Help with Suspension/alignment issues

[CateraSport2000]

After chewing through another set of tires after 28,000 miles, I just put another new set of tires on my 2000 Cat sport. I have horrible inner tire wear and despite having my front control arms replaced a couple years ago along with driver's side tie rods and rear driver's side tie rods, I'm still having the problem.

For a while now I've had to cock my steering wheel slightly to the left to drive as it tends to pull to the right. Now that the new tires are on and an "alignment" was done by my local firestone, I really have to turn the wheel to the left to keep going straight... the alignment is worse than ever despite the fact that it measures up as true on their sophisticated machine. I brought it back and they rotated the tires and said something about them being directional tires. That didn't change anything and I'm sure there is something wrong with my suspension but can't figure out what it is. Last time I was at the dealer they made a comment that there was some "play" in the rack and pinion.

Anyone have any similar experiences??? Any advice? Thanks in advance.. I just want to drive in a straight line and enjoy my new tires before they are worn down to steel belts again

[Catera V]

Your dealer is very poor. The Catera does not have rack and pinion steering, it has recirculating ball (conventional gear). Inner wear and quick wear would indiacate a toe problem or to much negative camber. The rear subframe could be shifted causing the car to dogtrack and lead. Measure your wheelbase left and right side to see if they are the same within a 1/4 inch. If they are get another alignment make sure it is a shop that can do a 4 wheel alignment. Have the camber set 1/2 degree more positive on the left front to correct a right lead. Make sure your tire pressures are set correctly before doing anything.--good luck

[Marks DTM Calib]

Camber is the most common cause, unless toe is very bad (which in reality is then changing the cmaber!) it wont actualy cause tyre wear (check out here for info www.wheelsinmotion.co.uk).

We now set our front camber to 1deg and 20sec negative, this gives the best grip and wear it would appear.....and you want either side pretty close to this i.e. little difference between the two!

This can be done reasonably basicaly with a spirit level and a flat surface if your good at maths.

Do also ensure that the wishbone bushes are in good nick!

[CateraSport2000]

Thank you for the advice! I didn't think this car had rack and pinion steering. I think they had a newbie doing the "free 27 point inspection." I am going to try to get it re-aligned, this time by a dealership.

Jeff

[Marks DTM Calib]

Interestingly, if there is a little play in the steering box then it is easy to tweek out with some very small adjustment of the end float adjustment bolt/nut assembly on top of the box....reality is that if this was the problem you would get wandering and not pulling as it doesn't affect the toe figures...

Here we look for oufits which will do a full geometry setup i.e. front and rear camber, toe, caster KPI etc....the wheels in motion site gives details on what to ask for....

[whereditgo]

Marks DTM Calib, guess what, I'm back...

While do the work to the oil cooler and thermostat, I removed the drivers side front tire on my dad's Catera. Wouldn't you know the inside was worn down almost to the belts. Didn't want to do anything to it until we knew the leak was fixed.

I have read some treads on alignment issues, and have come to three possible solutions, all require an understanding of what the alignment specs should be.

Option 1: Bring the car to a dealer who understands the finicky CAT, and have to bring it in for regular check-ups. $$$

Option 2: Bring the car to a Firestone Dealer and purchase there Premium Alignment (Lifetime) service. This would require some education of the technician, or if lucky find one that knows the Cat. $$

Option 3: Do it myself as you suggest. I am very good at math, but would like a bit more detail on the steps involved. $

Looking for you input ?

Is this link correct, as I could not find the info on the web site:

http://www.wheelsinmotion.co.uk/

Thanks

[CateraSport2000]

I took my car to the dealer and they determined that I had a frozen strut on the right side that wouldn't move and thus the car couldn't be aligned. So, there's a new strut on order and they will align it once that is installed. They said I could use a tie rod and left side strut as well but it wasn't as urgent. I think I may sell the car instead!

Jeff

[Marks DTM Calib]

My mistake, missed a dash out:

http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/

The method that I use for basic camber setting involves the use of a flat piece of road/driveway and a modified spirit level.

In the spirit level is two drilled and tapped holes which have two long(ish) bolts inserted with a locking nut also, the holes are spaced so that the heads of the bolts rest on wheel rim.

You can then set the bolt lengths by winding them into the threads (and locking them in place with the nuts) so that when the spirit level is vertical any object placed on the heads of the nuts will be a set angle relative to the vertical....

In this case the object we are using is the wheel rim.

Considering the target camber setting is 1deg and 20sec (i.e. 1.33333deg) and using a bit of trig (Tan) you can work out thedifferent required between thetwo bolt lengths and adjust the boltss.

Now with the car on a flat surface (at least left to right) you can jack the car up remove the road wheel, slacken the the hub to strutt joint bolts, refit the wheel and set a basic camber setting (by pushing/pulling the top of the wheel) using the spirit level with the bolts resting on the wheel rim, given that your bolts are correctly set, a vertical reading is the correct camber.

Remove the wheel again and nip the bolts back up, refit wheel and roll the car backwards 6 feet and then forwards again and re-check with your spirt level...

Repeat until accurate and torque the bolts up fully.

Now do the other side.

What you should find is that the top bolt on the level will stick out about 7-10mm more than the bottom one (differs with wheel rim diameter).

Given what you are doing it should be fine to only fit three wheel bolts whilst doing the adjustments.

You might find thatchecking the camber with the fabricated gauge and moving the strutt with the wheel off and then simply clamping it again works best for you.....its down to personal preferrence...

[Marks DTM Calib]

Originally Posted by CateraSport2000

I took my car to the dealer and they determined that I had a frozen strut on the right side that wouldn't move and thus the car couldn't be aligned. So, there's a new strut on order and they will align it once that is installed. They said I could use a tie rod and left side strut as well but it wasn't as urgent. I think I may sell the car instead!

Jeff

You NEVER replace strutts/dampers as single items....only as pairs....