So if for whatever reason your ATS isn't the premium and doesn't have wonderful H.I.D's here's how to get it done painlessly. I Have seen a LOT of people saying the front bumper has to be removed. THIS IS NOT TRUE! it doesn't have to be this hard, the bulbs can easily be done through the wheel well.
I changed my bulbs around today and decided to document it for people that may not be too familiar with the process, its not too bad, follow this and you shouldn't have too much issue.
!!ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELECTRICAL!!
I didn't but I'm a terrible person
1) the lights
I bought Lumens brand 9006 35W 6000K H.I.D kit, was $100 from a local store (I'm too impatient for online ordering lol) I've had great success with this brand in the past, but go with whatever you like, just make sure they're bulb size 9006 color temp is up to you, but 6000 is a nice color and makes good light, any higher and the light output drops.
I hear you can use antiflicker capacitors, I've never used them and never had an issue, but do as you will, I'm just saying, I've never bothered and never had a flickering issue.
2) These are the tools/things I used
The isopropyl is simply for wiping surfaces down to be taped to ensure they're degreased and dry.
1" spade bit on a drill
Screw driver with selectable socket bits
Torx bit (for fender screws)
Mini Ratchet for upper most fender well screw (hard to get at with the screw driver)
"LePage 2 way tape" for mounting the Ballasts, this shit sets like concrete lol
3) Turn the wheels to the opposite direction in which you'll be working. Then, remove these screws, should be a total of 4 torx screws coming out
4) pull back the fender liner, its fabric so it wont crease, dont worry. You'll see the cup that houses the headlight bulb, twist it Counter clockwise to take it off. It'll take some jiggling to get it from between the headlight and the metal behind it, but it'll come just be patient and work it out from behind. I tipped it on an angle them pulled it out. This will be very obvious once you see it you'll know what I'm talking about.
5) headlight bulb exposed after cup is removed
6)Drill a hole into the Cup, no this is not dangerous stuff I know some of you spaz at the thought of drilling a hole in a car piece. But Its just a plastic cup and if you use a 1" spade bit and drill in that center dent already marked from the factory you can't muck this up
The plug sits perfectly
7)Now you're read to replace the bulb with the H.I.D bulb. First off
DO NOT TOUCH THE BULB WITH YOUR FINGERS! they're quite sensitive, leave the plastic protective stuff on till its ready to go in. The bulbs will screw in just like the OEM bulbs did.
As for wiring it all up, don't connect it all until AFTER the bulbs screwed into the housing and the cups back on, but here's a diagram of how to do it, its pretty idiot proof (male to female) but we dont all learn at the same pace
8)I mounted my Ballast on the inner portion of those plastic inserts (where the LED fog lamps are if you got them) I used some lepage 2 way tape, stuff sits like concrete and doesn't let go, I've used it on ballasts in the past and never had an issue. I also have a zip tie there JUST IN CASE, always better to be safe than sorry. Ballast mounting isn't really that specific, this is just where I stuck'em but if you have a better spot them by all means... just make sure they're in a safe place and reletively protected from the oncoming elements
I whiped the ballast and plastic down with Rubbing alcohol to ensure its fully degreased and dry for bonding.
9)now connect it all together as shown in step 7) but it'll all be in the car now, just feed the wires down to the ballast.
10) here's the car with stock halogen on the left and HID on the right, much MUCH brighter
11) both installed
12) aim your new lights
If you look at the plastic shroud along the top front of the engine bay you'll see a flap/door thing overtop each headlight, they look like the obvious flaps you'd open to change the bulbs.. sadly, no, they house the adjuster screws.
Lift the flap open and you'll see an adjuster screw, it looks requires a big Hex key OR a big Philips head. Now park the car facing a big wall, like a garage door or the side or a walmart or something, with the lights on you'll see a definite line, this is called the cutoff line. All you need to do is twist each screw (clock wise/counter clockwise makes 'em move up/down) till both lights "cutoff lines" are even and low enough so you don't blind the drivers who'd be unfortunate enough to be coming towards you lol.
Now go enjoy your new superior headlights! I hope this has helped someone and if theirs any questions please ask. But please refrain from any "Oh shoulda used XXXXXXbrand st00pid n00b" or "shoulda used ####K lights pshaah newb!!" I used this brand and this color temp because that's worked for me, you can use whatever brand/color you like. I am open to where you mounted your ballasts or any other constructive help, I just have seen a LOT of questions regarding H.I.D installation and hope this clears a lot up.
If you somehow muck this up, or somehow hurt yourself... and I truly emphasize "somehow" I'm not in anyway liable for your butterfingers
Someone reported a problem using this procedure and the OP responded:
I haven't checked this thread in a while lol, to be honest I forgot about the D.R.L thing, my lumens kit came with a DRL relay harness (i'll take a pic of the box if you like) I never ended up putting it in when I did the kit because I had no issues with this in the past. But I recently put the harness in as I was having issues with the DRL lights. Since putting in the harness I haven't had the problem anymore. I haven't updated the How-to as it wont' let me.
It's a pain in the ass though as you need to run the cable to the battery in the trunk lol, had I known this I wouldn't have bothered with the H.I.D's in the first place.
In the states DRL's aren't mandatory and shouldn't affect most users, but if any Canadians put HIDS in you're gonna need a DRL relay as your lights will start acting up eventually.