Changing Rear Wheel Bearing (Hub Assembly)

gaugeguru · #1 (**permalink**) 09-08-09, 10:37 PM

Hi All,

I have been attempting to replace the Passenger Rear Wheel Hub Assembly and have have not been able to remove my rotor. It appears to be rusted to the hub assembly.

I have removed the single torx screw through the rotor and the brake caliper but the rotor is just stuck. I sprayed it with liquid wrench to dissolve the rust and I've been hitting it with a hammer to break the rust free but no luck. I even went back a day later after letting the liquid wrench sit in but it still is not working.

Am I missing something? Do I need to do something with the parking brake too?

Any help or advice would be really appreciated!

BadAV · #2 (**permalink**) 09-08-09, 11:18 PM

Keep soaking it with penetrant as it takes some time to work all the way through if it's rusted really hard; I like PB Blaster because I've always had good luck with it. Keep smacking it with a hammer as close to the hub/rotor junction as you can. The parking brake should be off. You could also try heating things up with a propane torch - it might do the trick. Stuck rotors can be very persistent.

ghettomike · #3 (**permalink**) 09-09-09, 12:54 AM

is your e-brake on?
the cts has a drum style e brake inside the disk
my jimmy is similar, i couldnt get it off so i used a 3 hook puller and got it off in about 5 min...you just have to get a big enough one...i found 1 that was almost the right size but not quite so i used 2 hooks insted of 3 and used the links from the 3rd to make the other 2 links longer..this made the puller perfect but you have to hold it from tipping...not that hard, just have 1 person hold it as you crank it.
also i dont want to state the sometimes not-so-obvious but there is a scrue that holds on the rotor as well

gaugeguru · #4 (**permalink**) 09-09-09, 02:00 AM

Thanks for your quick response...

I hit the rotor with a hammer in the rusted area for over 1 hour. I'm really tempted to just wack the rotor from behind really hard but I know that's not recommended.

I wonder how GM would do it.

BadAV · #5 (**permalink**) 09-09-09, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gaugeguru

Thanks for your quick response...

I hit the rotor with a hammer in the rusted area for over 1 hour. I'm really tempted to just wack the rotor from behind really hard but I know that's not recommended.

I wonder how GM would do it.

It does sound like your e-brake shoes may be holding the rotor in place. I've not looked at the e-brake on the CTS but from ghettomike's description it sounds like the one on my Avalanche (which sucks, btw). If it's like regular drum brakes you should be able to see a star wheel through an access hole on the back side of the rotor backing plate that you can use to can back off the brake shoe clamping if that's what the issue is.

Rekkid · #6 (**permalink**) 09-10-09, 04:53 PM

It does sound like your e-brake is grabbing it. I'll second the notion of using a three hook puller, within 30 seconds you'll have it off. Of course if your e-brake is grabbing, you may have to reassemble it afterwards. A 6" three hook puller here in Canada cost me $25 at Princess Auto.

ghettomike · #7 (**permalink**) 09-10-09, 04:57 PM

Or you can do the free loner tool at part source...you just leave a creditcard deposit.
That's a really good price for the one you got at princess auto..I may go buy one.

josney · #8 (**permalink**) 09-10-09, 05:54 PM

yep...gear puller.

Spyke · #9 (**permalink**) 09-10-09, 06:21 PM

gauge, i had the same conclusion than others and you didn't replied to this one: is your e-brake on?

Dont use your e-brake otherwise you'll do everything to take off the rotor and it wont move a bit

gaugeguru · #10 (**permalink**) 09-11-09, 12:55 AM

Hi, Thanks for all the replies but I made sure the E brake was not engaged.