Cadillac BLS Forum (Europe / South Africa) Discussion, Cadillac BLS aftermarket head unit in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; Hello,
i am new to this forum and went to post here because of a nice user in the saab ...
i am new to this forum and went to post here because of a nice user in the saab central forums which pointed me here. I own a Cadillac BLS year 2006 2.0T.
Now my thing is: i want to change my stock head unit radio with an aftermarket dvd/nav unit. I have on my car the BOSE 9 speaker system with the amplifier in the trunk. I have purchased the kenwood dnx 5220 and i want to get it in my car. The problem is that i dont know which harness wire i should buy because as i noticed a simple ISO harness wont work since i have the bose system and i also want to keep my steering wheels controls(is a must).
So if you done something similar let me know, i am very interested
I keep seeing a lot of people asking the same question on many Cadillac related forums... So I thought I'd post the parts I used, their models numbers
and a quick mini how-to guide to getting things fixed in. Be sure to give yourself at least 2 hours to do this properly if it's your first time.
My car is a BLS 2006 model (with amplifier), to which I fitted a Pioneer AVIC F910BT headunit and kept the use of my Steering Wheel controls.
Quick point worth noting; if you do not get you current headunit "divorced" from the car; don't worry too much... Yes you will lose some of SID's functions
however, I have found these to be realated mainly to things such as the Service Interval Counter (you will not be able to reset this counter either!). As always it is good practice to get things done correctly, so if you do have the chance; get down to your local dealer and get them to do the required computer jiggery.
Ok, to get started - pick yourself a decent stereo (keep to the big names such as Pioneer, Sony, Kenwood, etc.) that has ISO connectors (you can even have units with seperate RCA outputs if you wish). It's worth mentioning that a Double DIN unit would be perfect. There are adaptor fascias that allow you to fit Single DIN units, but to make up the extra space you end up with a small shelf/storage area - looks somewhat odd on that nicely styled dash!
Secondly, find yourself the required parts listed below. The format of the list is: Descrtiption - Part Number - Manufacturer - Points worth mentioning.
* Double DIN Fascia Adaptor - CT23CA01A - Connects2 - Use this over the AudioLeads model if only installing a Double DIN unit.
* Single or Double DIN Fascia Adaptor - FP-37-01 - AudioLeads
* Ariel DIN Adaptor - CT27AA44 -Connects2
* CANBUS Steering Wheel Stalk Adaptor Unit wth ISO converter- CTSSA001 Connects2 - Remember to pick your head unit adaptor lead from the list below!
* Steering Wheel Adaptor lead for Apline head units - CTALPINELEAD - Connects2
* Steering Wheel Adaptor lead for Blaupunkt head units - CTBLAUPUNKTLEAD - Connects2
* Steering Wheel Adaptor lead for Clarion head units - CTCLARIONLEAD - Connects2
* Steering Wheel Adaptor lead for JVC head units - CTJVCLEAD - Connects2
* Steering Wheel Adaptor lead for Kenwood head units - CTKENWOODLEAD - Connects2
* Steering Wheel Adaptor lead for Panasonic head units - CTPANASONICLEAD - Connects2
* Steering Wheel Adaptor lead for Pioneer head units - CTPIONEERLEAD - Connects2
* Steering Wheel Adaptor lead for Sony head units - CTSONYLEAD - Connects2
* Saab 9-3/Cadillac BLS connectors to ISO converter - PC9-415 - Nexxia - Only use this if you you are not using the Stalk Adaptor! You will not need the RCA adaptor below if you use this as this harness also has RCA inputs!
* RCA to ISO Adaptor - PC2-36-AMP - Nexxia - Only use if you have an amplified system, or you need the RCA to ISO adaptor.
* Blade Connectors - 131052-0 - Halfords
* Bullet Connectors - 131037-0 - Halfords
* Number Plate Tape - 702613-0 - Halfords - Much better grip than your usual double sided sticky tape!
Thirdly, follow the steps below.
Ok, so now you've got your new head unit and various fixing parts; you're ready for a spot of surgery on your beloved BLS. Before you do any work, it's worth pointing out that removing the positive terminal from your battery may be a good idea - you don't really need to do this, but it's much safer if you do.
Step 1... Removing the required interior plastics and trim.
Put your car into second gear (you'll find it easier to work!), then gripping the front of the plastic trim that surrounds the gear stick pull upwards. The trim
should pop out of place revealing the internals below. You should now be able to remove the rubber tray from the small shelf/compartment directly infront of the gear stick.
You'll now be ready to start removing the main plastics of your dashboard. The small shelf/compartment that sits directly infrnt of the gear stick should have a reasonable sized hole in it. Place as many fingers as you can into this hole and gripping the plastic pull directly forwards - try keeping this as level as you can when you do... You should see that the compartment pulls alway along with the cigarette socket (if fitted) and traction control/instrumentation light control switches.
*** BE CAREFUL *** Those switches are connected to a short wiring loom, if you use too much force you may damage the wiring of your car.
You should now be ready to remove the climate Control panel (or manual Air Conditioning panel if thats what you have fitted). This again pops out, and can be done by gripping the bottom of the panel firmly and pulling forwards - again at a reasonable lebel angle.
*** BE CAREFUL *** Again you have a panel with a short wiring loom attached. Too much force and you may damage the wiring of your car.
Infront of you, you should now start to see the inner workings of the main centre console. You will see a small metal support bar that runs the full width of the console with two small screws either side. Just above these screws are another set - these need to be removed as they hold the entire centre dashboard plastic panel in place!
*** BE CAREFUL *** Use yourself a driver with a magnectic head, retrieving one of these screws from the innards of your cars gear lever is a pain!
With the screws out, you are now able to remove the main dashboard plastic panel... This is delicate and I cannot stress how little force you need to do this!
Starting from the right hand side, gently pull the planel from the bottom towards you just enough so you can slide two fingers behind the plastic itself. Then slowly start to move your fingers around the edge of the plastic, pulling slightly whenever you feel anything holding the plastic in place. Once you are near the air vents at the top of this plastic, repeat this on the left hand side. Experience has tought me that you may need to do both sides at the same time, if you do again be careful.
*** BE CAREFUL *** Please do not use too much force on the centre dashboard plastic! If you are uncomfortable doing this, stop!
Now you have the sides of the centre dashboard plastic released, you need to concentrate on the main area by the air vents. This is heavily clipped in place and unfortunately does require a medium ammount of force to remove it. Grabbing both side of the plastic as close to the vents as possible; pull forwards whilst tilting the bottom of the plastic at an angle. This should be enough to release the clips at the top of the plastic.
*** BE CAREFUL *** There are a few small wiring connections for the passenger seatbelt warning light and analogue clock. Too much force and you may damage the wiring of your car.
Disconnect the connectors for the Passenger Seatbet warning light and analogue clock; the main plastics and trim should now be completely free! Put them in a safe place for now.
Step 2... Removing your existing head unit.
So, now you should have a pretty empty looking centre dashboard with just the stock head unit in place.
Surrounding the plastic cage of the stock head unit, you will find 4 screws. Remove them taking care as to hold the head unit on the last screw. If you don't it may drop! Remove the head unit and you should see 3 connections on the back... One Ariel, One Audio Block and One Power Block. All have simple clip connectors, so simply holding down on the clip and pulling away from the unit should free them. Be care not to hold the entire connector as you so this; you'll end up ripping the connector and the socket off the head unit!
*** BE CAREFUL *** The head unit is obviously connected to a short wiring loom, if you use too much force you may damage the wiring of your car.
Time to congratulate yourself, you've just got past the tricky part! If you're like me, it's now time to grab a quick 5 minute break and a cuppa! If not, then on to the next bit.
Step 3... Installing the Single or Double DIN Fascia adaptors, Steering Wheel Stalk adaptor and associated harness adaptor.
Ok, let's concentrate on the wiring first whilst there's nothing in the centre console area of your dashboard. Firstly, if you're going to be keeping the use of your Steering Wheel audio controls then, open up the Connects2 CANBUS adaptor box take out the wiring loom and connect it to the Audio and Power Blocks (Power Block can be spotted by the RED, BLACK and YELLOW cables!) of your car. If you're not going to be using this, simply connect the SAAB/Cadillac to ISO converter looom to the same connectors.
If you are using the Steering Wheel audio controls, please take the Connects2 CANBUS adaptor and connect it to the wiring loom (you will see this has a very specific connection block, so you can't miswire anything!). you should also take the adaptor lead for your head unit and connect it to the other side of the Connects2 CANBUS adaptor (again very specific connection so you can't miswire!). At this point I'd recommend finding a suitable place to use that Number Plate Tape on and stick the entire CANBUS adaptor out of the way. I found that the far left hand side near the glovebox is best (be careful not to stick it to the airback assembly!!).
If you have an amplified system and you're using the Steering Wheel Control adaptor, now is the time when you would connect the ISO to RCA adaptor to the Audio block on the Connects2 CANBUS ISO adaptor. You can spot this as it's the one without the RED, BLACK and YELLOW cables.
You should now have 2 ISO connectors, 2 RCA adaptors and a connection for the remote control of your head unit (only if using the Steering Wheel Control adaptor!).
Grab the wiring loom for your new head unit and connect it up to the ISO connectors (and RCA adaptors if required!).
Grab the Ariel DIN Adaptor and connect it to the Ariel connector.
If you're using your Steering Wheel Audio Controls now is the time to connect the Remote Start wire - this is the wire that will wake up your amp or other required devices! You will find this on the Blue/White wire that has a female bullet connector on it, that is protruding from the Connects2 CANBUS adaptor. Simply clip this to the Remote Start wire of your new head unit's wiring loom (this is where the blade connectors may come in handy). For those with a Pioneer system with RCA outputs
on a seperate loom, this is also a blue/white wire. Other head units will vary so please consult your head unit manual.
Now for the Double or Single DIN adaptor fascia. Normally you will find these come in a flat pack style box. Typically the cage will clip onto the plastic frame work, with 2 sets of copper side plates that connect to your head unit. Please follow the instructions for your adaptor fascia carefully.
Insert the Double or Single DIN adaptor fascia into your empty looking centre dashboard locating the 4 holes from which you removed the screws supporting the original head unit. Whilst you do this, it's probably a good idea to feed the wiring looms through the back of the cage first as when it's in place things can get a little tight.
Replace the screws, do not over tighten. Just make sure they're reasonably tight (enough to support your head unit during normal day to day use!).
Grab your new head unit, connect the wiring loom and Ariel connectors to the back - if you're using the steering wheel audio control adaptor, don't forget to plug it in! Push it into the newly installed Single or Double DIN adaptor, remebering to use your other hand to gently pull any excess cable below under neath the cage - I find that you can safely store quite a bit of cable behind the Climate Control Panel!
Obviously if you're a daredevil and haven't removed the battery terminal as recommended, just before doing this would be a great opportunity test out your new sound system!
Once you hear your head unit click into place, fit the remaining outer bevel plastic to your Doubel or Single DIN fascia adaptor.
You're done! If you removed the battery terminal as recommended, go reconnect it and test out your new sound system!
Step 4... Replacing interior plastics and trim.
Please follow the instructions in Step 1 backwards! By now you should have a pretty good idea how things are fitted together. Simply push everything back where it used to sit taking care as to no break any clips in the process.
If I've missed anything, please post the missing bits below. Also should anyone have any questions, again please post them below and I'll do my best to answer them ASAP.
Have fun, take care and happy modding!
PS' As always with forums posts, I take no responsibility if you damage your BLS or anything else you may have used whilst following my advice. That is what this post is, advice, and therefore should always be taken with a spot of caution and a lot of common sense.