Cadillac Audio, Video and Security Systems Discussion, 2002 DeVille Base Stereo Sounds Pretty Good - Why Change? in Item Specific Cadillac Discussion; Hi Guys, Thanks for reading this post and sharing your opinions and experience. My 2002 Deville right door speaker is ...
- 11-26-13 12:52 AM #1Cadillac Owners Member
- Automobile(s): 2002 Deville
- Join Date
- Nov 2013
2002 DeVille Base Stereo Sounds Pretty Good - Why Change?
Thanks for reading this post and sharing your opinions and experience. My 2002 Deville right door speaker is "blapping", I'm sure it's probably busted. I thought it might be a good time to upgrade both front door speakers with some new 3-way's, but an Alpine manual said that I need to disconnect the OEM tweeters because it will harm the Alpine tweeter running them parallel in the circuit. I'm starting to think that I might just replace the OEM speaker with a new one and not monkey around with the base system. Would getting some new 3-ways and disconnecting the front tweeters be the better way to go? And are there any other pitfalls, like installation headaches, weird wiring harnesses or ???? Thanks for relating your experiences, it is much appreciated!
Jim in Virginia
- 11-26-13 01:02 AM #2
The stock tweeters are just where they should be for a proper soundstage. 2/3 way speakers (multiple drivers in one assembly) are better than single cone speakers, but not as good as component speakers (multiple separate drivers that are mounted separately - your stock setup).
I would suggest just replacing it with a stock speaker.
- 11-26-13 09:34 PM #3
Re: 2002 DeVille Base Stereo Sounds Pretty Good - Why Change?
That's definitely the way I'm leaning. Thanks for the advice and that's a sweet STS!
- 06-20-14 09:57 AM #4
Re: 2002 DeVille Base Stereo Sounds Pretty Good - Why Change?
I wanted to share my recent experience with replacing the blown sub on my 2002 DeVille. Please keep in mind that I like classic to modern rock mostly, so this solution might not be enough bottom for some, although it's definitely a step-up from the OEM sub. I used a Kicker 40CWD102 10" Dual Voice coil 2 ohm free air sub and I did not put in another amp, just wired it into the existing radio. All these stories I have read about the trials of upgrading the sound system are way beyond anything I want to get involved in. There are a lot of speakers being touted as replacements when you Google for it, but it has to be a dual 2-ohm voice coil free air sub to be the same as the original speaker.
First, I went into the trunk and stared up at the roughly 8"" hole in the trunk back liner, easily observing the sub and its wiring. I had gone on Crutchfield and gotten a complete wiring diagram for the 2002 Non- Bose radio wiring harness, and was ready with a listing of some elaborate colorcoding for the wiring, but it was just two pairs of black and black-red. The assumption would be black = negative and black-red = positive, which was correct. I took a razor knife and enlarged the hole several inches all 'round for easier access; that went cleanly and cannot be seen looking into the trunk from the back bumper. Be sure you're using a fairly new blade, but it was easy, nothing to it. I disconnected and stripped the wires and connected Fastons, which came with the new sub. Then, I drilled out the four plastic retaining pins holding the GM sub in place from the bottom. I had already seen that there would not be enough room to do it topside. I tried pushing them out first, but they were too old and they crumbled. Wear safety glasses, they splinter into little shards and you don't want that brittle plastic getting in your eyes.
Moving to the backseat, I pulled out the TOP backseat portion from the four beefy metal clips (using a flathead screwdriver to "spring" them). The clips are like spring-loaded hinges. Place the screwdriver into the middle of the hinge, push hard into it and pull the seatback out, pushing the seatbelts aside and exposing the push-type retainers holding the back deck in place. I pulled those using a flathead screwdriver to coax them out and lifted the overdeck, which is quite light. The sub is sitting there on a fiberglas deck under the overdeck panel. NOTE: I did this without removing the bottom portion of the backseat, which made the work A LOT easier on the knees and back! The sub speaker grill is part of the overdeck panel, so there is no need to remove it. I simply lifted out the GM sub and tossed it. The difference in construction between the Kicker and the GM was substantial. Sorry, I couldn't resist the pun.
Holding up the overdeck panel, I placed the Kicker in the cutout without modification. A friend was in the trunk and held the Kicker up a couple inches while I applied a bead of Black RTV adhesive around the edge of the cutout. We placed the Kicker in position, gave it a little twisting motion to settle the adhesive and left it alone for an hour. Connecting the wiring: one pair of Black - Black/Red wires to each voice coil (+1, -1 and +2, -2) was the wiring I used and the Kicker made that super easy. It's parallel wiring, which makes the two 2-ohm voice coils act as a 1-ohm load. Fewer ohms = more current = more wattage (power) = louder bass. Set the overdeck back in place, push the retainers back in, and push the seatback into the clips. One thing: there will probably be some very sticky automotive lube or sealer that will get on the "wings" of the seatback due to this operation. Be sure to clean it off.
The base sound system has a single 250-watt amplifier for all eight speakers; there is not a separate sub amp. The Kicker power handling range goes from 50-300 watts. I found I needed to boost the bass eq from the middle position to about 75% to get the levels I wanted, but it's not even breathing heavy. I'm delighted with the quality of the low-end on the bass guitar and kick drum! The Kicker will need some break-in time, but I can testify that it's already gotten better and punchier after a few months.
Sub stuff - the OEM p/n for this speaker is AC Delco #16246789 and it's on Amazon new for $243.74. There is another sub that, according to the Fit Guide, is for a 2003 CTS and is not a replacement for the 2002 Deville. There are several reviewer comments to the contrary, and this speaker sells on Amazon new for only $81.42! However, the Kicker is a better speaker and it sells for $89.95 on Amazon. I watched it for awhile and got it on sale for $47, so you could save big if you keep an eye out for those quick sales. But, at even money, it's a better bass speaker.
I hope this is helpful. It's the distilled info from my search across a wide variety of forums and sources, as well as my personal experience. Good luck!
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