97 Catera, leaking coolant

SHOnuff93 · #1 (**permalink**) 02-10-03, 12:22 AM

A friend of mine asked me to check on a coolant leak she was experiencing. The leak appears to be coming from a heater hose behind the intake manifold. What is the easiest way to access these hoses? If i need to remove the intake manifold is there a write-up or diagram i can follow in order to put everything back together correctly? Thanks in advance

Tyler Garlock

HotRodSaint · #2 (**permalink**) 02-10-03, 09:07 PM

You might want to invest in a repair manual. You can find factory manuals on e-bay for 20 bucks or so. The factory manuals are pretty descriptive.

elwesso · #3 (**permalink**) 02-11-03, 05:53 PM

I dont think you would have to take off the manifold. Could you stick some sort of mirror up there so you can see the leak? Then you might be able to dis-assemble some other things to get to it.

SHOnuff93 · #4 (**permalink**) 02-12-03, 12:37 AM

I can see the leak, but cannot access the heater hoses, I don't have acces to a repair manual and need help asap, has anyone done this before, or should i just direct her to the dealership?

BeelzeBob · #5 (**permalink**) 02-18-03, 12:48 PM

I'm afraid it looks like you'll need to take this to the dealer. Unless you've figured it out already.. Apparently, we don't have enough of a Catera member base yet. We're less than two months old..

Sorry!

Sal

pepelepuu · #6 (**permalink**) 11-08-03, 10:59 AM

Im afraid that I have the same or near issue with my 99 Catera with 75,000 miles. It looks like the leak is coming from that heater valve behind the intake. I purchased a new one from the dealer ($77.00 for a piece of plastic) and am trying to reach the darn thing. I cannot get a pair of plyers near the hose clamps to R&R the valve. I guess the intake will have to be moved forward enough to access it. I agree, service manuals would definately help with the matter. Tried to bid on a set on ebay, but there must be a demand for them. I started bidding at $10 and in 2 days jumped to $75 (plus these were used). Oh well. Wish i could be of more help here. Having issues too.

jesterphatt · #7 (**permalink**) 11-17-03, 02:36 PM

This si a common problem... mine was fixed when the did the recall on the water pump drive belt thingy... i had the same problem, took it in for brakes and they said i needed the recall done due to my leakage... not a prob since..

98 black with all the options except rear screen... awesome wheels

sjashbrook · #8 (**permalink**) 02-22-04, 07:50 AM

DO NOT TAKE TO DEALER unless you have money to burn.
I have 98 catera with everyone of the bs problems associated. I can help. the leak is probably due to heater control valve breaking off the bracket mount its connected too....the heater control valve has three stems that branch off and off this is a tee connector hose piece. the tee connector has curely-q like bend to it that if not positioned high enough, will rest of the coolant inlet pipe and might even rest up on the manifold heat sheilds.. either case both of these get hotter that hell, hot enough to melt rubber hoses...............you can get access to the back of the engine where the heater valve and hoses-here's how.
1)take off the cowl and the air grille(where the cabin air fillter goes)
2)remove the windshield wiper motors, control bars, and wipers
3)remove the air resenator, intake plenum, intake manifold, throttle body.
on the throttle body removal, if you simply disconnect the two silve fuel lines feed from the bracket, and throttle body coolant lines, one right side pointing forwards, one left side pointing port side, you'll keep the throttle body connected to the intake manifold and is much easier to put back later.
4) it is easier to go ahead and take the fuel rail/injector tree out, toremove the inj tree-don't be afraid to put some umpffff behind it-cause those guys are inthere tight. plus you can go ahead and get some carb cleaner and cleaner the gunk on the injectors themselves.
5) make sure you mask off the openings exposed, its just safer
6)remove the coolant inlet pipe just to make sure the oring isn't trashed

These are the basis, if you have any questions, the damn service manuals are not very helpful, the same bullshit is on alldata for 25.00 don't waste the money. Ihave manuals for 98 if you need diagrams or get stuck, I'll help get ya out.
the repairs are not rocket science, but more time consuming and lack of information from Cadillac only pisses off the problem. Oh yeah by the way if you have bad valve covers, my mistake cylinder head covers, don't bother getting the damn things from dealer at 58.00 per side and 1.75 per oring(16 total) get the gasket maker from autozone, OEM gasket maker about 15.00$ per can, get 2 cans-orings take a bit to make.........same shit gm uses on the transmission casing and the oil pan-upper.

gizmo54 · #9 (**permalink**) 09-26-06, 05:37 PM

I have a 98 Cadillac Catera with the identical problem.
The local GM dealership quoted me an unbelievable $1100.00 Can. to fix the hose. They said that other hoses and gaskets have to be replaced.
What a rip-off.
I could sure use a copy of the manual.
Sincerely,
gizmo54

R-Caddy · #10 (**permalink**) 09-27-06, 03:38 PM

my head gaskets seem to be blown... can ave thw owrk done for bout $700 including parts. Last year had the heater control valve replaced. Before that it was the water pump...

zealious · #11 (**permalink**) 09-27-06, 04:42 PM

it cost me $2.49 to fix this problem. its not hard to get to the HCV. u just got to take off windshield wiper and windshield guards. then there is only one intake manifold hose thats in the way (midle) move that. what i did was, yank the HCV up (moderate force, stretching the hoses) then i pried a screw driver between the bottom of the unit, intake and piece of sheet metal near the window to hold the unit in place. then remove the 3 hoses and control hose on top. (make note of which hose hooked up where) then i bought a 1/2" inlet 5" long aluminum extension pipe from ace hard ware for 2.49. Hooked it up to the hose that comes from the coolant resivor and the hose that went to the top inlet (driver side) witht the pipe. then i stuck a wine cork in the 3rd hose.

flushed radiator.
worked like a charm.

zealious · #12 (**permalink**) 09-27-06, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sjashbrook

Oh yeah by the way if you have bad valve covers, my mistake cylinder head covers, don't bother getting the damn things from dealer at 58.00 per side and 1.75 per oring(16 total) get the gasket maker from autozone, OEM gasket maker about 15.00$ per can, get 2 cans-orings take a bit to make.........same shit gm uses on the transmission casing and the oil pan-upper.

hey brook I noticed a good amount of oil in my spark plugs. guessing its vlave gaskets. any chance i can get some diagrams and what not from u to do the job my self?

FM-IN-MI · #13 (**permalink**) 10-27-06, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zealious

it cost me $2.49 to fix this problem. its not hard to get to the HCV. u just got to take off windshield wiper and windshield guards. then there is only one intake manifold hose thats in the way (midle) move that. what i did was, yank the HCV up (moderate force, stretching the hoses) then i pried a screw driver between the bottom of the unit, intake and piece of sheet metal near the window to hold the unit in place. then remove the 3 hoses and control hose on top. (make note of which hose hooked up where) then i bought a 1/2" inlet 5" long aluminum extension pipe from ace hard ware for 2.49. Hooked it up to the hose that comes from the coolant resivor and the hose that went to the top inlet (driver side) witht the pipe. then i stuck a wine cork in the 3rd hose.

flushed radiator.
worked like a charm.

So does this force water to constantly flow through the heater core inside the car? My son has to frequently disconnect the vacuum line each morning to get heat inside. We have tried to take apart the dash to see where this vacuum line comes from, as we believe whatever is controlling it is malfunctioning (not releasing vacuum) and want to fix it.

If indeed your modification allows hot water to always circulate through the heater core, doesn't the interior get hot in the summer? I would think you would have to run the AC a lot more to compensate...

Lastly, did you really use a wine cork to plug up the port???

Thanks for the reply.

Frank in Michigan

K1ng · #14 (**permalink**) 05-28-07, 01:03 PM

Would it be ok to use something like this?

http://www.prestone.com/products/coo...Treatments.php

carate · #15 (**permalink**) 05-30-07, 12:58 PM

Do it as Zealious says by removing the wipers and cover panel below the wipers. you can drag the HCV up far enough to get to the fittings. If however its not the HCV, it could be the throttle body heater hose - I've just had mine go at the back of the engine - (it goes into the water crossover unit). To get at the clip for this I did have to remove the air plenum and the fuel injector/ intake manifold. A 3 1/2 foot length of 5/16 fuel pipe solved this rather than spend a fortune on a GM replacement.
I do have a 1997 manual, but it would take me ages to scan it in. I may try and find a professional "friend" who could do it. If you are in the GTA area and want to borrow, e-mail me at loopingform@yahoo.com