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Cadillac CTS First Generation Forum - 2003 - 2007 Discussion, More double din install info... in Cadillac CTS Coupe, Sport Sedan and Sport Wagon Forums; As I have said over the past two weeks, I have been preparing for my third double-din install on my ...
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    More double din install info...

    As I have said over the past two weeks, I have been preparing for my third double-din install on my wife's 2007 CTS Sport. I chose to do this ONCE AGAIN because the first two installs left the car with issues that I was not happy with. I set out to fix EVERYTHING and make sure that it ALL works like it should, with no compromises.

    I got ALMOST there.

    We are all well aware of the how-tos on Cadillacfaq and they do cover the meat of the install, and if you follow them properly, you will have a solid (mostly) working install. However, you will be left with some compromises. To many this is not a problem, but to guys like me, some of these things are unacceptable. Here are the issues I had and how I fixed them.

    Interference (noise) in the low-level amp connection - I was fairly successful at fixing this problem by wrapping the splices (separately) in aluminum foil and then lots of tape. Initially, there was NO noise in the line at all, but after time the noise came back just enough to bug the crap out of me. I imagine just standard everyday vibration and the bumps that a car is naturally subject to may have shifted the splice just enough to compromise my shielding. My final solution? I went old-school and ran a 20ft. set of quad-shielded Monster Cable RCA cables to the trunk and made my splices at the amp itself. Below is a pic of where the wires are in the trunk-mounted amp harness. From left to right, the bright green is R+, the dark green is L+, the brown is L-, and the last bright green is R-.



    Steering wheel controls issues - The simplest way to do the install is to leave the factory steering wheel controls connected as they come, to the DIC. However this means that you cannot program the 1,2,3,4 buttons as track/folder/disc advance. Basically you only have volume and mute. May be no problem for alot of people, but I just can't live with that. You can purchase a PAC translator and use it with the factory controls, but then you can't use the volume knob. You would have to program two of the 1,2,3,4 buttons as volume, and the other two as track advance. Then you have a dead volume knob and mute button, which really bugs me too. My solution? CTS-V controls. I swapped a set of CTS-V steering wheel controls onto the steering wheel (you MUST get the CTS-V steering wheel HARNESS also (this is the harness that sits behind the airbag, in the actual wheel, not in the column)). Then I had eight separate buttons I could program using the PAC adapter. Worked great, and looked factory. Plus it added a nice touch of brushed aluminum, which I then expanded on (you'll see how later).

    Dead dash lights - This one is hit or miss. Lots of guys have done the install with no dead LEDs at all. But many have finished their install only to find that some of their backlight LEDs no longer worked. We did have a lengthy discussion about how the DIC board is to be cut to avoid this problem, but it appears that for some units, it's either cut too high or forget the installation completely because the unit won't fit. For these unfortunate folks, I suggest you review the following:

    http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...iscussion.html
    http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...all-right.html

    Retained Accessory Power - This was a big one for me because with the install as it stands on Cadillacfaq, you can only turn on your unit by switching the car to the RUN position. What if you want to catch a drive-in movie? You better have a battery charger with you! The problem is that thanks to GM's CANbus, there is no 12v turn-on wire to signal the unit. Thus the current standard is to tap into the wire that turns the AirCon unit on, and as you may realize, the AirCon is not on unless the car is running. I initially decided to purchase the PAC OS-2CTS unit, which is made for installs with NO DIC. I intended to use ONLY the power control function on the unit so I would (in theory) have RAP functionality. Well it worked, sorta. The nav unit turned on and off with RAP, just like it should. However the AMP now behaved very strangely. If I switched the car from ACC to RUN, or RUN to ACC, the amp would just turn off and not come back on until I turned the car off and back on again. I realized that the amp was getting dual signals from the DIC and PAC unit and was turning on and immediately off again. Obviously this could not work. In the end I decided to once again go old-school, and ran my 12v turn-on lead from the ACC wire (brown) in the ignition harness. Now I can at least turn the unit on by switching the key to the ACC position. Thus solving the drive-in problem. Pic of wire below (yes I know it's blurry but you can see the brown wire):



    Having TWO volume controls - Following the how-to also gives you TWO volume controls. The factory knob, and the knob/button on the aftermarket nav unit. At first this may seem like a really nitpicky complaint, until you realize that depending on how you approached the steering wheel control setup, there are some significant compromises here. IF you follow the how-to and simply keep your steering wheel controls factory, you will need to turn the volume on the nav unit all the way up, and just use the factory amp volume control. The problem here is that most aftermarket units modulate their cooling fan speed based on volume level, and having the unit at 100% volume all the time also means that it's cooling fan will be buzzing away ALL THE TIME, and YOU WILL HEAR IT, VERY CLEARLY. The other way is to turn the factory amp all the way up and use the unit's volume control, however if there is any interference in the low-level lines, you will hear it clearly, and whenever you take the car in for service, your volume will be all messed up by the service tech (know this one from personal experience). I remedied this by first using my interference fix as detailed above, then setting the amp volume at about 75% and removing the volume daughterboard completely (disconnect at ribbon cable, remove). Wala, one volume control that works perfectly.

    Miscellaneous - Despite the fact that i'm an electrical and automation engineer and as such, a wizard with electronics, I am not so much a pro at fabrication. Thus I was also not happy with my own physical install work, so I took this opportunity to clean it up. I tweaked the unit's angle to perfectly match the dash, and finally got around to covering up the fake-wood that my wife complained about since day one. I had great success with 3M's Di-NOC Carbon Fiber film in my STS-V, so I looked up the other offerings in that same line and decided to try their brushed aluminum. Holy crap is that stuff nice. Check it out:









    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



    I finally permanently solved the steering wheel control mess. As mentioned in the first post of this thread, with the standard how-to, you either have to live with only volume/mute controls on the steering wheel, or use a PAC translator unit and program only the 1/2/3/4 buttons, and then have a dead volume/mute wheel on the other side.

    I figured that I should be able to use the CTS-V controls set because there is no wheel, all controls are standard buttons and should program easily. Well just like anything else electronic, NOTHING IS EASY. As usual, GM's wiring setup makes no sense at all, and nothing works with anything else. After three failed attempts at this damn control setup, I decided to sit down and completely map out the steering wheel control logic to determine what the hell I would have to do to make everything work. Turns out that once I mapped everything out, the solution was pretty simple.

    This mod only applies to 2006-2007 CTS's, and you can only use 2006-2007 CTS-V control sets, which unfortunately are not that easy to find. I got mine off of ebay for $25 shipped, or you can order them through a parts supplier for $100+. The problem with the 2003-2005 cars is the fact that they had cruise control on the wheel, so the harnesses are totally different. Now i'm very confident that I can make a 2006-2007 CTS-V control set work on a 2003-2005 CTS, but I don't have the recon necessary to provide instruction. Anyone want to be the guinea pig for this? I do know that the 2003-2005 control sets (V or non) are useless to us.

    For this mod you will need the 2006-2007 CTS-V controls and trim, and you will need a PAC translator unit like the PAC SWI-PS (for Pioneer and Sony h/u's). YOU DO NOT NEED THE CTS-V HARNESS as I originally thought. Just follow the wiring diagram below to modify the stock CTS harness. You must first install the PAC unit per it's instructions, then modify the steering wheel harness. I also have the document in PDF format if anyone needs it.



    The resistance values of the Volume down, Track down, and Folder down buttons are very close, and sometimes the translator will have a tough time separating these buttons during programming. I did have to program mine three times but now everything works perfectly. I set up mine as follows:

    Track up button (right side): Next track
    Track down button (right side): Previous track
    Volume up button (right side): Volume up
    Volume down button (right side): Volume down

    Folder/right arrow button (left side outer): Next disc/folder
    Folder/left arrow button (left side outer): Previous disc/folder
    Folder/right arrow button (left side inner): Source
    TC off button (left side inner): Mute

    Here is a pic of my finished wheel so you can see exactly what control set you need. Note that this one has volume and track controls in place of the older sets cruise controls.

    Attached Images
    J W, J W, Nasty CTS and 2 others like this.

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    Kingoftypos is online now Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: More double din install info...

    I just geezed myself...

    Excellent job.

    I like to read a better explanation on the CTS-V steering wheel controls. I was gonna go that route before, until I read some where on here that someone else did it. But the wifey didn't like the fact that the "manual-matic" didn't work as it supposed it. I don't recall if it didn't allow her to shift, up/down, or it just didn't display the numbers in the dash board. So my question to you, does the shifting still work as it should?

    I didn't understand your problem with the powering the amp. But What I did was to snip one of the pink wires (I believe that is the color) from the back of the tri-color harness. Tap that wire in the the PAC audio device. I have perfect amp turn on/offs as well as the RAP feature. So my radio does not turn off until I open a door, or after 10 minutes. Which ever comes first. I also read on here that someone found a relay in the passenger side fuse box that has the RAP feature and he tapped into that. Of course this is after my install, so I didn't go back to find out. I don't know if it actually says "RAP" on the relay, or it just behaves like the RAP does.

    Either case, what you could really do, since you are into electronics like I am. You could take apart the factory amp and use the internal relay. Since you'll need the factory radio on to power the factory amp, via the CANbus of course. But the factory amp uses an internal relay to power itself. Only problem here, is that if you leave your head lights on(even though they are automatic) the amp will turn on and do it's bong, even though your key is out and door open.

    I also like to help out with the area where the volume knob on the factory radio use to be. I see that you can still see the indentation of the whole of the volume knob. My idea is to take a wooden dole(spelling) and get it to fit perfectly into that whole diameter wise. Then sand it down to conform to the shape of the radio. Puddy and sand if needed for a perfectly smooth surface. Then reapply the brush aluminum.

    KOT

    PS, picture of the steering wheel please.

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    Re: More double din install info...

    Quote Originally Posted by Kingoftypos View Post
    I like to read a better explanation on the CTS-V steering wheel controls. I was gonna go that route before, until I read some where on here that someone else did it. But the wifey didn't like the fact that the "manual-matic" didn't work as it supposed it. I don't recall if it didn't allow her to shift, up/down, or it just didn't display the numbers in the dash board. So my question to you, does the shifting still work as it should?
    I'll get you a pic tomorrow. The problem with the Manual shifting is with the CTS-V cluster, not the CTS-V steering wheel controls. The controls have nothing to do at all with the transmission or it's controller. You just need the cts-v steering wheel bezel with controls, and the CTS-V steering wheel harness, which is a small, three plug harness that sits behind the airbag. It is $36 through GM Parts direct. Once you do that swap, you just need to tap a PAC adapter into the steering wheel control wire that goes to the DIC and program.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kingoftypos View Post
    I didn't understand your problem with the powering the amp. But What I did was to snip one of the pink wires (I believe that is the color) from the back of the tri-color harness. Tap that wire in the the PAC audio device. I have perfect amp turn on/offs as well as the RAP feature. So my radio does not turn off until I open a door, or after 10 minutes. Which ever comes first. I also read on here that someone found a relay in the passenger side fuse box that has the RAP feature and he tapped into that. Of course this is after my install, so I didn't go back to find out. I don't know if it actually says "RAP" on the relay, or it just behaves like the RAP does.
    Why have I never heard of this method before? I've been in and out of every single double-din related thread I could possibly find over the last year and never heard of this. Can you get me more information? Like pics or at least the exact wires so I can lay it out? I want to get these solutions posted together so that future installers will have this stuff and not have to experiment like we did.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kingoftypos View Post
    I also like to help out with the area where the volume knob on the factory radio use to be. I see that you can still see the indentation of the whole of the volume knob. My idea is to take a wooden dole(spelling) and get it to fit perfectly into that whole diameter wise. Then sand it down to conform to the shape of the radio. Puddy and sand if needed for a perfectly smooth surface. Then reapply the brush aluminum.
    I tried that. Wood cannot be used. Di-NOC conforms perfectly to ANYTHING. So the woodgrain would show through clear as day. It conforms so well, you can actually make out the pores in the wood. I am going to make plastic plugs actually. I just didn't have the time today and my wife needs her car, so that will have to wait.

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    Re: More double din install info...

    Quote Originally Posted by The Raven View Post
    Retained Accessory Power In the end I decided to once again go old-school, and ran my 12v turn-on lead from the ACC wire (brown) in the ignition harness. Now I can at least turn the unit on by switching the key to the ACC position. Thus solving the drive-in problem. Pic of wire below (yes I know it's blurry but you can see the brown wire):
    i have been tryin to google this for hours and did not see it posted here. i didnt think it would bother me that much but it actually does. so you tapped the brown wire from the ignitin harness and ran that to where exactly. i know i know i really get lost with all these terms but please can you dumb it down a lil for me. or maybe if anyone else gets it can you dumb it down for me please??

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    Re: More double din install info...

    Quote Originally Posted by nownas2 View Post
    i have been tryin to google this for hours and did not see it posted here. i didnt think it would bother me that much but it actually does. so you tapped the brown wire from the ignitin harness and ran that to where exactly. i know i know i really get lost with all these terms but please can you dumb it down a lil for me. or maybe if anyone else gets it can you dumb it down for me please??
    It depends on what unit you have. With the Pioneer AVIC units, all you have to do is tap into the brown wire on the ignition harness and run that to the ACC wire (red) on the new unit harness. The AVICs have built in relays, so that wire does not have a significant load. On the older style units, where the red wire is the constant power, you would have to use the yellow (IGN) wire, and in that case you will need a relay.

    What unit do you have?

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    Re: More double din install info...

    Raven how is the sound quality now that you tapped into right by the amp? I get some static in mine and I hate it. Which monster audio RCA's did you use?

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    Re: More double din install info...

    Quote Originally Posted by The Raven View Post
    It depends on what unit you have. With the Pioneer AVIC units, all you have to do is tap into the brown wire on the ignition harness and run that to the ACC wire (red) on the new unit harness. The AVICs have built in relays, so that wire does not have a significant load. On the older style units, where the red wire is the constant power, you would have to use the yellow (IGN) wire, and in that case you will need a relay.

    What unit do you have?
    i have clarion vx400.. i have yellow 12v and the red acc... i have the red connected to the brown wire from the A/C. so are you saying i have to have that red acc wire from my head unit going to both A/C brown wire AND the ignition harness brown wire? or just ignition harness brown wire?

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    Re: More double din install info...

    Quote Originally Posted by ride_002000 View Post
    Raven how is the sound quality now that you tapped into right by the amp? I get some static in mine and I hate it. Which monster audio RCA's did you use?
    i have the same static and been reading around here and appearantly all yolu have to do is buy a noise isolator like this one http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-SNI1...2485233&sr=8-1 and your good to go. i do have another Q about this tho. will any isolater work? i was gunna go to frys and get this one http://www.frys.com/product/5276237?...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG will this work the same?

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    Re: More double din install info...

    Quote Originally Posted by ride_002000 View Post
    Raven how is the sound quality now that you tapped into right by the amp? I get some static in mine and I hate it. Which monster audio RCA's did you use?
    Sound quality is much improved. There is absolutely no noise of any kind to begin with, and I really feel like I gained some volume, which would show that there is definitely some loss in the factory setup. I have no idea what the preamp voltage on the factory system is, but it could actually be higher than the common 2V or 4V in aftermarket units. But comparing 4v to 4v in my case, I feel like I have a bigger amp now that I ran the RCA's all the way back.

    The cables I used are from 1998 (back in the day when I was really into car audio), and are purple. Outside of that I can't offer much info because the stickers on the plugs have long since fallen off.

    Quote Originally Posted by nownas2
    i have clarion vx400.. i have yellow 12v and the red acc... i have the red connected to the brown wire from the A/C. so are you saying i have to have that red acc wire from my head unit going to both A/C brown wire AND the ignition harness brown wire? or just ignition harness brown wire?
    Disconnect the (Clarion unit) ACC wire from the AirCon unit and connect it to the brown wire from the ignition. DO NOT CUT the brown wire on the ignition harness, use a tap like I did in my picture.

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    Re: More double din install info...

    Quote Originally Posted by The Raven View Post
    Disconnect the (Clarion unit) ACC wire from the AirCon unit and connect it to the brown wire from the ignition. DO NOT CUT the brown wire on the ignition harness, use a tap like I did in my picture.
    Gotcha! thank you sir. whats the easiest way to get to it? does the panel below the steering wheel pop just pop off or screw off?

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    Re: More double din install info...

    Quote Originally Posted by nownas2 View Post
    Gotcha! thank you sir. whats the easiest way to get to it? does the panel below the steering wheel pop just pop off or screw off?
    Four screws at the bottom of the panel (where it connects to the under-dash cover), and two clips at the top, where you can just pull straight out.

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    Re: More double din install info...

    I had purchased a noise filter and it did nothing for me, it actually made it worse. Im going to look for some high end cables and try what you did raven.

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    Re: More double din install info...

    Quote Originally Posted by ride_002000 View Post
    I had purchased a noise filter and it did nothing for me, it actually made it worse. Im going to look for some high end cables and try what you did raven.
    Noise filters are, just like antenna boosters, mostly a gimmick. They do remove alot of noise, but thanks to their design, they actually introduce their own noise which is often worse than the noise you wanted to remove to begin with.

    Antenna boosters really just amplify the entire existing signal, which means you just get louder static.

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    Re: More double din install info...

    hey raven, none of my DIC buttons work i kind of figured i cut to close to the ribbon, is that the case or is it somehting i can fix? i think i can deal without having them work because i still get the alerts/warnings i just cant clear them right away and thankfully i set everything up just how i like it before i did this mod.

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    Re: More double din install info...

    very nice work. Myself, i liked the fake wood.

    and i never did use the 1-4 buttons. i could never remember how they were assigned, so I just stopped using them

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