Cadillac Audio, Video and Security Systems Discussion, CD Changer to MP3 Player in Item Specific Cadillac Discussion; Originally Posted by N*Caddy
The Jack connector is EXACTLY what you need, good job finding it!
The microrelays are $5 ...
The Jack connector is EXACTLY what you need, good job finding it!
The microrelays are $5 and should be 12V with 2 pairs of contacts NC/NO/COM (total of 8 pins).
This is a picture of the microrelays mounted in the box:
Since you have a Deville you can fit the connector right on the frame around the HU like I did in this picture:
As for Cooksville they are open Saturday up to 1:00PM. They won't know about the connector, you have to go and locate the silver '99 Deville and the green '97 STS they have, the STS is a BOSE system while the Deville is base. You can get the HU connector and some pigtail harness from any of the two cars (but the easiest one is the Deville).
As you (almost) see in the picture, I cut a small portion of the PCB exactly the size of the connector and soldered the wires (22 AWG) to it. I also used the PCB to solder some solid wires that are embedded (melted) in the back of the plastic frame (that's what holds the connector). It is very precise work to drill the exact size hole and embed the wires in the plastic deep enough to hold but not too deep to break on the other side. I guess you can use epoxy for extra strength.
Here is a picture with a finished AUX input box (the loose wires suppose to be connected to the AUX input jack).
This is the suggested PCB layout (see the relay footprint):
Very, very small thing to work on (is designed for the box pictured above)
I'm having some difficulties locating all of the components required for this project... After researching several of your threads regarding this project, I've compiled a list of all the required components, let me know if I've missed anything.
-1 female radio connector (junkyard is best)
-1 male radio connector (aftermarket)
-2 micro relays (8 pin, each has 2 normally open and 2 normally closed switches)
-3.5mm audio jack (5 pin, switching)
-Project box, exact size unknown
-PCB, exact size unknown
-Shielded wiring, guage unsure
As stated above, there are a few aspects I could use clarification with:
1) How many pins do we require in the female/male connectors? I assume the female radio connector would have the correct amount of pins required, but the aftermarket may not.
2) Can you provide us with the dimensions of the project box you used?
3) What gauge of shielded wiring should one use for the entirety of this harness? I see you used 22 AWG for your Deville 3.5mm jack to radio harness, but perhaps you did so as space was tight behind the plastic frame. I'd like to keep my wiring the same as the factory harness, what's best to use?
Also, if you happen to have some free time, could you perhaps link me to some of the components via DigiKey or other? I've been looking somewhat, but I'm trying to compare the photos of what you have used to the photos of the products they carry. Sometimes they don't give an appropriate view, and most of the time they mention photo may not be representative of the actual product. I'm unsure of the the technical specifications of each of the components, the microrelays and the 3.5mm female audio jack are giving me the most problem.
- Relays: 2 pcs Omron 6GA-274P-SR-US (you can use any equivalent 12V DC relay)
- PCB dimensions: Note the standard 0.1' (2.54mm) standard grid I pictured on the PCB layout. Counting them you get 17x11 grid. Add half the standard 1/2 of the grid spacing on each side as a border and you get 12x18, in inch is 1.2'x1.8'.
- Project box dimensions: large enough to fit a 1.2'x1.8' PCB (height ~0.5')
- The male aftermarket connector won't have enough pins so you need to purchase 2 identical connectors (harvest the extra pins you need from the second connector).
- In the HU harness the standard (audio) wire size is 22 AWG, the standard power wire size is 18 AWG.
- The Jack connector appears to be made by MULTICOMP (formerly SPC) and I can't find the P#, I found few P# for the base connector:SPC21348, SPC21349, SPC24110 but all are missing the extension attached to the back (a pair of COM/NC/NO contacts). This snaps onto the back of the connectors I mentioned, I can't find the P# with the extension or the extension's P#. You can substitute it with a switch. Check this link (is just the base part of the connector, no attachment, maybe you have better luck finding it).
Look at the pictures for the P# I provided and this below: .
Note the extension that snaps in the back of the connector...you need that (or add a switch).
-Checking the specs given on the supplied data sheet (http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/1551F.pdf), the measurements you provided are very, very close to those given for the maximum PCB size. Same as you used? I don't want to go any bigger than necessary, but I'm thinking of going slightly larger as your PCB layout is so tight! I'm also unsure if you etched your own PCB or used one like this:
The relays are NOT correct!!!!! Note the specs: "Coil Voltage: 24 VDC" - you need 12VDC coil: THIS ONE.
The Hammond Enclosure is EXACTLY the one I used.
I am etching my own PCBs, but if you don't know how to do that you can use the generic PCB and solder the pattern between the eyelets (not very professional looking but will get the job done).
For the JACK connector, you need the BEST quality one you can find as is the ware point in the system (plug and unplug the AUX cable many times).
Both connectors you found seem to be correct (I like the second one better).
I have etched PCB's once before (I'm in my fourth year studying Biomedical Electrical Engineering at the University of Manitoba), but I don't have any of the supplies at home.
Would you consider etching one for me?
I'm totally confident in completing this project, but I'd like this to be a permanent solution and thus the highest quality possible.
I was also thinking about the quality of the jacks last night, and for my application I currently have the AUX cable mounted mostly behind the dash with just the 3.5mm male end coming through the small gap near the lighter and ash tray. I'd like to mount that 3.5mm female jack somewhere permanently as the current vehicles do, but I'm also opposed to drilling any holes anywhere! Anyways, the point of this is that the 3.5mm female jack no longer is the wear point, but instead the male end of the AUX cable. Perhaps I can get away with a lesser quality jack in this instance if I cannot find anything better, I really don't want to have a manual switch..
The whole point of the AUX connector with a integrated switch is to SWITCH on HU when the male jack connector is plugged in. So you can't leave the cable inserted in the AUX connector and just plug it or unplug it from your device as the sound system will be permanently on AUX input. Your female connector IS the ware point in the system.
As for etching the PCB, like I mentioned you can use the generic board, is not that bad, you can use a fine file to smooth the soldering and make it look quite decent.
Etching PCB can be done the simplest way by using one of those Etch Resistant pens (they look like a Sharpie permanent marker) and cost about $8 to $10 each (I know the damn thing are pricey!). One should be enough for one or 2 PCB of this size. You need to make 2 PCBs as the AUX connector mounts on one. Buy a FINE tip one Click on the picture for ebay items.
Just go to your local electronic parts supplier and ask for etching solution, etch resistant pen and a blank single side PCB. Should cost you about $35-$40 in total (if you go with the etching solution).
You can use any flat plastic tray you have, like one of those food containers or chocolate cases like the one below (eat the chocolate and etch a PCB ):
Obviously do not use it for anything else once you are done etching
As for the placement of the AUX input...I used the ash tray as well (see here the PCB)
The reason, if I change my mind I can always find another ashtray and replace it.
Another place where you can install it is on the side of the center console (like left or right of the climate control using a project box that you cover with carpet so is just like a small bulge on the side of the center console.
GM installs it in the center console in the new cars. The center console insert is fairly easy to find and replace if you screw it up or change your mind.
Hey N*, I understand now, this alters my plans somewhat though as I was hoping not to have to drill any holes anywhere. Oh well, wishful thinking, but I do like the idea of having the female input jack permanently mounted as in the newer GM vehicles. Besides, having the cable on my car as it is now requires some "finessing" to get it to go back behind the dash when you pull it out.
So this pushes back my plans somewhat, as I will now begin to search for another ash tray surround (black plastic) as well as the other components. Mine is still like absolute brand new, so I'd hate to drill a hole in that one. I'll save mine and drill a hole in another one.
Thanks again for all your help N*, I now hope to have this project ready to install by the time summer rolls around, I'll probably have a few more questions for you along the way.
Use two micro-relays (2 NC/NO). One for common and one for L+ and R+ and for control power use the power antenna signal.
I made a small PCB in a box on the harness, here are the pictures:
Finally somebody understands me!
Wow that's allot of work adding relays and all that, but honestly you don't need to wire in relays that's just more work that you don't need to do, not sure if anyone has realized it yet or not but the 3.5 mm female jack that you have pictured and your telling every one the must use for this project will do the same work of the 2 relays with out needing them. If you wire the 3.5 mm female jack in properly it will do all the switching for you. Think about it you have an Ipod, Mp3 player radio anything that has speakers built in and a head phone jack what happens when you plug head phones into the jack? The sound cuts out from the speakers right? Well it's the headphone jack that does all the work. The pins on the jack, there are 2 pins that are a left and right audio input and 2 that are an left and right audio out and then the common pin, for example if you were to use the cd changer input as our AUX input you commonly have 3 wires coming from the changer to the HU and 1 wire that's the common if you cut the 3 wires in half and you hook the 3 wires from the changer to the correct 3 pins on the headphone jack, then take the other end of those wires which go to the HU and connect them to the other 3 pins on the headphone jack then you have your AUX and your relays right there the jack acts as your relay you plug your ipod or mp3 what ever into the jack now it will cut out the sound from the changer, tape deck what ever you put the jack in the middle of and will now take the input from the 3.5 wire, when you unplug your 3.5 wire then it reconnects the circuit and you get the sound from the changer, tape deck ect just as normal gain you pug in your 3.5 wire to the jack it disconects the signal from the changer or what ever and takes the signal from the 3.5 again disconect the 3.5 wire and it reconnects your circuit from what ever you wired it from. I hope this makes sence lol I'm not the best at explaining things sometimes. just keep in mind that 3.5 jack does the same thing as the 2 relays our wiring in there.
Except with w/o the 2 relay you can't put a small delay when connecting/disconnecting the AUX jack connector (eliminates some noise, didn't mention of the 555 timer and such, and a small amplifier), is a Cadillac not a Ford. Also if the connector goes bust…your relay will keep the HU connected to the RIM/AMP while with just the connector you may have no tunes. The solution is a bit more than just what it looks like.