DIY Spark Plug R & R
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Cadillac ATS Technical Discussion Forum Discussion, DIY Spark Plug R & R in Cadillac ATS Discussion Forums; This for all the non gear-heads on this forum. You would think that changing the plugs on a 4 cyl ...
  1. #1
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    DIY Spark Plug R & R

    This for all the non gear-heads on this forum. You would think that changing the plugs on a 4 cyl engine would be a no brainier. But, it can be a task if you have never done it.

    You will need the following:

    TOOLS

    3/8's Ratchet
    long & short extension
    5/8's spark plug socket
    10mm socket
    10mm ratchet wrench
    5/32 hex key/allen wrench
    plug gapping tools
    tube of Never Seize
    AC Delco 41-125 plugs if plan to change.



    First you need to remove the engine cover. Remove the Oil filler cap, using the 5/32 hex key to remove the engine cover bolt, lift cover up about 4" and pull forward to remove the cover. Now replace the Oil filler cap.



    Next disconnect the coil wire with the red clip release. Next remove the coil hold down bolt and remove the coil. Now you can remove the spark plug, check the gap or replace it. I add a dab of Never Seize to the threads before installing the plug back into the head. There is a torque spec for the plugs but after 40 or 50 years of replacing plugs you get a feel for it. I just crank them down until they seat and give maybe a 1/4 turn.

    The rear plug is a PITA to remove as you have to release the engine cover hold down support via 2 10mm bolts. Here is where the ratcheting box end wrench comes in handy.







    Now that your done start the engine before you button up everything.
    Hoosier Daddy likes this.

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  3. #2
    sqkid89 is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: DIY Spark Plug R & R

    So why the plug change? Adjusting gap, going to something colder/hotter, just going in for an inspection?

  4. #3
    oemtech's Avatar
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    Re: DIY Spark Plug R & R

    Inspection, re-gap and add Never Seize.

    The plug gap is .035 and mine were about .028. Also, they looked like they had been running a bit rich. Lastly, I added Never Seize as I have had all the battles I want with semi welded plugs in aluminum heads. GM might say the plugs are good for 100,000 but don't believe it.

    Here is a set of plugs with 78,000 miles on then that I pulled from a 8.1L Chevy used in a RV. Will ours look like these? Probably not.


  5. #4
    sqkid89 is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: DIY Spark Plug R & R

    Quote Originally Posted by oemtech View Post
    Inspection, re-gap and add Never Seize.

    The plug gap is .035 and mine were about .028. Also, they looked like they had been running a bit rich. Lastly, I added Never Seize as I have had all the battles I want with semi welded plugs in aluminum heads. GM might say the plugs are good for 100,000 but don't believe it.
    Good to know. I'm actually going to be doing the opposite of you - gapping down a touch. Seems like the new parts and tune might be too much for the .035" spacing, but I guess I'll have to check mine to see where they are compared to your findings...

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    Re: DIY Spark Plug R & R

    Generally speaking I would not change the gap with a tune unless it was on the recommendation of the tuner. Some of the Hemi guys are running a 3 bar map so they can measure over 14.5 psi of boost and are running 1 to 2 levels colder plugs. Remember on a Hemi you get to change 16 plugs. I would suspect the 2.0 is only using a 2 bar MAP which limits you to 14.5 psi boost as our atmosphere takes up the first 14.5.

    Also I have yet to see anyone here running a wideband O2 sensor to measure the actual AFR. Lastly we need a boost gauge and/or EGT to really see what is going on with the 2.0 turbo.

  7. #6
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    Re: DIY Spark Plug R & R

    Quote Originally Posted by oemtech View Post
    I would suspect the 2.0 is only using a 2 bar MAP which limits you to 14.5 psi boost as our atmosphere takes up the first 14.5.

    Also I have yet to see anyone here running a wideband O2 sensor to measure the actual AFR. Lastly we need a boost gauge and/or EGT to really see what is going on with the 2.0 turbo.
    The MAP sensor reads to 250 kPa. Above that we're guessing at the tune, but the car will put out boost in excess of that.

    I've seen widebands on the dyno. Trent and a couple other guys may be running around with the WB attached full time. Based on limited data points, the car runs pretty rich from the factory.

    BTW, Nice thread.

  8. #7
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    Re: DIY Spark Plug R & R

    From what I know and read 250kPa is a 2 bar MAP.... so your still only going to see max 14.5 psi boost.

    I snagged this off the net... good info for us Boost newbies.

    Default MAP kPa to Boost PSI Equivalents
    Every 6.9 kPa over 101, is 1 psig of boost:
    101 kPa = 0 psi
    108 kPa = 1 psi
    115 kPa = 2 psi
    122 kPa = 3 psi
    129 kPa = 4 psi
    136 kPa = 5 psi
    143 kPa = 6 psi
    150 kPa = 7 psi
    157 kPa = 8 psi
    164 kPa = 9 psi
    171 kPa = 10 psi
    177 kPa = 11 psi
    184 kPa = 12 psi
    191 kPa = 13 psi
    198 kPa = 14 psi
    205 kPa = 15 psi
    212 kPa = 16 psi
    219 kPa = 17 psi
    226 kPa = 18 psi
    233 kPa = 19 psi
    239 kPa = 20 psi
    246 kPa = 21 psi
    253 kPa = 22 psi
    260 kPa = 23 psi
    267 kPa = 24 psi
    274 kPa = 25 psi
    281 kPa = 26 psi
    288 kPa = 27 psi
    295 kPa = 28 psi
    301 kPa = 29 psi
    308 kPa = 30 psi
    315 kPa = 31 psi
    322 kPa = 32 psi
    329 kPa = 33 psi
    336 kPa = 34 psi
    343 kPa = 35 psi
    350 kPa = 36 psi
    357 kPa = 37 psi
    363 kPa = 38 psi
    370 kPa = 39 psi
    377 kPa = 40 psi
    384 kPa = 41 psi
    391 kPa = 42 psi
    398 kPa = 43 psi
    405 kPa = 44 psi
    412 kPa = 45 psi
    419 kPa = 46 psi
    425 kPa = 47 psi
    432 kPa = 48 psi
    439 kPa = 49 psi
    446 kPa = 50 psi
    453 kPa = 51 psi
    460 kPa = 52 psi
    467 kPa = 53 psi
    474 kPa = 54 psi
    481 kPa = 55 psi
    487 kPa = 56 psi
    494 kPa = 57 psi
    501 kPa = 58 psi
    508 kPa = 59 psi
    515 kPa = 60 psi




    1 bar MAP = 100 kPa / 00.00 PSIG - 14.50 PSIA (sea level - naturally aspirated)
    2 bar MAP = 200 kPa / 14.31 PSIG - 29.01 PSIA (sea level - forced induction)
    3 bar MAP = 300 kPa / 28.81 PSIG - 43.51 PSIA (sea level - forced induction)
    4 bar MAP = 400 kPa / 43.32 PSIG - 58.02 PSIA (sea level - forced induction)
    5 bar MAP = 500 kPa / 57.82 PSIG - 72.52 PSIA (sea level - forced induction)

  9. #8
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    Re: DIY Spark Plug R & R

    The boost sensor pids show more than 14 lbs. I can accurately read up to 254 kpa on the MAP sensor, which corresponds to 22lbs on your chart. At 255 kPa I can no longer know if I'm running that pressure or above it since it only reads 255 no matter what pressure it is at. Any engine system running off the MAP sensor just assumes max pressure at that point. However the car's boost sensor reads above that. The car calculates a boost pressure ratio that is used in wastegate control. I've seen 25lbs (over 39 psi less 14.5 for atmosphere) in my logs. I didn't go faster at that pressure; it was just proof that cam timing wasn't doing anything for me.

  10. #9
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    Re: DIY Spark Plug R & R

    What are you using to data log boost?

  11. #10
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    Re: DIY Spark Plug R & R

    I use HPT to log the data. Are asking which PIDs?

  12. #11
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    Re: DIY Spark Plug R & R

    boost sensor pressure is the PID

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