The complete guide to 1st gen CTS Navigation unit installation.
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Cadillac CTS First Generation Forum - 2003 - 2007 Discussion, The complete guide to 1st gen CTS Navigation unit installation. in Cadillac CTS Coupe, Sport Sedan and Sport Wagon Forums; I have put together a definitive list of all the information we have on installing a double-din nav unit in ...
  1. #1
    The Raven's Avatar
    The Raven is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    The complete guide to 1st gen CTS Navigation unit installation.

    I have put together a definitive list of all the information we have on installing a double-din nav unit in the 2003-2007 Cadillac CTS while retaining the factory DIC. Included in this list are my own contributions along with the works of several other brave men who sacrificed time, expensive electronic components, and blood (from sharp metal edges) to bring you a complete integration procedure.

    Physical fabrication for in-dash mounting:

    Darkwingfrog Write-up: http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answe...dic/index.html

    Cadillac CTS Sound System wiring schematics:
    DIC and Base Amp: http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/pdf/wiring.pdf
    Bose Amp: http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/pdf/bose.pdf
    DIC Connector Pinout: http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/pdf/wiring.pdf

    Wiring Procedure (quick method):

    I have decided to list MJS's writeup first, and separate from my own because it occurred to me that there may be users out there who would like to make their install as simple as possible, foregoing all the extra work necessary to make every little detail work. If you are one of these people, the following method is exactly what you want. It's the quickest, easiest way to get a nav unit installed and working in the CTS.

    Installing your own aftermarket head unit is VERY easy and it’s not worth paying anyone else more than $100 to do the wiring IMO. If anyone is interested here is how you install and wire a Pioneer F-Series:

    1 – Splice the new head to the factory live or wire a new live if you prefer.

    2 – Ground the New head.

    3 – ACC (ignition) wire on the new head to brown(on mine) wire on the air-con controls.

    4 – Audio – Strip the factory audio harness back a little. Cut the factory audio wires about 3 inches from the plug, this leaves plenty of wire to rewire the factory head later if required. Take a good quality shielded RCA cable (monster or equivalent) cut about 18” off each end and strip back the wire until you have +/- wires. Take the RCA wires and carefully splice them to the harness end of the factory audio wire ( green, green, dark green and tan). It is important to get a really clean and shielded join because the RCA/audio cables pick up the old factory radio if the connections aren’t really good. Now plug the RCA cable to your new head.

    Now re-install everything but don’t plug the old audio plug into the factory head. Your audio now has two gains, the factory controls and the new heads volume control. I leave my Pioneer on maximum and control the volume with the steering wheel dial.

    Still works:
    DIC
    OnStar (all controls)
    Chimes
    Both factory volume controls (dash and steering wheel)
    Steering wheel buttons.
    Factory AMP, speakers and SUB.

    You Lose:
    XM (an aftermarket add-on is only $75)
    New head goes off with ignition NOT by opening the door. Not a problem for me because we rarely sit in a car without the engine on in Florida. You can probably get the RAP working but it is not an issue for me so I am not going to try.

    I would like to add that although the factory steering wheel controls do work, it is important to note that only the volume knob and mute button actually control the new nav unit. The "1, 2, 3, 4" buttons will now only control the HVAC and DIC functions.



    Wiring Procedure (complete method):
    This is my own write-up, however to get to this point I had lots of help. MJS, Kingoftypos, and Gaetano all contributed in some way to the information contained in this procedure.

    For this method, you will need the following items:
    - PAC steering wheel control adapter (ex: SWI-PS for Pioneer and Sony units)
    - PAC OS-2CTS integration adapter (you can omit this if you want to use the ACC key position to signal the unit instead of having Retained Accessory Power)
    - 2006-07 CTS-V steering wheel control set (harness not needed)
    - 18AWG stranded wire (red, black, yellow)
    - 22AWG stranded wire (orange, purple)
    - Precision soldering iron

    You have two options for giving your unit a turn-on signal (the wire usually marked ACC on aftermarket unit harnesses): The PAC OS-2CTS integration adapter, or the ACC (brown) wire in the CTS ignition harness.

    PAC Integration Adapter

    This device interfaces with the GM CANbus to facilitate Retained Accesory Power (unit will remain on with all car electronics for up to ten minutes after the ignition is turned off, or driver/passenger door is opened).

    MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE OS-2CTS WIRING DIAGRAM HANDY, AND STUDY IT WELL BEFORE YOU EVEN START THIS PROCEDURE!!

    http://archive.pac-audio.com/instructions/os-2cts.pdf

    ALSO, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CTS CONNECTOR PINOUT DIAGRAMS HANDY, AND STUDY THEM WELL BEFORE YOU EVEN START THIS PROCEDURE!!

    http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answe...connectors.pdf

    STEP 1: take the RAD-18 harness from the OS-2CTS and the harness(es) from your aftermarket unit and attach wires color-for-color. The RAD-18 is industry standard color-coded, so this part couldn't be simpler. Make sure you wire all four speakers, antenna, amp turn on, illumination, +12v constant, +12v ACC, and ground.

    STEP 2: take the OS-CTS harness (has two plastic connectors on the vehicle side, one black, one red), and cut off both the red and black connectors. Wire according to the diagram on the following page.



    With this adapter wired, you will be able to plug in your aftermarket unit and power it up.

    Alternate Option - Omitting PAC OS-2CTS adapter

    If you do not care to have functioning RAP or OnStar, you may omit the OS-2CTS adapter altogether.

    Wire according to below diagram:



    Turn on (ACC) power - In this case you will use the ACC wire off the CTS ignition harness (found under the steering column inside the driver's lower-dash kick panel. The panel is removed with three screws all the way at the bottom and three metal/plastic clips at the top. You can simply tap into the brown wire coming off the ignition harness (TAP, DO NOT CUT!) to supply turn-on power to your unit. The picture below shows (a blurry version of) this wire.



    Illumination - There are several places to get the illumination signal from. The orange wire coming off the turn signal stalk harness is one. If anyone knows of a better wire, let me know and I will add it here.

    Steering wheel controls

    The simplest way to do the install is to leave the factory steering wheel controls connected as they come, to the DIC. However this means that you cannot program the 1,2,3,4 buttons as track/folder/disc advance. Basically you only have volume and mute. You can purchase a PAC translator and use it with the factory controls, but then you can't use the volume knob. You would have to program two of the 1,2,3,4 buttons as volume, and the other two as track advance. Then you have a dead volume knob and mute button. The solution? CTS-V controls. Swap a set of CTS-V steering wheel controls onto the steering wheel. To do this you will have to completely rewire the factory steering wheel harness (wires behind airbag in wheel).

    Use the below wiring diagram for rewiring the stock CTS harness for the CTS-V controls.

    Ikera likes this.

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  3. #2
    The Raven's Avatar
    The Raven is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: The complete guide to 1st gen CTS Navigation unit installation.

    Tweaks and fixes

    Eliminating interference in the low-voltage lines to the amp

    Even if you very carefully wire your connections to the factory amp wires from the DIC to attempt to maintain shielding, you will sometimes still encounter static or clicking in the speakers. There is at least one way to completely remedy this situation once and for all. This is what I like to call "old school".

    Get yourself a good set of brand-name pre-amp RCA cables in a size long enough to make it to your trunk-mounted amp (16-20ft is generally the accepted average). I also recommend obtaining some pre-wired female RCA tails so you don't have to lop the plugs off your high-end set. If you have stereo crap laying around, you could also find a cheaper RCA cable to cut in half (even if it's a single cable, you would end up with two pre-wired plugs. If you go this route, you will need a two-channel coupler (see Radio Shack for this one) to join the wires to the tails.

    Plug the good cables directly into your aftermarket nav unit, and run them to the trunk. You can run through the center console and under the rear footwell center hump, under the back seat and into the trunk. You can also run to either side of the car and use the factory harness channels under your door sill trim. Whatever you prefer. Once you get to the trunk, you will need to cut into the factory harness at the amp to attach your RCA tails. Below is a pic of the factory amp harness.

    From left to right, the bright green is R-, the dark green is L-, the brown is L+, and the last bright green is R+.



    LED Button lighting not working after install.

    I was warned that this could be a problem after my install, so I paid careful attention to where I cut the DIC
    board, and noticed that when cutting the lower part of the board off (per the Cadillacfaq.com how-to), you would be cutting off the trace that feeds the right-side button LEDs (specifically the LCD right-side toggle programmable button, the clr/info button, and the swish above the selector knob), and a dropping resistor. I tried to find a way to cut the board so as to avoid this problem, but there was no way I could cut the board to preserve the circuit and still fit my nav unit in the enclosure. So I reluctantly cut, and ended up with the dead lights that others had warned me about. This really bothered me, so I decided to fix the problem. Here is the process.

    This pic shows the non-functioning LEDs...notice the right side of the LCD (two LEDs not working), and the right side daughtercard (four LEDs not working).



    Upon dissasembly, I traced out the circuit that feeds these LEDs. The red lines in this pic denote the traces that normally exist to feed the affected LEDs. The yellow box denotes the location of the dropping resistor for the lower
    LEDs on this circuit. You can clearly see how cutting where we need to cut to fit double-din units affects this circuit.


    The grey line in this pic shows the dead part of the circuit, the red represents the live parts. The orange shows my proposed jumper solution. It simply jumps supply power across the gap in the circuit, using two conveniently placed transfer holes already in the board.



    I used a jumper of 18AWG stranded wire, of which I cut off about half the strands to fit the holes (22-24AWG would be ideal and require no cutting). I then inserted the wire in the holes and soldered from the other side of the board. Be very careful with the soldering part...it is very easy to accidentally short out this trace because the common plate runs within 0.5mm of it. A precision low-wattage soldering iron and light-guage solder is a must.



    Not the greatest pic, but you can see the lights are back on. Mission accomplished.

    Ikera likes this.

  4. #3
    The Raven's Avatar
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    Re: The complete guide to 1st gen CTS Navigation unit installation.

    I started this two months ago, and i'm tired of looking at it on my desktop, so I posted it up, even though i'm not positive I covered everything. So let me know if I missed something and i'll add it in there.

  5. #4
    txbest1980's Avatar
    txbest1980 is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: The complete guide to 1st gen CTS Navigation unit installation.

    jimmy...please add this to our sticky

  6. #5
    King-German-Fool's Avatar
    King-German-Fool is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: The complete guide to 1st gen CTS Navigation unit installation.

    Wow, nice guide.

    I have a little question about the Navi Unit.
    I confounded the plus and minus wire on my car and connected the battery wrong, so plus to minus and vice versa.
    Since that my Navi Unit isn't working anymore, it seems there is no electricity. So I think there is a blown fuse somewhere.

    Do you know where all the fuses for the Navi Units are?
    Is there a fuse on the Unit itself?

  7. #6
    JimmyH is offline Cadillac Owners 10000+ Posts
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    Re: The complete guide to 1st gen CTS Navigation unit installation.

    Quote Originally Posted by txbest1980 View Post
    jimmy...please add this to our sticky
    done

  8. #7
    Y.G. is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: The complete guide to 1st gen CTS Navigation unit installation.

    Quote Originally Posted by The Raven View Post
    Installing your own aftermarket head unit is VERY easy and it’s not worth paying anyone else more than $100 to do the wiring IMO. If anyone is interested here is how you install and wire a Pioneer F-Series:

    1 – Splice the new head to the factory live or wire a new live if you prefer.

    2 – Ground the New head.

    3 – ACC (ignition) wire on the new head to brown(on mine) wire on the air-con controls.

    4 – Audio – Strip the factory audio harness back a little. Cut the factory audio wires about 3 inches from the plug, this leaves plenty of wire to rewire the factory head later if required. Take a good quality shielded RCA cable (monster or equivalent) cut about 18” off each end and strip back the wire until you have +/- wires. Take the RCA wires and carefully splice them to the harness end of the factory audio wire ( green, green, dark green and tan). It is important to get a really clean and shielded join because the RCA/audio cables pick up the old factory radio if the connections aren’t really good. Now plug the RCA cable to your new head.

    Now re-install everything but don’t plug the old audio plug into the factory head. Your audio now has two gains, the factory controls and the new heads volume control. I leave my Pioneer on maximum and control the volume with the steering wheel dial.

    Still works:
    DIC
    OnStar (all controls)
    Chimes
    Both factory volume controls (dash and steering wheel)
    Steering wheel buttons.
    Factory AMP, speakers and SUB.
    Is this really all I need to do to get an aftermarket head unit working with DIC?

  9. #8
    Invisible@Night's Avatar
    Invisible@Night is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: The complete guide to 1st gen CTS Navigation unit installation.

    So before starting this project I had found most of these and decided to go through with it. I started today and let me just say thank you for putting all this in one place. Saving me a ton of time.
    jrplz and DocAceZ like this.

  10. #9
    jrplz is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: The complete guide to 1st gen CTS Navigation unit installation.

    Quote Originally Posted by The Raven View Post
    I have put together a definitive list of all the information we have on installing a double-din nav unit in the 2003-2007 Cadillac CTS while retaining the factory DIC. Included in this list are my own contributions along with the works of several other brave men who sacrificed time, expensive electronic components, and blood (from sharp metal edges) to bring you a complete integration procedure.

    Physical fabrication for in-dash mounting:

    Darkwingfrog Write-up: http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answe...dic/index.html

    Cadillac CTS Sound System wiring schematics:
    DIC and Base Amp: http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/pdf/wiring.pdf
    Bose Amp: http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/pdf/bose.pdf
    DIC Connector Pinout: http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/pdf/wiring.pdf

    Wiring Procedure (quick method):

    I have decided to list MJS's writeup first, and separate from my own because it occurred to me that there may be users out there who would like to make their install as simple as possible, foregoing all the extra work necessary to make every little detail work. If you are one of these people, the following method is exactly what you want. It's the quickest, easiest way to get a nav unit installed and working in the CTS.

    Installing your own aftermarket head unit is VERY easy and it’s not worth paying anyone else more than $100 to do the wiring IMO. If anyone is interested here is how you install and wire a Pioneer F-Series:

    1 – Splice the new head to the factory live or wire a new live if you prefer.

    2 – Ground the New head.

    3 – ACC (ignition) wire on the new head to brown(on mine) wire on the air-con controls.

    4 – Audio – Strip the factory audio harness back a little. Cut the factory audio wires about 3 inches from the plug, this leaves plenty of wire to rewire the factory head later if required. Take a good quality shielded RCA cable (monster or equivalent) cut about 18” off each end and strip back the wire until you have +/- wires. Take the RCA wires and carefully splice them to the harness end of the factory audio wire ( green, green, dark green and tan). It is important to get a really clean and shielded join because the RCA/audio cables pick up the old factory radio if the connections aren’t really good. Now plug the RCA cable to your new head.

    Now re-install everything but don’t plug the old audio plug into the factory head. Your audio now has two gains, the factory controls and the new heads volume control. I leave my Pioneer on maximum and control the volume with the steering wheel dial.

    Still works:
    DIC
    OnStar (all controls)
    Chimes
    Both factory volume controls (dash and steering wheel)
    Steering wheel buttons.
    Factory AMP, speakers and SUB.

    You Lose:
    XM (an aftermarket add-on is only $75)
    New head goes off with ignition NOT by opening the door. Not a problem for me because we rarely sit in a car without the engine on in Florida. You can probably get the RAP working but it is not an issue for me so I am not going to try.

    I would like to add that although the factory steering wheel controls do work, it is important to note that only the volume knob and mute button actually control the new nav unit. The "1, 2, 3, 4" buttons will now only control the HVAC and DIC functions.



    Wiring Procedure (complete method):
    This is my own write-up, however to get to this point I had lots of help. MJS, Kingoftypos, and Gaetano all contributed in some way to the information contained in this procedure.

    For this method, you will need the following items:
    - PAC steering wheel control adapter (ex: SWI-PS for Pioneer and Sony units)
    - PAC OS-2CTS integration adapter (you can omit this if you want to use the ACC key position to signal the unit instead of having Retained Accessory Power)
    - 2006-07 CTS-V steering wheel control set (harness not needed)
    - 18AWG stranded wire (red, black, yellow)
    - 22AWG stranded wire (orange, purple)
    - Precision soldering iron

    You have two options for giving your unit a turn-on signal (the wire usually marked ACC on aftermarket unit harnesses): The PAC OS-2CTS integration adapter, or the ACC (brown) wire in the CTS ignition harness.

    PAC Integration Adapter

    This device interfaces with the GM CANbus to facilitate Retained Accesory Power (unit will remain on with all car electronics for up to ten minutes after the ignition is turned off, or driver/passenger door is opened).

    MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE OS-2CTS WIRING DIAGRAM HANDY, AND STUDY IT WELL BEFORE YOU EVEN START THIS PROCEDURE!!

    http://archive.pac-audio.com/instructions/os-2cts.pdf

    ALSO, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CTS CONNECTOR PINOUT DIAGRAMS HANDY, AND STUDY THEM WELL BEFORE YOU EVEN START THIS PROCEDURE!!

    http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answe...connectors.pdf

    STEP 1: take the RAD-18 harness from the OS-2CTS and the harness(es) from your aftermarket unit and attach wires color-for-color. The RAD-18 is industry standard color-coded, so this part couldn't be simpler. Make sure you wire all four speakers, antenna, amp turn on, illumination, +12v constant, +12v ACC, and ground.

    STEP 2: take the OS-CTS harness (has two plastic connectors on the vehicle side, one black, one red), and cut off both the red and black connectors. Wire according to the diagram on the following page.



    With this adapter wired, you will be able to plug in your aftermarket unit and power it up.

    Alternate Option - Omitting PAC OS-2CTS adapter

    If you do not care to have functioning RAP or OnStar, you may omit the OS-2CTS adapter altogether.

    Wire according to below diagram:



    Turn on (ACC) power - In this case you will use the ACC wire off the CTS ignition harness (found under the steering column inside the driver's lower-dash kick panel. The panel is removed with three screws all the way at the bottom and three metal/plastic clips at the top. You can simply tap into the brown wire coming off the ignition harness (TAP, DO NOT CUT!) to supply turn-on power to your unit. The picture below shows (a blurry version of) this wire.



    Illumination - There are several places to get the illumination signal from. The orange wire coming off the turn signal stalk harness is one. If anyone knows of a better wire, let me know and I will add it here.

    Steering wheel controls

    The simplest way to do the install is to leave the factory steering wheel controls connected as they come, to the DIC. However this means that you cannot program the 1,2,3,4 buttons as track/folder/disc advance. Basically you only have volume and mute. You can purchase a PAC translator and use it with the factory controls, but then you can't use the volume knob. You would have to program two of the 1,2,3,4 buttons as volume, and the other two as track advance. Then you have a dead volume knob and mute button. The solution? CTS-V controls. Swap a set of CTS-V steering wheel controls onto the steering wheel. To do this you will have to completely rewire the factory steering wheel harness (wires behind airbag in wheel).

    Use the below wiring diagram for rewiring the stock CTS harness for the CTS-V controls.


    Downloaded all the schematics from ( Prodemand ) thanks guys

  11. #10
    Spook is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    7

    Re: The complete guide to 1st gen CTS Navigation unit installation.

    OK, I'm confused. Can I get a factory GPS/radio/disc changer ... pull the old cd/radio head and "plug and play" in the factory "new'
    GPS/radio

  12. #11
    Flbandit98 is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): CTS
    Join Date
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    54
    Posts
    4

    Re: The complete guide to 1st gen CTS Navigation unit installation.

    All the links to the schematics are broken

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