Just to be sure, is there a direction for the m5 bushings to face when you install them? I just got mine and dont want to install them wrong...
The bushing has an arrow. It should point inward, to the seam on the control arm. Remember to tighten the bolts after the car is on the ground.
Please update us with your installation experience and a driving impression. If you are replacing the rear/vertical bushings would you please measure them? Outside diameter, inside diameter, length, everything. I'm looking for an alternative to the GM bushings. Maybe even making my own from McMaster Carr polyurethane stock. Thanks in advance.
I am doing only the fronts now, the new ones look a little bigger than the stock ones, I hope they fit, but it could just be me. I ordered them from the link above, so I have confidence in them. My stock ones are easy to move with a common screw driver and it does the rotor shake thing that is annoying! I cant wait, my front struts are blown out pretty good to so they will be replaced at the same time. should make for a whole new feel!
Rear/Vertical Bushing Project (exploring the possibility of making my own poly-bushings) GM Bushing diameter: 48.5mm (1.9095 inches) Raw Polyurethane for Rear/Vertical Bushing McMaster Carr: 2" OD, 1/2" ID, 6" Length, 60A Durometer, $23.87 Each #87235K572 http://www.mcmaster.com/
What exactly is "stock rubber"? According to McMaster Carr's Durameter, 60A is tire rubber and 70A is heel rubber in terms of hardness. Yes I'd like the bushings to be stiffer than stock but not so hard that it gives a jarring ride. More important is that they resist tearing. A 65A might be better but I haven't found one yet.
My thinking has switched from tube to rod stock because I don't know what the inner diameter will be until I have an OE bushing to measure. I may gut 2 old bushings and drill the poly rods to fit their tubes. Same goes for the outer shell. I'll reuse the GM bushing's shell and have a machine shop turn the polyurethane down to fit. The only spec I found online for the GM bushing is 48.5mm diameter (1.9095 inch). This is what MC has in stock in the sizes I need.
Quote:
8784K942
Amber Polyurethane Rod 2" Diameter, 6" Length, 60A Durometer
In stock at $36.38 Each
8784K943
Amber Polyurethane Rod 2" Diameter, 6" Length, 80A Durometer
In stock at $36.38 Each
This is the OE bushing. It's filled with oil so I imagine it's on the soft side. The 60A might be better than the 80A. After the parts are assembled the excess poly will need additional turning to give it a simple cone shape. That should give it a progressive resistance to flexing. The OE has a concave contour that would be harder to turn. A cone should be a snap.
Any ideas? This project is still in the planning stages. It may be a year before I start spending money on this. Before then I'll be researching plenty. I want this to be as strong and safe as possible before I risk my neck on the road.
LOWER CONTROL ARM REAR/VERTICAL POLY-BUSHING PROJECT
I've revised the hardness to 80A to match the POWERFLEX model.
Quote:
From the POWERFLEX SITE (Re: polyurethane bushings):
They are supplied in a black Shore A, 80 material, which is durable enough for high stresses but does allow the slight deflections and misalignments, which occur during suspension movement.
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8784K943
(Same as 8784K94)
Amber Polyurethane Rod 2" Diameter, 6" Length, 80A Durometer
In stock at $36.38 Each http://www.mcmaster.com/
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My idea is to gut stock GM bushings, salvage the inner and outer tubes, and rebuild them using the urethane rod. First step is burning out the old rubber. Next, drilling a hole in the urethane rod to fit the inner crush tube. The urethane rod has to be a tight fit inside the outer tube. I'm thinking maybe heating the tube to expand it and slip the urethane inside before it shrinks back. That or freeze the urethane. Any ideas? Comments?
Well to give you an update I have installed the bushings as well as new monroe struts. I would not be afraid of these m5 bushings if your thinking its going to be to stiff of a ride. An in my opinion the Monroe struts are not stiff enough but it rides better than before. I still need an alingment but over all a good fix! no more rotor type shake and it feels confident.
I can see how improving the rear's would be needed as now I can feel them react poorly while braking in a turn. Stiffer bushings back there would help also in my opinion. My rear GTO monroe shocks seem fine and no ride difference from the Catera Front's on it now. All in all not a huge difference from blown out fronts just a slightly less bounce than before. Like I said I would recommend KYB or Koni if you want something sporting.
Thanks for the update. Glad it worked for you. How hard was it to remove the old bushings and to press the new ones in? Are the M5 bushings an exact fit? Did you use rubber or polyurethane? I hope you remembered to tighten the bushing bolts after lowering the car to the ground. If not you'll be doing this again soon.
Some Omega owners are saying the E34/M5 bushings are marginally smaller than we need for the Catera. They're saying that the BMW E24/28 bushings are a better match. Bob Chen is the guy who pointed me towards the E43/M5 bushings and has used them in his Omega so I will follow his example until someone proves him wrong. I need to know if the new bushings were easier to install than the old ones were to remove.