe different. Also the fuse that controls this unit, is in the rear fuse box and labeled as TRUNK DR RELEASE, 10amp fuse. Which is located in the driver's side fuse box.
I would check to see if that fuse is getting constant power. First determine if your fuse is the same as mine. Remove the fuse and see if your keyless remotes stop functioning right away. If they do, put the fuse back and just for ha ha's make sure the remotes work.
If that is the fuse, then put a meter on one peg and the other probe on ground some where in the car. Close the doors and watch to see if the voltage disapears after the 30 seconds or whatever time you say the remotes stop working.
If that is the case, then you'll have to figure out how to jerry rig a wire from a constant ON to power that fuse. You may have to totally remove that fuse and determine what peg is the device. Grab the constant on, attache a wire to and from the fuse. Then to that peg that goes to the device.
I wouldn't want to jab a wire into the area with the fuse to keep it running all the time. As you maybe backing feeding voltage to another device that is on another fuse that is supposed to be off after you remove the key. This is why I would totally remove the fuse and such.
i dont have issues making it work with rigging constant power to it. good idea. so completely remove the fuse for that antenna device. figure out which side actually goes to that unit, and feed only the one side with constant power.. correct? just want to make sure im following with you.
i gotta ask, if i do this and the system still doesnt work after the 20 seconds... then the next option would be the RIM?
Let me put it this way, don't want to confuse either one of us again. lol
1) Determine if that fuse is the correct one for your car. If yes, go to step 2.
2) Determine which peg is the actual device that the fuse services, the module that the fuse protects.
3) Attach a wire, I would use a solder-less terminator, to that peg.
4) Attache the other end to the fuse that you removed.
5) Find and attach another wire to a constantly on wire, most likely the wires coming into the fuse box.
6) Attached the other end of that constant wire to the other side of the fuse. So that the module is still protected by the fuse, but stays on all the time.
But realize this, hopefully that fuse only serves that module. Other wise you might be finding your self with a dead battery. So be prepared for that, keep jumper cables in the trunk.
well if it were the case that other modules might be on the same fuse, and they shouldnt get constant power so the power through that fuse gets shut off.... then my wireless module would also get shut off just by the nature of the system..... so im gonna guess that it shouldnt have other modules on it.. but we will see. ill report back when i try/ check all this. thanks!!
ok, so i swapped out the rear integration module. No change. i then checked the rear fuse box that has the trunk release fuse in it. That circuit always has 12volts running through it even when the keyless entry stops working. If i pull that fuse, the keyless entry doesnt work, but the fm antenna still does as im still able to get radio stations. So im not sure where to go next. I dont wanna throw 100$ and 3hrs labor in replacing the antenna module only to get the same result.
ok, well if that antenna module was the culprit, wouldnt it NOT work? i mean, why would it work untill right when the amp in the trunk clicks? I just feel that something is shutting off power.. Id love to study the actual wiring diagram and trace where wires run. but i dont have a wiring diagram.