Phase 2, 3, and 4 Nav install done. WOO-HOO!!! It ALL works!

[tomm]

Yes but I am going to test another method to get the sound using an external amplifier. The NAV unit has audio outputs for the navigation sound so there should be no reason why if I purchased a small 3-4 watt 12v audio amplifier (They are very small 2-3 inches) and connected a 3" speaker in the center speaker location that you should not get sound without the bose system.

[odysseus]

platctsnj,

If you've already got the Bose system, you don't need any of those connectors. The only one needed is VCIM (OnStar box) connector C3 (don't have the part number handy here at the office) and matching terminals, which is not installed at the factory. It's a 16 pin connector, but only 3 terminals will be used. What's needed is terminal pins for the Nav connector (could use the VW01R, but its much cheaper to simply buy the terminals), and the Bose amp (C3).

Finding numbers for only the terminal pins has been the challenge. Tomm's suggestion to go to power and signal is a good one. They carry the GM part numbers for the connectors. With a little research I have found some of the terminals separately. I'm going to get all of my connector numbers from the Helm manual when I get home tonight and see if I can look up and order all of the terminals in bulk.

As far as using 22 gauge twisted shielded pair goes, that is what the schematics call for (the zig/zag symbol overlayed on the two harnesses), and yes, you can get it pretty much anywhere. Each run is about 13 feet, and twisting goes a long way to reducing noise in the wire. I will agree that you certainly don't need MIL spec wire, although it's typically higher grade copper and insulation than normal wire. You'll also need to add ground wires to the shielding, to insert into the Nav (C1 pin 2) and the VCIM (C3 pin 5). We use solder sleeve shrink pigtails on all of our shields from Tyco. They run about $1 each at Mouser.

I'll document the whole thing with sources, part numbers, and assembly instructions (with pictures) as soon as I can get all the information together, parts in hand, and I get the first one completed (it's simply waiting for the proper terminals right now). If anyone wants to help with part numbers, go for it. My experience in the electronics industry is that locating and buying parts is not an insignificant part of a one-off project.

[Terran]

I understand that the 22 guage twisted shielded pair wire can be found most anywhere. I believe that, but what I'm having trouble with is actually finding it. Not knowing much about the electrical world, the problem is that places like mouser.com, digikey.com, have SO many kinds of wire, it's hard to know what's what. No wire flat-out says 22AWG shielded, twisted pair. They say plenum or multi-conductor or have other weird descriptions.

Is there any additional specific description I should be looking for? If you could, give an example site and part number, so I know what to look for. I need 6 different colors, so citing a source with multiple color choices would be great.

Thanks so much.

Also, I've faxed powerandsignal.com about terminals. I gave them the GM numbers for the connectors (from my Service Manual), but they've not responded yet. Here's hoping they pull through soon!

[tomm]

Originally Posted by Terran

I understand that the 22 guage twisted shielded pair wire can be found most anywhere. I believe that, but what I'm having trouble with is actually finding it. Not knowing much about the electrical world, the problem is that places like mouser.com, digikey.com, have SO many kinds of wire, it's hard to know what's what. No wire flat-out says 22AWG shielded, twisted pair. They say plenum or multi-conductor or have other weird descriptions.

Is there any additional specific description I should be looking for? If you could, give an example site and part number, so I know what to look for. I need 6 different colors, so citing a source with multiple color choices would be great.

Thanks so much.

Also, I've faxed powerandsignal.com about terminals. I gave them the GM numbers for the connectors (from my Service Manual), but they've not responded yet. Here's hoping they pull through soon!

Power and Signal will probably have to sell you at minimum quantities. This could mean 1000 terminal pins, etc. Twisted pair cable was used for data and then telco companies starting using it. It is sold on a spool and there are 8 wires (4 Pairs or 2 wires twistered together) The closer the twist the better the thoughput. Go to any computer store and you will find it.

[odysseus]

Jameco sells Belden 22 AWG shielded TP wire in a 100' reel for under $20. It should work fine. Part number is 233111cc. Belden part number is 8451-100-10. It's for Audio, Control, and Instrumentation, so it should work just fine. I happen to have a 1000' spool of the stuff, although my prototype harness was teflon wrapped MIL-spec wire, which is totally unnecessary (I just happened to have some). The nice thing about the Belden wire over the MIL-spec wire is that it has a drain wire under the sheild, making a shrink splice unnecessary.

I think the Power and Signal website is for Delphi products. The VCIM is made by Motorola. The non-nav radio is made by VDO. I couldn't find the radio connector on their site, although the Bose one is.

[Terran]

OK. The wire has been taken care of.

Now, I've been thinking about terminals again. Do they really have to be the exact same factory terminal? As cheap as they are, I don't see why just picking out a few in bulk from a local hardware, car audio, or electronics shop wouldn't work just as well. It'd certainly take much less time to research. They're all conductors, so the only thing that would matter is the terminal's correct size and the correct shape (spade, round, etc.).

My project involves wiring up to Splice Pack SP303 (which is a class 2 databus hub), and I'm concerned about using a terminal with a "wrong" spec....if that's even possible. With the databus being so important, I don't want to screw anything up...especially since the airbags are controlled by it.

[tomm]

Originally Posted by Terran

OK. The wire has been taken care of.

Now, I've been thinking about terminals again. Do they really have to be the exact same factory terminal? As cheap as they are, I don't see why just picking out a few in bulk from a local hardware, car audio, or electronics shop wouldn't work just as well. It'd certainly take much less time to research. They're all conductors, so the only thing that would matter is the terminal's correct size and the correct shape (spade, round, etc.).

My project involves wiring up to Splice Pack SP303 (which is a class 2 databus hub), and I'm concerned about using a terminal with a "wrong" spec....if that's even possible. With the databus being so important, I don't want to screw anything up...especially since the airbags are controlled by it.

The terminal pins are not generic and they are made to lock in the particular connector. You can probably get away with finding a terminal to fit the opening but it will probably not lock in place. Which part number connector are you missing the terminals on?

[Terran]

Originally Posted by tomm

The terminal pins are not generic and they are made to lock in the particular connector. You can probably get away with finding a terminal to fit the opening but it will probably not lock in place. Which part number connector are you missing the terminals on?

I did hear that only the correct terminals will lock into place. That's why I still have my doubts about buying "just any old terminal" at some store. But the prospect of buying minimum quantities from powerandsignal.com makes me wonder which way is more worthwhile.

The connectors that I need terminals for are:

15394150 (16-Way F Micro 64) is the connector for the Digital Radio Receiver.

963120-1 (8-Way F Junior Timer Type) is connector C3 for the non-Bose Radio. But I am considering buying the Scosche VW01R harness so that I can use the terminals from that (as proposed by Miscreant on ctsowners.com).

7283-1100 (10-Way F) is the connector for Splice Pack SP303.

[No part Number] The Joint Connector in the Left Rear Fuse Box.

Pictures of the Splice Pack and the Left Rear Fuse Box connector can be found in this zip file.

It'll be a challenge, regardless of which route I choose.

[tomm]

Why do you need to connect to the fusebox and the sp303?

As for the Scosche VW01R, I purchased one of those any have extra pins from it hanging around if you want a few.

[Terran]

Fusebox for Power and SP303 for integration with Class 2.

I'm making the wire harness that is typically used for factory-installed XM. See this thread for more details:

http://cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38695

With the SoundGate product mentioned in there, I'll be able to use that connector to add aftermarket SIRIUS with a Factory-Installed look and functionality. Since my car did not have XM installed, I do not have the wire harness for it. So that harness needs to be created and spliced into the car.

As for the VW01R, thanks for the offer. Send an email to thelib17 AT hotmail, and we can discuss terms.

[tomm]

Ahhh.. That makes sence, I did not know that you did not have the XM option. Even if you found a factory XM unit at a salvage yard and installed it the dealer would still need to program it into the DIC.

I guess you will still need to have them re-program your radio if you can somehow manage to get a serius unit installed because the radio would still need to think that XM was connected to get the source to change.

I wish you the best of luck with the Sirius mod and if you somehow get it working let me know and I will do the same since I dont really like XM. As for VW01R pins just PM me with your address and I'll sent it off regular mail. I have around 4 or 5 pins with the leads left.

[Terran]

Right. I've got to get the DIC reprogrammed once everything is installed. I received a notice a while ago saying that they need to reprogram my DIC anyway (some sort of recall), so that should kill 2 birds with one stone. IF I can convince the tech to program it for XM...afterall, he may actually lookup my options and see that it wasn't installed. Or the glaring fact that there's no XM antenna on the roof. hehe. We'll see what happens.

Thanks for the luck...I'm sure I'll need it. A buddy of a buddy of mine is a professional car audio installer, so I'm sure he'll help out, if necessary.

I'll keep track of what I do and let you know if everything works out.

As for sending you a PM, I can't. It sends me to a page that says:

Terran, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:

1. Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
2. If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation.

Do I have to be a paying subscriber to get that functionality? If not, how do I get the proper permissions?

Thanks.

[mrc00l88]

Originally Posted by tomm

Why do you need to connect to the fusebox and the sp303?

As for the Scosche VW01R, I purchased one of those any have extra pins from it hanging around if you want a few.

id be interested in 1 extra pin if you still have 1. depending on where you are in jersey i can pick it up. please let me know, thanks.

[whosyadadie02]

installing a factory navi in a non navi cts, would that void the warranty or should be fine ?