As long as the GM specs in your owner's manual are followed you're good. Mobel 1, Royal Purple, AMSOIL, Pennzoil and several other synthetic brands all meet the GM Specs for my engine. The one that goes on Sale is the winner! Condums are optional..
lol true, the 1 on sale is the winner...lol
i wait for a good synthetic to go on sale and buy enough for 2 changes..then i dont have to worry about being late or missing a sale.
My garage current has 2 five quarts of 10W30 containers for the truck and SUV and I have a case of 24 quarts 5W30 for the Caddy and Tbird, all synthetic. Every time I change I start looking for sales. Oh and BTW, don't get your oil from an automotive parts store as the prices are wacked. I get mine from Wally Mart and eBay (when I can find it free shipping) and save $8.00 to $10.00 a change. I've been also thinking about doing the 5 gallon container but I'm not too sure I can left it anymore.
Usually when something goes on sales its because its been sitting on the shelf for a while. Seems to me some waste a lot of time shopping for deals. You end up spending a dime to save a nickel. Or you end up buying some other crap you would have never bought had you not gone to WM to buy the oil on sale.
I buy a a case a yr and done with it. Every fall I order a case of Amsoil SSO 0W-30 and 2 oil filters (08 GMC & 05 CTS), 3-5 days later the UPS guys drops it off and I can forget about it for another year.
Last edited by Z71; 06-23-08 at 10:24 AM.
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I've only run M1 in my CTS & I don't have any complaints, but it was just the opposite in my Camaro. It drank M1 like I drink Captain & Coke (as fast as I can get it until it's all gone) so I switched to Amsoil & was ABSOLUTELY AMAZED with the difference!!! There was almost no clatter at start up, it ran quieter when it was hot and used at least 75% less oil between changes. I don't have any issues with the M1 in the CTS though, so I'm sticking with it for now. I also don't try to race every Cobra I come across with my CTS!!
Now what are these condom thingys ya'll are talkin about??? I live by the tried and true method of "Pull & Pray!" (have I ever mentioned I have a son??)
was using mobile 1 in my bimmer with a bit of an oil burning problem and then switched to royal purple and the oil consumption problem completely went away. there was also a video on youtube someplace showing how RP will actually reverse engine wear
I use M1 and I've made an oil analysis at 12000 km and obviously I could go a lot more and the carputer sayd 34% oil life left. So next test will be at 15 000 km ( 9300 miles). I remember that at 9300 miles the DIC showed around 16-17% left so I'll see how everything's holding on. Ghettomike, I think it is accurate but to make sure, you could do some oil analysis(30$ per test) 'cause there's no 2 same engines (metal wears etc).
i usually do an oil change every 3-5000 miles no matter what. i dont usually trust the computer to tell me how long i have before i need to change the oil.
RP around here is about $7 a quart which to me is more then worth it as i have seen amazing differences with it over Mobile 1 and other oils. (engine runs quieter, slightly better gas mileage, highly reduced oil cinsumption, and its suposed to be more resistant to thermal breakdown and along with reverse engine wear)
i usually do my oil changes at 5000km..unsure of miles... but i lost track this time because i bought the car at 113700 and i got the oil changed at my mechanic because the dp torques was destroyed.. i dont remember the km on the car when i brought it in but the sticker they put on the car says 117000 when its due at..which is totally wrong.. i think i changed it at 115000 or 116000km...im now at almost 120,000..i wanta do it at 120 even so i know every time i hit an extra 5000km its due..easier to keep track of...im usually really good at keeping on the oil changes..
also... for winter storage... do i drain all the fluids?
i want to put in better dif fluid... what type should i use? RP makes it (i think they call it redline..?maybe thats a diff company) i just dont know the GO type/weight or is there something better to use? i dont mind spending an extra $20 on the diff cuz its not like it gets changed all that often anyway and ide rather keep it in good shape.
You people (if the shoe fits wear it) go out and spend tens of thousands of dollars for a vehicle or vehicles and then nickel and dime on the oil and filters. Pick the oil you like best (any brand) no matter what the cost and stick with it. It's the cheapest maintenance you can do to your vehicle to make it last.
