I have been planning this install for a while now and even used the ‘92 Eldorado as a test bed and it sounded great. Yes it is back to original and I did not cut anything.
For those who wish to follow my stereo install, here you go…
- Kenwood’s new DNX-9990HD, Nav, Bluetooth, USB, DVD. It has everything.
- CMOS 310 camera front and rear
- (2) JL Audio 300/2 150W/channel
- (1) JL Audio 600/1 600W/channel
- Focal 165 KRX2’s for the front
- Focal 690’s for the rear
- JL Audio 12W6 Subwoofer
- Seagate360 GB storage drive for audio/video files
Stuff it into a 2002 ETC.
Taz <--Stay tuned and seriously stay away from the GMOS stuff, go PAC or build your own.
P.S. To RIM or Not to RIM, that is the question. The answer depends on what original functionality I wish to keep I'm sure. Time to dig into schematics.
My goal is to beat the BMW Harmon Kardon premium sound systems. The best audio integration I have seen or heard EVER!!!
The amp board was from a '93 I found in a junk yard and not the original.
This time, I think I'm going stealth. There is a lot of unused space in the trunk to hide amps and such. I would need ventillation though.
Also, If anyone needs an update on the Big3, let me know as this car is getting it as well.
A little more info while I have time.
The Big 3 is about power generation and distribution for high current systems. I plan on using an aftermarket alternator (260 amp) with oversized pully to maintain voltage and current at idle. I'm using 4 gauge distribution wring and 8 gauge amp wiring. If you play your music load and often with this wattage (1100), use 2 and 4 gauge. My personal preference is to have amps working at the middle of their range. Enough to warm them up but not get hot.
I've tested out a GMOS-06 and AWSC. They worked for the most part, but not to my likeing. They are glitchy. The sound is surprizingly not bad though. I have a pac coming to test out. If that fails, I'll build an interface. There are instructions on the board.
I think I'll keep the LAN bus intact (Serial Data Link Interface Class2) and look into modifying things such as the onstar buttons activating the DNX-9990HD's phone interface. I'm also thinking about how to keep the audio signal clean. Meaning shielded Monster RCA's straight to the amps and retain the left front functionality from the RIM. I know I can always sum the outputs into the left front amp but I want to see if I can use part of the RIM itself first. There is inhirent static in the Bose system I don't want. Not sure where it's being introduced and it is VERY low. Open your driver door in a quiet place (ignition off) and wait 10 minutes, put your ear up to the left front speaker and you'll hear it. It is either from the RIM signal to the door amp, or the amp itself.
Valentines day and wifey home gotta run.
Write more when I can.
I might do a test and take the outputs from the DNX and run into the Bose amp to see which it is.
Dinners on and I have a few minutes...
About the speakers...JL Audio makes one of the best subs. The W6 is a true 12" while the W7 is 13. So know that if you go that route. It has dual 4ohm voice coils. I have them wired in parallel so 2 ohm. This amp is stable enough for that load. The box in the picture is a 1.5cu ported. If you like bass, this is your setup. I intentially went overkill on the amp and sub so I can test out different box configurations. The new box is .75 sealed which takes more power to drive but gives tighter bass and takes up less room. The end goal here is to find the right balance and then have a custom box built to fit in the enpty space by the atenna.
The fronts are 650's. 6.5 inch mids with a 1" inverted soft dome tweeter and mount on the door plastic molding. MidBass_resize.jpg Tweeters_resize.jpg
There is a company that cnc's the plates for the mids which replaces the entire bose mounts allowing for a 6.5" speaker. Some triming on the door panel is required to allow room for the top of the speaker to move. You can find them at http://www.car-speaker-adapters.com/
Now I have a question...
Has anyone found a cool way to add a usb port and make it look factory?
The DNX has two usb's, one's going to the hard drive (most likely in the glove box) and I'd like one to be integrated so I can plug whatever into it. To charge a phone, plug someone else' usb drive in for music/video etc.
I'm going to do the doors, floor and firewall first and see how that turns out.
I haven't done this before, and I don't look forward to doing the roof. So if i can get away without it, cool.
I don't really see the need to do the trunk. But, something needs to be done for the deck speakers.
Here is the plan for the usb port. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i00
This is just a usb charger and I plan to cut it up and use the face plate and part of the barrel for support. Then wire in a typical computer usb port for the DNX to connect to.
I'll post pics when I do it.
Dynamatting completed. Yeah, extra wires, I ran power, speaker, SAT, Mic and reverse sensing (relay #4) wires while it was apart. You have to remove the HVAC box to drill the firewall for the 4 gauge power cable stuffing box.
And the PAC interface sucked as well. It would not retain the hot lead so my HU kept loosing it's setting. I had to set up the rear view camera everytime I started the car. The chime interface and my bluetooth did not work. The bluetooth was the weird part, I could not hear the caller but they could hear me. BT is built into the HU so the RIM is interferring somehow.
I will be building a custom interface using the PAC for serial data lines only. Everything else will come off the GM32 connector direct to the HU and RCA's to the trunk.
I will test out the PAC steering wheel control because it has more programability. I know the Axxess AWSC (or something like that) does work off the serial data line. If all you want is steering wheel controls just give this power from RAP and tap E6 for sensing. No need for the GMOS interface.
The Pac steering wheel controls tap off C&E circuit ( I think circuit 1390 (lost the page) on C202 A1) and uses vaiable resistance values for sensing and signaling.
I know there are chips for the Class 2 serial data. I may create my own signaling and switching circuit. We'll see.
Next, find someplace to hide 3 big amps and build the rack.
Hymm. I thought there would have been more interest.
I've determine best interface methods and doing the install this weekend.
I've decided to go clean and going with a 5 channel 900 Watt install. I could not find enough hidden real estate for 3 seperate amps.
I've got some brand new JL slash series amps with about a months use on them if anyone is intersted. (2) 300/2 and (1) 500/1.
Im digging the quality job your doing with this. My tape deck gave up the ghost so Im installing a Jensen VM9115 single din in my 99 so I will be leaning on your input here to guide me. Nice work!!
I finished the job and got the "bums rush" from the wife as she had made plans for spring break with the kids. And as usual she always informs me...2 hours in advance.
I snapped some pics of the doors going together with the cell. Quality is not that great.
I used a PAC interface with the AWSC steering wheel control. I returned the PAC and got a new one thinking there was something wrong with it. It kept dropping constant 12v. Turns out it's the design. PAC take RAP as the contant +12v. I ran a contant 12v line to the head unit and used the rest from PAC. Then the antenna partially went up sometimes, so I bypassed the PAC on that. If I were to do it over (and I might), I would take the +12v and run into PAC at pin15 on the OS-GM32, then take the original wire out of the GM32 and run into the relay for RAP accessory power. This way the chimes would work all the time and not just when RAP was hot.
If you want a headache, try out the PAC steering wheel interface. It uses resistance values off of C&E circuit on C202. The AWSC uses the serial data line.
Both PAC and GMOS short the E6 and F6 serial data lines. Other than knowing when the ignition is on, there was no need for me to have any interface.
I pulled the VCU and VIU boxes in the trunk and ground out the moutning tabs. This is where I put the 5 channel JL amp. The 2 Farad cap is on the fender well.
When I break the amp in and tune it, I'll snap some pics.
Dynomatted door. Speakers02_resize.jpg
I have to give credit. Bose did a great job at the time engineering the system they did. However, late '90's tech cannot compete with todays solid class D amps.
The car sounds amazing and super quiet from the Dynamat.
Edit: The entire inside door is dynamatted not just the mounting surface the speaker plate went on.
Here is an update to the project:
Almost everything is installed. I will be building a custom fiberglass enclosure to fit the side of the trunk by the antena. In the meantime I tested out a sealed .75 cf unclosure and with enough power, not bad. 500watts to a JL 12W6 in a .75cf box was enough bass for me.
I went with the GMOS-06 because it did pick up the RAP data on the serial line. I pulled everything off it except RAP power and serial data in and got two radio RAP outputs. Turns off when (ignition off AND door open).
Here's the pic. StereoInstall01_resize.JPG
Next I put the hard drive in the glovebox. StereoInstall05_resize.JPG StereoInstall06_resize.JPG
Here is the HU in StereoInstall08_resize.JPG
Close up...It's No Doubdt that's Gwenny (ok, bad play on words) but they do have some great tunes to test with, wide range. StereoInstall10_resize.JPG
I'll test out the PAC chime eventually and see what it can do, and post some pics of the fiberglass box construction if anyone is interested.