2000 Catera Radio Shuts Off

yellowxhoodie · #1 (**permalink**) 10-09-07, 05:12 PM

SO i have a 2000 Cadillac Catera with the Bose factory sound system in it. It seems that if i listen to it with the volume about 3/4 of the way up it just randomly shuts off. I have not been able to pinpoint the reason. It does this when im listening to the radio or a CD. Ive heard that there is some sort of chip in the amp which overheats, and i need to take it off and re apply with some glue stuff.

If anyone has any info or could point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated,

I have also posted this thread in the audio section, but i figured more Catera owners would find it and read it here.

lakesidepark · #2 (**permalink**) 10-09-07, 06:57 PM

search this forum for "multifunction module" and you will find my posts on the subject. It has some hints on how to figure out if this is it, and a quick fix for it if you don't wanna buy a new one.

yellowxhoodie · #3 (**permalink**) 10-09-07, 07:25 PM

i searched for it and got 407 results. can u possibly send me a direct link?

Resilient · #4 (**permalink**) 10-10-07, 05:42 PM

Yellow,
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...ud-volume.html (radio shut down with loud volume)

See the third post... might be worth a shot.

It worked for me

yellowxhoodie · #5 (**permalink**) 10-10-07, 05:51 PM

alright ill give it a try when i get a chance.

thanks

lakesidepark · #6 (**permalink**) 10-11-07, 02:43 PM

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...shuts-off.html (1997 Cadillac Catera Radio shuts off)

Jump out terminals #12 & #14 on the mulitfunction switch module. Search under "2000 catera sport radio problems"

If you don't have any "real" overloads or a low voltage, and don't want to spend $65 to replace it, this will fix it. Worked for me.

clayd61 · #7 (**permalink**) 09-30-08, 04:58 AM

I have had the same problem with the radio. Also, the gas cap door, and the brake lights, fog lights, and sun roof have experienced intermittent failures as well. These problem are often diagnosed as a faulty “multifunction module”. I have no doubt that there are faulty modules…but bear with me a moment.

I have also experienced charging system problems that, based on voltage, indicate a faulty alternator. There are numerous threads on this site that discuss this reoccurring problem as well. Again, I have no doubt that there are faulty alternators…but again, bear with me.

I am going to draw a conclusion here that may not be accurate…but I believe the two problems are related…and if you haven’t experienced both yet…you will.

It appears, based on other threads within this site, that the battery cables on the Catera are less than adequate for the countless current sapping gadgets within the car. This is apparent by the scorching or whitish coloring on the positive (red) cable near the battery…and the crumbling sound the cable makes when you bend it back and forth (indicating overheating). These under designed battery cables heat up over time. Corrosion and wire fatigue create greater resistance than the electrical system can accommodate.

My conclusion is the radio, gas cap door, break light, alternator, and perhaps a myriad of other electrical components, experience intermittent failure when the famed "multifunction module" is exposed to less than 12 volts. The lack of adequate voltage is due to poorly designed, and continuously degrading, battery cables and charging cables.

So, I have applied a solution. And regardless of my conclusion, my solution has worked. So far, it has fixed all of the anomalous power failures and my charging system is working perfectly.

In short, I bypassed the main battery cables from the battery to the starter as well as the charging cable from the starter to the a alternator. Here is how I did it…

The two factory cables (actually one) “Y” at the starter. There is a long length from the battery to the starter, and a shorter length from the starter to the alternator. They are crimped together into one “Y” connection at the starter. To bypass these two cables, I disconnected…wait, before you do any of this…remove any rings, watched, or other metal objects. We don’t want you welding your fingers together. Now, to bypass these two cables, I disconnected the positive (red) terminal from the battery and taped it well with electrical tape. Next, I did the same thing to the connections at the starter and the alternator…taping each end thoroughly and securing them to safe locations with tie straps. Next, I went to my local auto parts house and had them make me two cables. I used black cable instead of red in order to better disguise the cables. The first was 7 feet (six will do) of 1 gauge multi-strand cable. On one end, I added a positive battery terminal, and on the other an eyelet for connecting to the starter. The second cable was 1.5 feet (10 inched will do) of 4 gauge multi-strand cable with an eyelet on each end for connecting from the starter to the alternator.

I connected all three points, making sure that I routed the new cables away from heat or sharp edges. I routed the long cable up and over the engine…keeping it close to the firewall and exiting plumbing. I used black tie straps to secure the cable to safe locations. I connected the auxiliary wires to the positive battery terminal. Once I had the cables…this took less than an hour to connect…and cost around $50.

So far, the charging system and all of the electrical components are working great…and I can turn my radio up as loud as I want to.

Good luck!

lakesidepark · #8 (**permalink**) 09-30-08, 01:08 PM

Your conclusion is valid. That multifunction module can fail on its own (mine had poor cold-solder joints); but it can also do what it is supposed to do and cause problems (i.e. it actually IS dropping components due to low voltage). Always good to figure out which is which.

I like your idea as it removes the hi-current path (for the starter) out of the circuit for the remainder of the components. More likely a corroded cable will not cause multiple failures.

icanresqu2 · #9 (**permalink**) 10-04-08, 08:41 PM

I also have a 2000 catera. I have noticed when the radio quits, the trunk wont release and the gas door will not release. I used an alldata schematic and found out there is a multifunction relay K134 located in the left kickpanel. My only problem is locating one. It goes off and on at its convience. The next time the radio goes off, check and see if the trunk and gas door will release. All three of these run through this K134 relay. Hope this helps. Bill

catera4me · #10 (**permalink**) 10-06-08, 10:00 PM

I was going to start a new thread but couldn't figure out how to. I have a 97 Catera with the Bose Stero and am having some issue with it. I had the car in the garage for repairs and when I went to pick it up I had to jump start it to get it going, and ever since than my radio has not been working. It turns on, pulls in a signal, keep tracks of the time, but I get no sound. So my question is, is there a hidden fuse I do not about for the speakers, and is there a seperate amp for the speakers that could make the sound a no go??

Any help would be greatly appreciate. Its an awesome sound listening to the engine, but.......