Adding Speakers?
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Cadillac Audio, Video and Security Systems Discussion, Adding Speakers? in Item Specific Cadillac Discussion; Although I am impressed with the Bose in my 06 DTS, I believe my Vette and STS was better, (Probably ...
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    USSBlackPearlUSMC is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Adding Speakers?

    Although I am impressed with the Bose in my 06 DTS, I believe my Vette and STS was better, (Probably due to cabin size), so I am adding a NAV screen, and was thinking of adding 2 6x9 Bose to the rear dash, I believe only the sub is back there and 2 6x9 would fill a void. Should I run lines from rear door speakers or the sub? I believe most Bose 6x9 also have amps built in. Any suggestions for install?

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    Hairball's Avatar
    Hairball is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: Adding Speakers?

    NOT a good idea to run speakers off other speakers connected to ANY factory deck, Bose or otherwise! Assuming your stock Bose head unit runs 4 ohm speakers (some stock speakers are even lower like 3 ohm), if you just connect new speaker + and - to factory speaker + and - (parallel) you'll end up creating a 2 ohm load on your deck, and I've never heard of a stock head unit of any brand that handles 2 ohm loads. Not only that, the head unit would actually "see it" as 1 ohm! You'll fry your deck in no time! Alternatively, if you disconnect the negative of a factory speaker and connect a new speaker's positive to the stock speaker neg then the new speaker's neg to the deck side of the negative (series), you'll create an 8 ohm load which is fine and safe for any stock deck but will cut way down on your bass and lows and you'll lose power output.

    (I'm sure someone will come along and disagree with me, but it's all explained clearly in the MECP Study Guide as well as countless other sources of info.)

    My suggestion would be to disconnect your factory speakers and connect your new ones to the speaker leads from your deck.

  4. #3
    USSBlackPearlUSMC is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Adding Speakers?

    Would supply an additional amp to additional speaker and run leads from the wires to the new speakers work? Im not exactly experienced in auto systems, just mechanics haha. Do they make an aftermarket touchscreen that would fit nicely in a DTS dash? It is an 06

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    Hairball's Avatar
    Hairball is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    The LONG answer...

    Quote Originally Posted by USSBlackPearlUSMC View Post
    Would supply an additional amp to additional speaker and run leads from the wires to the new speakers work? Im not exactly experienced in auto systems, just mechanics haha. Do they make an aftermarket touchscreen that would fit nicely in a DTS dash? It is an 06
    Yes and Yes! An additional amp would solve ALL your problems (and give you better sound). You can buy them that work off your deck's speaker wires (high-level inputs) in case your factory deck doesn't have RCA outputs.

    Without a doubt there are tons of aftermarket would fit your car. But you'll need to search all the other threads and figure out how to swap it because of your factory wiring and harnesses and computers and stuff.

    Now, about selecting speakers and/or amplifier that I always stress to people:

    Speakers: Look for speakers with high Sensitivity ratings, at least 90dB. Anything lower are just cheap, crappy speakers most of the time and anything higher are usually awesome speakers and don't require as much power to drive them. Also, another very important spec to look for is a broad Frequency Response curve. They are rated like "50-20,000 Hz" for example. Look for a higher first number (lows) and higher second number (highs) and you'll be getting some great speakers. For example, the 6x9 speakers I'm putting in my Seville have a frequency response of 35-30,000 Hz and are 2 ohm, so they're getting some of the lowest lows and highest highs found it most speakers. A human (if you know one, LOL!) can only hear in the 20-20,000 Hz range, so I guess my 35,000 high frequencies will only help make my ears bleed or shatter my beer bottle! Kidding about the beer bottle. It's almost impossible to find 6x9's that go down to 20 Hz. Those are more of subwoofer specs. Oh, and contrary to popular belief, don't concern yourself too much on watts of power handling other than as note below (LESS than your amp puts out). Trust me, if you find a pair of 6x9 speakers with Sensitivity above 90dB and good F/R ratings, they'll most likely handle decent power.

    Now for the Amp: If you just want slightly better than stock sound quality, you won't need a lot of watts. I'd suggest (if you're only going to run a pair of 6x9's from it) a minimum of 50 watts RMS or more. More important in choosing a good amp is a high Signal-to-Noise Ratio (look for around 90db or higher). Another spec to look for is % of THD (don't settle for anything higher than about 0.01% or you'll regret it). And finally, contrary to popular belief, you want an amp with higher RMS output than your speakers RMS power handling. The average shade-tree car stereo enthusiast believes this is a bad thing because you can blow up your speakers by putting too much power into them. True, this is always possible, but only if you turn your volume to max and have your amp gains set to max. The truth/theory is: distortion is not really caused by cheap speakers, it's caused by clipping of your power source (amp or head unit). If you had an amp that put out 50wpc RMS driving speakers that handled 200wpc RMS, the amp would have to overwork itself to power the speakers to their full potential. It would eventually start clipping before the speakers really came to life, resulting in distortion. So, it's better to get an amp with MORE power output than your speakers are rated for. For example, if your speakers handle 50wpm RMS, get an amp that puts out 100wpc RMS and your speakers with get the sound they were designed for before your amp has a chance to distort.

    There you go! Your morning classroom dose of Amp & Speaker Selection 101. You might want to copy and paste all this so you can save it and refer to it later. I'm far from an expert, but I've been messing with car audio for 35+ years and learned a LOT about important specs and how to chose the proper components to match to each other. Besides, any reputable car audio dealer, installer, or online company will agree with everything I mentioned here.

    Good luck!

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    USSBlackPearlUSMC is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: The LONG answer...

    Thats awesome, thank you!

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    Hairball's Avatar
    Hairball is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: The LONG answer...

    Quote Originally Posted by USSBlackPearlUSMC View Post
    Thats awesome, thank you!
    My pleasure. Always happy to give my opinions on selecting car audio stuff. Most comes from years of installing for myself and friends & family, but a lot of what I learned was from books, magazines, and other sources.

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    Hairball's Avatar
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    Re: Adding Speakers?

    A good example of what I was suggesting is clear in what I've matched up that I'm getting ready to install in my 93 Seville.

    Precision Power S420.2 amp with 210 wpc RMS at 2 ohms to Infinity Kappa 693.9i 6x9's that "only" handle 110 wpc RMS.
    Precision Power S200.2 amp with 100 wpc RMS at 2 ohms to Infinity Kappy 63.9i 6-1/2's that "only" handle 75 wpc RMS.
    Precision Power S1300.1D amp with 1300 watts RMS at 1 ohm to two 2 ohm Pioneer TS-W3002D2 12's that "only" handle 1000 watts RMS.

    As you can see, all the amps put out more RMS power than the speakers are rated in RMS. There's a reason for that. And believe me, I'll probably NEVER have this system at much more than half to three quarter volume.

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