Cadillac Catera and Cimarron Forum Discussion, Check Engine light not lighting up in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; I have just read the manual and was surprised to know that during start up, or when i turn the ...
I have just read the manual and was surprised to know that during start up, or when i turn the key to the "on" position, the "Check Engine" light should light up for a while like all the others, but mine doesn't. Does this mean that I will have to bring it to a specialist to check on it or is it something i can check myself? I am thinking that it could just be the bulb or whatever is behind that instrument panel that makes it light up that is the problem. Now, this is scary, because although I am not noticing anything wrong with the car, I am afraid that after I get the light fixed then it will be lighting up on me for the rest of the car's life. So far, I am happy with the way things are turning with the car compared to most owners here that have their "Check Engine" light lighting up like clockwork. Anyway, if there is a fix for this that i can do myself, I would be grateful to whoever it is as usual. Thanks
I went on to remove the instrument cluster assembly and checked the bulbs, and as it turn out, the bulb that is for the "Check Engine" light is busted. I went to replace the bulb, and lo and behold, the "Check Engine" light lit up when the the car is started and never went off again . So, since i am at Autozone, why not have them read the code if there is. And there it is, two codes came out, one is P0411 and the other one is P0160(O2 sensor no 2) and the previous one has something to do with an incorrect flow in the Secondary Air Injection system. The question now is, what should I do? Should I continue using the car with these codes or probably just remove the bulb for the "Check Engine" light so it won't bother me again and just enjoy the ride. I didn't listen to Omermurat and now, I'm faced with the prospect of buying that O2 sensor which is very expensive and the other one which i don't know yet what to do with. But anyway, it's good that I had the light fix, because, who knows, the problem might escalate and create further problems if left unchecked. So, Catera Gurus, show me the path and guide me through this road i'm gonna travel.
Secondary air flow is not that important for your car's health. All it does reducing the emission when the engine is cold, but the same thing can not be said for your O2 sensor problem. The engine continiously adjusts itself by the inputs from those O2 sensors.
For P0411 DTC read the below message that I posted a few days ago.
I had the same problem. The secondary air injection is the system that injects air in to the exhaust manifolds when the engine is cold in order to help burning not burned gas to reduce emissions and warm catalitic converters sooner to get them work faster. It's located in front of the left front wheel in the fender. It's nothing but an air pump like the ones in any vacuum cleaner. You need to make sure that the motor is fine, the switches, check valve etc.
In my case the check valve was bad and it was sending hot exhaust gases to the pump, and the water in the gas got accumulated in the pump and ruined it.
The new pump runs about $250, but same year BMW air pumps are actually the same ones only its electric connector is different. I used an BMW model for $160 and changed the rear cover where the connector located. It fit right in and has been running just fine for 6 months.
But you need to check the pump & check valve to make sure they are alright. If you need it I can send the procedure in pdf format.
For the O2 sensor, I remember reading a message about that. Simply pull the O2 sensors out, clean then by putting them in an injector cleaner solution overnight and you should be fine. Even if it doesn't work, it's worth to try.
Okay, now, where is this O2 sensor located so I can pull that piece of junk and clean it. I'll check that pump you are talking about. By the way, I decided to try and reset the system by disconnecting the cables, and voila, the "Check Engine" light turned off. I turned it on and off for a couple of times to make sure I didn't just busted up another bulb. I even drove it around the block for a few minutes and so far the "Check Engine" light remained off..... for now. I am crossing my fingers and toes on this one. I am hoping it would not come back and just decide to give me a break this time. Thanks Omermurat.
So far, no "Check Engine" light. Drove the car again this evening after about 4 hours. Tomorrow, i'll see again what's the verdict. I'm thinking that it may be residual reads by the car's computer since the bulb was busted for a long time. I am not sure about this, actually, I'm kinda hoping it's gone for now. Anyway, would disconnecting the air pump and the sensors be a solution in case it comes back again? Anyway, this weekend I'll be working on the headlights installing the HID retrofit i bought so i would be checking the pump while doing this since I am guessing it will be exposed well after removing the headlights from it's place. Thanks again Omermurat
By the way, Omer, that O2 sensor in question (number 2 sensor in bank 2), do you know exactly where it is and what to look for to identify the thing? I am thinking of giving it a clean up and it might solve the problem. Thanks.
And one more thing, I have been reading on the pdf file you sent me on how to troubleshoot the secondary air pump and most of the step requires the use of a scan tool. Is there a way to command the components of that secondary air pump to turn on without the use of a scan tool? Or should i buy a scan tool that it may be useful for future use? The pump, I can check if it's running by simply removing the hose and see if air is coming out, but the Air Solenoid valve, to see if there is vacuum, I am not sure how to get it to turn on and off when needed. Since you said you have repaired yours in the past, what did you do to accomplish all this tests? Thanks again pal.
I had siply started from the air pump itself and that was the defective part. I removed the pump's relay and energized it manually to see if it's working and it didn't. As soon as I removed the pump out, I found out that it was full of water with exhaust smell. The pump was beyond repair, but how in the world that water had gotten in there?
Then I checked the check valve. I started the engine and disconnect the hose which comes from the check valve, there should be no exhaust pulses as it is supposed to be stopped by the check valve. But there was alot of gas coming out of it, and this is why I got all this water in the pump itself. I changed both pump and the valve, plroblem solved.
When I go home tonight, I'll post which relay you need to mess with.
OK, the relay I've been talking about is in the rectangular box by the battery. It's called K12 and located closest to the front of the car (position 21).
Just pull that relay out and by using a piece of wire, apply 12v to the connectors. Just touch the briefly with that wire which is connected to the positive side of your battery (one of them is going to energize the pump) if the pump is OK you'll hear it running.
If it doesn't run after trying all connectors, check the check valve by removing the hose with the engine running. If you feel any pulses, I bet you your pump is full of water like mine. In that case you'll need a pump & a check valve. Similar year model BMW 5 series' pumps just fit like original by changing the rear cover only (connector plug is located on the back cover).
It's fine, I have been figuring out as well which relay it is. I checked the manual and I was also guessing its the one you describe. Because in the manual it says that relay is for the Air pump, I just wasn't sure how many air pump the Catera has. Thanks a lot. I didn't have the time to work on it so the delay didn't matter.