This gives me hope I might try it once I fix my other issues
dude. You sold me now. I just got my avic-z120bt and am doing the install on 98 sts seville with BOSE. whats the cheapest place u found the gmos-06?
I jut ordereed a double din touch screen for my 01 seville and i currently do not use or pay for onstar, so do i still need that gmos 06 part? The unit im getting has an iso output which i kno shouldnt fit so im assuming ill have to cut and reconnect wires but will i still have any problems with that? I read in another topic that i may lose chimes? or i have to reconnect my originall unit in the trunk?
on Bose, you can either relocate the head unit to another part of the car (glove box or trunk), or use the GMOS or compatible unit.
If your car is non-bose then I think you are OK and don't need to relocate anything just use a harness made for your non-bose car.
yea i belive it is bose i kno the guy i bought it from put some polk audio speakers in the front but i took a look at the speaker in the back window and it was bose. Yea i wont have a problem putting it in my trunk but what wires would still be needed to stay connected? and why is this?
I'm not an expert at installs, but I did 2 things.. first I installed the Avic F90BT with a GMOS-06 and didn't hook up the Onstar part. When I curiously clicked the ONstar button, the stereo shut down! WHen the Onstar voice left, the stereo booted up (the Avic isn't really fast at startup as it's basically a crippled PC loading Windows Mobile). I then hooked up the wires as indicated and it simply muted the audio when Lisa Davis, the Onstar advisor recording came on. lol.
I think with BOSE hardware, the issue is the head unit controls the amp. Without the head unit, noone controls the amp (called R.I.M)--it doesn't have inputs for aftermarket stereos. So in order to use your speakers and amp, you need the head unit to control it. The GMOS-06 pretends to be the head unit and provides you with wires to hook up to your aftermarket stereo. The processor in the GMOS then translates and communicates with the amp in the back. I hope this explanation is useful. I wish N*Caddy was here. You can look him up and see his project rewiring a non-BOSE STS into a BOSE STS... it is no cake walk!
hmm yea i understand now, i am just on ebay right now debaiting if i should order this unit or not lol I wouldnt have a problem with the unit in the trunk im just wondering which wires still need to be connected i mean if its just power and ground im assuming that could run right to the battery under the back seat. I just dont want to have things start going on and off at random lol but i deff want to upgrade.
if you're sure it's BOSE (sorry I keep asking!), all you need are the two GM 32-pin connectors (male and female) and spare pins (2 connectors of each perhaps--I have 1 female unwrapped because I had a spare the part is GM03RB PM me and I'll give it to you at cost but you'll need one more, and then the 2 males--can't remember the part number right now but can look it up later if you can't find it) and with the wiring diagram you splice into the audio ONLY, match everything else and run it as long as you need--every single factory cable you extend. You'll need good quality wire and will also need to shield it somehow (I'm no expert there). I put mine in the glovebox so it wasn't a terribly long extension.
you gotta be sure it's the whole BOSE unit (usually says BOSE on it), else this information above does NOT apply!
Yes i checked it BOSE, but im confused here sorry why would i need so many connectors? Wouldnt i be able to cut the wire harness that is in the radio already and then run longer wire iinbetween matching everything? And then from the new unit i just cut into the already existing wires i made longer and match the audio? Even with both radios hooked up will the new one be the one in full control or would they both be able to operate? Sorry for so many questions but i just dont want to run into anyhting unexpected id rather have an idea of what im doing before i jump right in, i mean ive done install jobs on plenty of cars but nothing newer involving things like this lol
The reason is one should not cut the factory harness. The 2 connectors will allow you to make an extension between the factory plug and the head unit. This way you can always unplug it and voila! back to factory.
The BOSE head unit will control the amp volume and the DSP setting, and also can control right/left/front/back balance if you wish as well as treble/bass/mid. The only thing your aftermarket head unit will do is provide the new audio (low level RCA NOT Speaker OUT!!) to the amp. All other wires should remain connected (class 2, etc).
This means your steering wheel controls would still control the volume too. The head unit must remain on as well, and make sure that you set it up so that when you shut it off, power is cut off to the aftermarket unit (I used the antenna power to operate a relay that turns the aftermarket unit off and on).
You can leave the BOSE head unit volume fixed (say 3/4 of the way up) and rely on your aftermarket knob for that volume. but the BOSE system self-adjusts and the volume will go up when there's silence and that'll come across as static/white noise until sound comes out or gets louder (say if there's a quiet section of an mp3 or whatever) then the volume adjusts again.
The pro of this system is that the noise compensation microphones still adjust the volume up and down based on road noise.
Edit: the part about the last owner installing Polk speakers in the front concerns me. bose speakers are 1 ohm I believe, so these Polks are probably not sounding very good OR you have a base non-BOSE system, that someone has added a bose subwoofer to. You may be better off starting a new thread so it gets attention from the guys that know the system better than I do.
hey guys. Just wanted to let u know my progress. I am installing an avic z120bt with the gmos-06 and the metra 95-2005b kit in a 98 seville sts with bose. hiding the wires is a real PITA! Maybe the OP can chime in, but i followed the exact directions in the manual and it told me to cut the wrong tabs!! So now i have a kit i cannot use. The front tabs need cut not the rear ones. Now i cant screw in the bottom 2 screws that hold the cc in!! Damn I am mad! I just voiced my displeasure with metra and told them they should send me a new one! I have had no problems with the gmos-06. Everything works like it is supposed to. That avic is SWEEEEET!!
My question is this: Exactly which functions will i lose by disconnecting the Bose Head Unit? Will i loose memory seats/mirrors, etc? will i lose the parking backup assist? anything else? I dont care about Onstar nor radio controls in the steering wheel, so if thats all i lose, then im ok with that. If all of the system chimes are routed through the bose head unit, perhaps theres a way to channel them into my new aftermarket head unit when i install it? it DOES have an AUx INput, perhaps something can be rigged or setup?
Thanks in advanced for any help, and sorry for hijacking the thread.
I knoW this is an old thread but does anyone know what dash kit this is? Looks a little different than my metra.