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Six quik reference steps on how to replace you 3.6 spark plugs and coil over plugs

28K views 58 replies 24 participants last post by  2005CTSGUY 
#1 ·
First I removed my 3.6 engine cover, and unplugged battery cables...


Second, I remove air filter coupler, all vaccum hoses, brackets and bolts, easy to do. Most, if not all were 10mm and 13mm sockets...


Third, *to remove the bolt on the intake in the back passenger side, I found it easiest to remove the cabin air filter cover, then removed the plastic tray bolted to the fire wall. 2 nuts, 1 screw, and its off...


Still Third, and its off, once off, the bolt is easy to remove and pull out...


Fourth, once all the hoses brackets and bolts are off the upper intake should pull right off (slowly) exposing all coil over plugs...


Fifth, in order to remove the coil over plugs I used a flat head screw driver to pop out the lock on the side, loosened the screw that holds then down and they pulled right out...(slowly)


Still fifth, coil over plug removed...


Sixth, I then replaced the spark plug (Autolite double platinum part: APP 5263) and reinserted the coil over plug and proceeded with the other five S plugs. An extension and 3/8th spark plug socket helps ; )...


Once I replaced all my spark plugs and coil overs I cleaned up, replaced the upper intake , hoses, brackets and bolts, cabin air fitler covers... and re hooked up my battery... Just some pics to help those thinking about doing so they dont feel its hard to do...
 
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#2 ·
Just did this a week or two ago, and I was actually going to do a write-up, but you pretty much nailed it in six steps. Really nothing to it.

All I would add is that you need to be pretty careful pulling up the intake so you don't damage the gasket(s) like I did.

+1 on pulling the cabin air box, also - makes getting to that back bolt MUCH easier.
 
#12 ·
I am sure there is a specific torque to tighten the bolts to and a specific sequence on which ones to tighten first...
But since at the time i did not know, I noticed that to remove them it did not require more effort than one arms strengh with a standard ratchet and thats because they have never been removed, to retighten them I tightened them as much as I could with that same arm if you know what im trying to say.
As far as in which order i retightened them did I a standard criss cross and from the rear of the intake then the front and back to the rear again. Kinda like what you would do with lug nuts on a tire.
as soon as I find the correct schematics I may go back and re do it, its fairly quick
 
#14 ·
I put anti seize on my spark plug threads before i put them back in... It was a special little squeeze packet that was labeled Spark plug anti-seize from Autozone it was a silver metalic looking liquid/paste. Should i remove them and clean it out? or why should we not use anti-seize ont them?
Thank you for the torque specs!
 
#23 ·
Great post. The photos helped make the job easy.

I started the job yesterday on my 2007 CTS. All went well until I removed the coil over the spark plug. The rubber boot remained on the spark plug when the coil was removed. I gently used long nose pliers to remove the boot and it ripped. At that point I ended the job. I had to replace the entire coil. When I went onto the next spark plug, you guessed it...the boot separated from the coil and remained on the spark plug. Obviously, no one used dialectric grease when these plugs were initially installed.

Is threre a special tool to use to remove the boots when they remain on top of the cylinder head? I tried to find replacement boots for the coils but Duralast and Bosch do not sell them. I do not want to replace all my coils.
 
#24 ·
UAL767 said:
Great post. The photos helped make the job easy.

I started the job yesterday on my 2007 CTS. All went well until I removed the coil over the spark plug. The rubber boot remained on the spark plug when the coil was removed. I gently used long nose pliers to remove the boot and it ripped. At that point I ended the job. I had to replace the entire coil. When I went onto the next spark plug, you guessed it...the boot separated from the coil and remained on the spark plug. Obviously, no one used dialectric grease when these plugs were initially installed.

Is threre a special tool to use to remove the boots when they remain on top of the cylinder head? I tried to find replacement boots for the coils but Duralast and Bosch do not sell them. I do not want to replace all my coils.
You can try to use electronic spray cleaner. It drys quick and may loosen the rubber boot from the plug. Lube helps!
 
#28 ·
lol, I had to look back at my own thread to remember exactly how to do it... My CEL came on yesterday and felt like misfiring... then the sputtering randomly stopped and started again this morning... and then stopped again this afternoon... "sheesh". Well, scanner read codes, p0203, p0303 same as yesterday. So im gonna check the spark plug and coil over on Cyl 3 and mabe swap them for another cylinder's to see if the code changes to that cylinder... : / Mabe I can take new pictures... any requests ?
 
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