I have been chomping at the bit to start this thread, so here goes.
My ATS is strapped to the dyno as I type this
Baseline pulls will ensue shortly, then we'll start tearing into this calibration and see what kind of safe, repeatable gains we can offer to the masses.
I'll keep you guys updated as progress is made :devil:
It's hard to show the 'jolting/slamming/thud' feeling I get on the shifts but here is a quick video.
Cold start
2/3 shift under WOT
Touring mode, manual gear shifts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DK47u0ZJy2I
gm didnt put out many manuals due to the trans not even really rated for stock applications. Very minor mods will be sure to break it. I work at the largest trans shop on the east coast and ship all over the world and the bmw version of that trans fails on stock cars so think they just tried to stay away from having issues and stuck to a good known platform on the auto. Tuned right the auto will be faster every time so no point for a manual on this car anyway unless you really like pushing a clutch all the time. Mine with paddle shifters is plenty and my newly ordered Z06 is going to have the new 8 spd auto and plan on road racing it and still not going manual with that one. I dont een think a good clutch is out for the ats so another weak point on a modded car. Where I have build a custom stall converter for mine and can launch damn near full boost and get 60 fts as good as an all wheel drive but dont have the 3 to 4 mph suck from the drive train.
Hey all. Sorry for the long post, been absent from here for a while and figured I should post the promised update on the issues with my ATS that started way back in early August.
To recap - reduced power, rough idle, and audible knock/rattle at low rpm which got worse rapidly. This resulted in misfire codes putting it into "tc/stabilitrak disabled limp home mode".
Brought it to the dealer, and as predicted by tahawk69, they found low compression on one cylinder. Initially they found carbon buildup on a valve and flashing on the seat, sent the head out for machining. Put it all back together and the low compression persisted. Opened a TAC case and then another tear down to check for (the well known) piston ring land crack/damage. Which of course they found.
At this point it went to "waiting for parts" status for over a month. After several weekly calls for an update, wondering why pistons are in such short supply, the SA informed that he thought the reason was that the part was being changed over to something new. Shortly after they did finally get all the parts and get it put back together.
I had a brand new 2015 loaner the whole time so can't complain, the dealer was very accommodating. That was a couple of weeks ago now, been taking it easy at first to make sure everything is ok. So far so good.
Does anyone on the list have inside knowledge to confirm if they have in fact replaced the piston part with something new, and hopefully more durable? For me the durability of these engines is in serious question even if left stock. Some online research also seems to indicate that this same issue has been a large problem for quite some time with the previous gen engine used in other GM brands/models as well.
Also as a side note, the factory cal on the 2015 seemed improved on both the engine and trans. Nothing scientific, just everything "felt" smoother/better.
Hopefully, they have revised the piston material to be more durable. That would make sense due to how long you had to wait for parts. I think gm needs to step up and address this issue across the board. Not fair that we all may be driving an engine that is a ticking time bomb. Wouldn't mind if it was an unknown issue and some just had bad luck with the parts installed, but there is definitely more to the story and I am sure gm now knows or did know that the pistons may barely make it past the factory warranty.
I ran the tune for about 2 weeks. The first 2 days, the car was much faster, however I did notice some power fluctuations after 4.5K RPMs and a rough 2/3 shift with a clicking sound at WOT in touring mode. After a couple days, the car was down on power, developed a whistle sound, and started having a good amount of KR (could be coincidental and not tune related?). I sent some logs to Mike and he said it looked like bad fuel. (Mike is awesome by the way. He has answered about a million questions for me so far.) I switched back to the stock tune and changed gas stations. I also took the car to the dealer for the whistle sound. They said the turbo bolts backed off and needed to be retorqued. However, the whistle is still there (see you tube video link below). Also, I am recording a few degrees of KR with the stock tune even at light throttle. What do you guys think is going on? Boost leak? Vacuum leak? Exhaust leak? Fuel pump issue?
I ran the tune for about 2 weeks. The first 2 days, the car was much faster, however I did notice some power fluctuations after 4.5K RPMs and a rough 2/3 shift with a clicking sound at WOT in touring mode. After a couple days, the car was down on power, developed a whistle sound, and started having a good amount of KR (could be coincidental and not tune related?). I sent some logs to Mike and he said it looked like bad fuel. (Mike is awesome by the way. He has answered about a million questions for me so far.) I switched back to the stock tune and changed gas stations. I also took the car to the dealer for the whistle sound. They said the turbo bolts backed off and needed to be retorqued. However, the whistle is still there (see you tube video link below). Also, I am recording a few degrees of KR with the stock tune even at light throttle. What do you guys think is going on? Boost leak? Vacuum leak? Exhaust leak? Fuel pump issue?
Ok guys, here is the update: The dealer had to replace the turbo due to worn bearings which were causing the whine/whistle. I'm just guessing, but what I think happened was that the turbo bolts loosened up (know ATS issue/tsb) which caused boost leak. The boost leak caused the turbo to work much harder to build up the necessary boost which caused it to spin too fast and wear out the bearings early. The tune may have just sped up the wear.
Anyone know the max boost rating on these turbos? What about max rpms? I'm interested to know if tuning this car pushes the turbos past their specs. Thoughts?
Everytime I have been under my car with nyinstaller, we find something that's loose. Heck, there were 2 bolts half way backed out of their place, they were both holding random brackets in place.
Mike,my intune is on the way.
Since I ‘m in China,gasoline here use different ratings with US,for example RON 95(Cadillac recommend in the manual)NOT AKI in US,don't konw which tune is best for RON 95. Is there a way to make it sure?OR just start with the lower 91 tune and see ?OR use 93tune and do some logging?
Did some research,still not sure about it.
Well this is the first time I've posted to the forums in quite some time (years I believe), I've been following pretty close to the ATS forum since before I purchases my 14 ATS 2.0 and I have to say that Diablo (mike namely) has been extremely helpful and also want to thank Maryland speed for the excellent purchase process and help! I have very few complaints with my ATS unlike what seems many here do, and I wish everyone could go to the dealer we have here since they are willing to do anything to make a customer happy in the service department always top notch. So I just want to say thanks to Mike for all the reading I've been doing and the input he has given to this community.
Out of the box of the intune are we required to enter our own Tire sizes? This might be kind of a dumb question. Felt like my speedo was a little off, so I manually went in and adjusted the parameters for my stock 17s.
Do you guys seriously wait for the oil life monitor to tell you when to change your oil??? I realize gm has beat the proverbial dead horse about it being perfect but after all the gm motors I have torn down were some have changed there oil as the vehicle tells them to and others who go by recommended intervals and the difference in deposit build up is amazing, I'm talking like a third of the deposits seen in an engine with 100k versus another engine with the same miles with oil changes done when the monitor tells you too. Just an fyi to all Cadillac will pay for the oil changes when the oil life reads 20%
Current oil formulation are good from 5,000 to 7,500 miles before changing. 3,000 miles is old school dyno oil and engines that were put together "Plasitic Gauge". lol.
Ok you be that gullible, the oil life monitor has a range of 4k to over 10k, like we say many times on the forum, these formulas are made with discretion towards mileage and warranty purposes. I prefer longevity since I traded my sts in on my ats with 212k on the clock. Still stock motor and trans, you know how many transmissions were lost to gm's lifetime trans fill? So far 100% have not made it past the 150k mark. Change your oil people, Mobil 1 recommends 5k with there non long life oil. That's how far I go, which as per my last change was 46% on the monitor.
How do you suggest us "changing our oil" vs. Cadillac service paying for the oil change. 5k oil change vs a 7 or 8k oil change? I don't see any harm here...
It won't actually give you a "reset" option, just press and hold it on the oil life %. I haven't seen a car with cue this doesn't work on and have never heard of an olm not being able to be reset whenever you want and I've been a gm advisor for nearly 6 years now. I'd like to see a video or something of yours...
So you don't see a problem with going at least half again to double the mileage that the oil manufacturer recommends? I change mine in my cad ats at 60% then at 20% I have Cadillac do it, so far it goes right about 4200 miles between services doing it that way. I get half my oil changed free, good enough for my piece of mind. This could be the same debate for 87 octane fuel, yes you could do it, but why?
Not at all. You see the oil company has absolutely no idea of your car's condition, your driving environment or how you drive. Therefore they have to recommend a mileage that minimizes the number of unhappy customers.
Let's say you use your car for track days every weekend. By your logic, it would be smart to change the oil every x thousand miles like the oil maker tells you. A weekend warrier's oil will not hold up as long as a Kansas traveling salesman's.
I can see debating how accurate a car's oil life readings are 'till the cows come home. But it seems incredibly naive to think an oil maker's one-size fits all recommendation is better than oil life calculations that take into consideration how the car is driven and in what conditions.
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