Cadillac Catera and Cimarron Forum Discussion, 2001 Catera Myriad of Issues in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; CPS was replaced yesterday morning, have started car ~10 times, no issues. I think this one is resolved.
I don't ...
CPS was replaced yesterday morning, have started car ~10 times, no issues. I think this one is resolved.
I don't usually drive my car at 3pm because I'm usually at work, but I did this time. While setting in a drive-thru I noticed the Oil Pressure light come on and the needle in the red. I turned the car off immediately and restarted, oil pressure stayed above the red, barely. RPM directly effects the oil pressure and seems to be related to heat also. At 8am it usually stays around 70 (psi?) and as the car warms up the pressure begins to fluctuate with RPM. When I say fluctuate I mean it'll fluctuate from maybe 20 to 70 depending on how much gas I'm giving it. I scheduled an oil change (as I've never changed the oil since I've owned it). If this doesn't fix the problem I'll be going to a thicker oil in the summer time.
On the way home from work the infamous Flashing-S reappeared for the first time in 3 weeks. I called the dealer back and he's looking at it Tuesday.
P1700 I have a 2001 cadillac catera and I purchased a brand new tcm and installed it. It changed nothing for me. Still have the same code showing up P1700 + one other P0705. What could be my problem. Ive posted my own links but no one ever seems to input on it. Help!
We own a 2001 Catera Sport and have been experiencing the exact same issues as you.... Intermittently not starting for no reason... Wait a while - 2o minutes or so, then it starts (replacing the battery cabling system seems to have fixed this - although it has happened once since then). Oil Pressure light - but there is not a real problem - mechanic thinks it is a faulty sensor... Heat definitely seems to be a factor. We also have shifting issues - like while driving, it goes into neutral by itself, and now brake lights coming on and staying on even when car is off. All the lights on the shifting panel are on no matter which gear you shift to. We have been suspecting electrical for a long time, but the cost to troubleshoot the entire electrical system - expensive and exhausting...
Other smaller issues: Right front door lock only works manually. Coolant sensor light stays on whether or not full or empty.
Definitely going to pay attention to this forum! Thank you all for being here....
Just a thought on your transmission problems. I know that the transmission control is super sensitive to the battery voltage in the car. When I had a failing alternator, my transmission started to act up. Replaced alternator, no trans problems for about 5 years. A failing battery or bad battery cable may also account for it. What voltage is your voltage gauge showing? I like to see at least 13.5 volts.
Our starting problems improved dramatically when we replaced the battery cable, which was visibly worn where it connects to the post.
Hey Folks: I'll bet someone out there has had this feeling when getting something done on your car.
My usual garage recommended the tranny shop I went to, and they repaired the original, even as much as changing the case after telling me if it was damaged it would cost another $750. Sure enough, they called me back and said I needed a new case. And as I've vented about before they did a terrible job. I complained until they finally built another box from scratch with a new converter. When I spoke with the tech after they put in the new unit he wasn't aware that I was REFERRED by a friend of the owner. Here's the kicker. The tech said things would have gone different if he new I was referred by a friend of the owner. The long and short of it is that they put some new parts in my original trans, and hoped I'd go away. Only when they realized they may not get any more referrrals from my garrage did they do THE RIGHT THING. Well, the new trans is operating as smooth as silk. Now I'll go back to my garage and let them know how their referrals are treated by these people. Cheers, Brian
hey folks-- I had a similar situation. my car wouldnt start. I replaced the battery- its charged and good. I get 12+V on the battery, about the same Volts on the starter and on the alternator. I get power to the dashboard and all lights/ power everything... however, when I rocker the key in the ignition, the car will not start - I get no action/sound out of the starter. I also replaced the Maxi 80A fuses, from the battery to that triangle fuse box and that didnt help either.
I cannot figure out what's failing-- could it be the:
Starter Solenoid? (eventhough the starter is getting power/ELE)
Ignition Starter Switch? (failed?)
It was running just fine before - no issues.
Even with a good battery or trickle charging the old battery did not/will not start the car.
Odd, that the last time it failed to start - it seemed like the starter ignition wouldnt start the car when it was being jump-started.
And it wont jump-start either - (Ignition Starter Switch???)
I also rockered the key in the ignition to the on position and the only one that doesnt move is the OIL PSI-- its in the red.
There's oil in the car but no pressure
Question: does the car crank-over and just not start? Similar: I have new battery - power to the dashboard/light etc... using a multimeter I have power to the starter (12V) and power to the alternator... and the car wont even crank. could this also be the CPS related issue?? or perhaps the Ignition Starter Switch ?