Project CATERROR

[Warez]

Originally Posted by Matera97

So, It has to be a Gen II or III block, the only ones for first Gen 350's that I can tell produce anything close to those numbers are the ZQ3 and the L46. Is it the LT1 block?

It's a Gen-1.

The Gen-1 small block Chevy is the engine that invented the aftermarket. Permormance parts are cheap and the choices are endless. Building a 450hp + 383 should not be too difficult nor expensive.

[Warez]

Originally Posted by R-Caddy

My next step is cam and heads. Accessories and stuff like that I am not very worried about at this moment. The transmission choice is 700r4. Headers will be made locally, so is the driveshaft and the axles. I am thinking using GTO differential.

Lingenfelter had a whole bunch of V8-Omega diffs and driveshafts. Unfortunately they sold off their whole inventory of remaining parts a while back. I would suggest emailing them and asking for the contact info of the buyer. I'm sure the buyer would sell you a diff+driveshaft.

The V8-Omega diff is a direct bolt-in. Though the rear sub-frame of the Catera and GTO is similar, our cars use a MUCH superior diff mounting design.

You may save some time and money rather than adapting the GTO diff.

If you can't get a Omega-V8 diff, why don't you adapt a Ford Cobra/Explorer 8.8 diff instead of the GTO diff. They're all aluminum, common, relatively cheap on eBay and have planty of aftermarket parts available. They're also much stronger than the GTO diff.

[AHazzardToAll]

I thought the gto was a direct placement form the holden, same setup at our cats so it would be a direct fit?

[R-Caddy]

Ok. Here's some answers. Yes, it is Gen I block. It was either a used LS1 or a brand spanking new built 383 with more power and cheaper maintenance.
I am aware of the Lingenfelter kit. And right when I wanted to get one- BOOM!- last one sold. Even here on the board.
I was thinking using a late model Mustang Mach 1 rear end (posi traction, 3.4? gears), but changing only the diff is less problematic. I am still not decided. I will need more than the 3.08 gears from V8 Omega to keep the 4000lb pig moving. That also dictated my head choice. The driveshaft is only about $300 to build here locally, so... Transmission, the 700r4 will give it streetability and better gas mileage. 4L60E is electronic, and I'm trying to get away from all that crap. Plus, again, more money for used stock stuff... I will have my transmission available though
Suspension-wise, I have GTO shocks, shock bar, lowering springs. I may have to refresh the shocks and maybe get a set of drag bags. I believe the front to be OK witn new struts, lowering springs, links, ball joints. I also have a strutbar. I may need new stabiliser bar bushings and stuff like that, but that's minor stuff.
Once I get that animal under the hood, imagine the possibilities. Oh, and the guy at the machine shop told me he was able to balance the lightweight rotating assembly for super quick revs and responsiveness
Once again, I will keep everybody updated. Meanwhile, check out some clearance stuff on our favorite site
http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclef...l=en&html=true

[Jea3cd]

Sweet, keep the pics coming as you do it.

You upgrading the brakes also?

[R-Caddy]

I already have GTO 2 piston calipers with Corvette pads by Hawk. They tend to slow the car down pretty well from a 100mph

[Black02SLPSS]

Originally Posted by R-Caddy

Ok. Here's some answers. Yes, it is Gen I block. It was either a used LS1 or a brand spanking new built 383 with more power and cheaper maintenance.
I am aware of the Lingenfelter kit. And right when I wanted to get one- BOOM!- last one sold. Even here on the board.
I was thinking using a late model Mustang Mach 1 rear end (posi traction, 3.4? gears), but changing only the diff is less problematic. I am still not decided. I will need more than the 3.08 gears from V8 Omega to keep the 4000lb pig moving.

On the rear end dilemma, are you wanting to keep your irs or go with a solid axle? Only reason i ask this is because the mach's are solid axles with 3.55 rear end gears. The 03-04 cobras on the other hand had an irs for the rear suspsension and i believe their gears were a 3.55 as well. Although i have no idea how much custom fab work would be required to get either to work. I would assume alot. But if your up for the challenge i applaud you.

[Black02SLPSS]

Originally Posted by R-Caddy

Ok. Here's some answers. Yes, it is Gen I block. It was either a used LS1 or a brand spanking new built 383 with more power and cheaper maintenance.
I am aware of the Lingenfelter kit. And right when I wanted to get one- BOOM!- last one sold. Even here on the board.
I was thinking using a late model Mustang Mach 1 rear end (posi traction, 3.4? gears), but changing only the diff is less problematic. I am still not decided. I will need more than the 3.08 gears from V8 Omega to keep the 4000lb pig moving.

On the rear end dilemma, are you wanting to keep your irs or go with a solid axle? Only reason i ask this is because the mach's are solid axles with 3.55 rear end gears. The 03-04 cobras on the other hand had an irs for the rear suspsension and i believe their gears were a 3.55 as well. Although i have no idea how much custom fab work would be required to get either to work. I would assume alot. But if your up for the challenge i applaud you.

[R-Caddy]

I have talked to some GTO owners and they say that the Mach 1 rear end is a common swap on the GTOs and doesn't require extensive modifications. From what I understand, it is also posi-traction. I still believe that just a diff swap would be easier and it can be upgraded to posi-traction from limited slip later. But... that issue is still rather distant. I am talking to people about it though.
Coming this week:
bottom end being put together and probably ordering cam,lifters, timing set

[The Tony Show]

Badass.

[MyOpel]

Nice!
spend a little extra and get a roller cam, more power and more reliable. the oil these days are not flat tappet friendly. do lots of research on the heads and cam. For 450+hp you'll need at least aluminum fastburn heads or better aftermarket.
th700r4....... get the one with the better oil pump (cant remember but think its 86 and newer) do the standard upgrades, vette servo shift kit... but dont spend too much money. if you drive easy it'll last a long time, if you drive it hard... well i killed 2 in my trans am, a friend of mine went thought about 1 a year in his sleeper 383 vette for a total of 9 (he ran low 12's and basically every weekend)

[R-Caddy]

My block is 1992, so it is a hydraulic roller. That is the way I am going. Heads of choice- AFR I talked to them a few times already. Also talked to Comp and have chosen a cam as well. Manifold and the carb I have a good idea bout. The whole setup is going to be done early 90's style with serpentine belt kit etc...
Anyway, gotta run get some prices and run the cam specs by the mechanic Might snap some bare finished block pics