If you can isolate the resistor, or even just the series combination of the motor and resistor, check using a VOM for continutiy. In the latter case, if either the motor OR resistor is open, you will have no continuity. And, yes, it is possible for the motor to fail while the resistor remains OK. for example, the motor brushes might be gone.
If you feel the above is beyond your skills, and if you do not have a friend with basic electrical know-how, consider taking the car in to an auto electric shop, for diagnosis only. Such a shop should be able to run these simple tests without imposing great expense on you. Ask anyway, in advance, just to be sure.
The thought here is to try to find precisely what's gone awry. If it's not the motor or resistor, and assuming the fuse is good as you say, the problem also could be an open or corroded connection in the wiring leading to those items. You need to circuit trace that particular circuit and try to find the source of your trouble.
A GP mechanic might not have the skill to circuit trace something like this and localize the problem source. Such an individual might opt for "repair by substitution" instead of and/or as an alternative to diagnosis. An auto electric shop, and especially a smaller one or two man outfit, might be willing to take the time actually to localize your problem. This facilitates the rifle shot fix as opposed to the shotgun fix.
Once you know for sure what is wrong, and perhaps even if you do not, consider picking up a motor and/or a resistor from an auto graveyard. That should save you a few bucks.
A good day for OSU Saturday.
Hope you have equivalent success with your troubleshooting!
Good luck.
