oil cooler change NOW!!!!!!!!

[contourbs]

yeah you need to drain the radiator and refill it with water because the radiator is now filled with oil and everytime i do a oil cooler the radiator needs replacing also because it cracks on the upper hose plastic side

[caterashaker]

Hey tmkktm, did you change your oil cooler yet? If so, was it difficult and how long did it take you?

[Marks DTM Calib]

On an Omega, its takes me 3 hours.....interestingly, we see these fail quite rarely, maybe you guys use a different antifreeze/coolant change schedule to us (it must be changed every 2 years for a 0:50 antifreeze mix or the cooler can corrode).

The actual part was updated in design in appox 1995 to a stainless steel one, it would then appear to have been changed again to a heavier pattern item in approx 1998.

As for design....note, these power plants are assembled in the UK (Liverpool - Ellsmere Port) but, not designed there, the design is german and the failure is a design fault!

I seem to think we have a maintenance guide for this (plus many oterh useful bits) on our Vaux Omega site at

www.omegaowners.com

[contourbs]

what do these coolers cost over there?

[tmkktm]

Ok, I took it apart- contourbs was right- it took me just about 2-3 hours to get to it, but mostly because I didn't have the right sockets- I needed a 24 and a 30, which I had to buy, otherwise it would've been faster. I will post some pictures- the thing looks nasty!!! Strange thing was though, when I drained the water from the radiator, it didn't have any oil in it- up to the thermostat, no oil in water; after cooler- everything messy. So I think the radiator would be fine, the thermostat probably could be changed(although not sure how to take it out!!!- took the 2 bolts out and pulled, but nothing!). The HCV seems fine, because the water leak I was talking about was from a different hose, the one that goes to the top of the intake and splits- I'll show that in the pictures as well. So I think that hose was messed up because of the oil, instead of it messing up the plastic upper part on the radiator, which contourbs mentioned, which is actually better. Current problems:-)-1st don't know which would be the best way to clean the system and what should I use to clean it and 2nd I so wish the damn part was cheaper- so don't want to spend $200 even $150 bucks on it- for m... sake a transmission costs $200- so expensive for a tiny radiator!!! I'll post the pictures once I donwload them.

[contourbs]

just put water in the car and drain it every gas fill up

[Marks DTM Calib]

If you catch it early then the rad will be fine.

One method we use for flushing the mayo from the coolant system is to run the car for 20 or so miles with a cup full of water soluable de-greaser in it.

Then flush through with water well a few times and all shoudl be good.

As an additional pointer, dont bend the oil pipes that feed the cooler, it makes the re-fit pretty tough, its much easier to remove the oil filter/housing and using a 19mm crows foot spanner, remove the pipes from the block. If you do bend the pipes it can result in oil leaks from the block end because moving and flexing these joints loosens them plus they are a swine to re-fit.

I pay approx £80 inc tax (about $150 which includes the 17.5% Tax) for the cooler which includes a new plate, 2 bolts and 2 rubber seals plus another £7 ($13) for the grey sealent (works brilliantly on the stat to block joint, much better than the original seal), £4 ($7) for the 4 coolant bridge doughty seals and £2 ($3.5) for the 4 metal oil pipe to cooler washers.

I note somebody asked about stat removal, to do this you need to pull the bridge pipe out before unbolting the stat. This pipe is held be a single torx bolt on the 2-4-6 head near the power steering reservoir. It can be a swine to remove (its actualy easier to use a 10mm open ended spanner, we refer to it as the b-stard bolt!). Then pull the bridge pipe out (wiggle it whilst applying some elverage). Now the stat can be removed, when re-fitting apply some grease to the rubber seals on the end of the bridge pipe to aid re-fitting.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Originally Posted by contourbs

just put water in the car and drain it every gas fill up

Not ideal as you are likely to get 300+miles per tank and the lack of antifreeze means there will be no corrosion inhibitors in the system.

These units need a 50:50 antifreze mix changed idealy every 2 years.....if you do this you will not get oil cooler failure in the first place.

[contourbs]

so how much could i get the oil cooler kit and the 4 rubber coolant bridge washers for

[Marks DTM Calib]

Here is the man to ask.....shows $142 (inc UK tax).

Vaux Parts - Oil Cooler

He can get the washers and sealent to.....

Dont forget that you also need the 4 washers for the oil cooler pipe to oil cooler joints