Cadillac Catera and Cimarron Forum Discussion, 3.2 swap and 0411 code in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; hi everyone -
i have a 2001 catera. recently, the engine blew, and i sourced out a 3.2l for a ...
i have a 2001 catera. recently, the engine blew, and i sourced out a 3.2l for a great price. i had a local mechanic install it.
since then, the 0411 - secondary air injection code has been pulled several times and reset. after some frustration, i dragged the car to a cadillac dealership. they got the pump working, but they explained that the reading was low - air pressure maybe - and while they took their pound of flesh, they weren't keen on delving into the problem past a few hundred in labor.
i know that some people have claimed to pull off this swap. my question is whether this could be related to using the 3.0 computer for the 3.2 engine, or whether there is a common solution to what seems to be a nightmare problem - vacuum hoses, 'check valves' sticking, and an unreliable air pump.
i'd appreciate any help that you all can provide. thanks.
Now this may or may not help you, but I have a Camaro that I just had the same problem with. I thought it was the pump, but it turned out to be one of the check valves. And I was also getting the 0411 code. It was allowing air thru, but only about half as much as it should. The check valves would be the very first thing I would try, as they're usually fairly cheap. Only 10 bucks apiece for my Camaro, so shouldn't be over like 80 for the catera...lol
never did the swap, but this was my problem about a month ago
this is what i found. 90% of the time its the check valve reeds sticking. pull it off, spay carb cleaner though it and see if it pulls the code again. this was the fix to my problem. on the forums somewhere (search for p0411) there's maybe 10 posts about it, but there is a good read on how to check all your parts on the secondary air injection system without having to use a tech 2 tool. could be the pump, there are 2 valves (one plastic and one metal (metal is check valve im talking about)) and there is a control solenoid that tells the plastic valve when to open/close. if all those are fine it would be a vacuum line somewhere.
its just an emissions things, car will run great without it. all it does is remove the emissions from the exhaust until the cat converter is warmed up. at least thats what they told me
its a metal valve right in front of the engine when you look under the hood. some what of a pain to get it off, but it was a hell of a lot cheaper then to go pay for it. here is how i figured out what was wrong, its a long read but definately worth it if you don't have a tech 2 tool