I think I may have had a few dollars burning a hole in my pocket, but who cares! Here's how to replace a set of rear sway bar links (and upgrade to something bigger if you wanted)
You can go at this a couple ways, so I'll leave it up to you. You can opt to jack up the car and remove the wheel if you want, this would give you a little more room to work and require a little bit less flexibility and tool creativity. Or you can use a set of ramps (I love my rhino ramps, especially if your car is a bit on the lower side) and get creative.
So, the links:
You've seem them around before, they're pretty beefy, seem to be well built.
On the ramps!
A little washed out, but here's what you're going to be attacking
The nuts and bolts are 15mm. Ratcheting wrenches are going to be your friends here. They'll get the job done. If they're not too corroded, the upper link stud has a 5mm allen head relief to hold it in place while you loosen the nut. If you opted for the ramps, you'll need an L-shaped allen for the job since there not much clearance available due to the shock dust cover. Chances are, you're not going to be that lucky. However, a pair of vice grips will come in service here. There's a good hunk of metal you can lock down on to stop the stud from spinning when you're loosening the nut. My photo may not do it justice, but should help give you an idea of where to look
Once you've got this out, the hard part's done (or at least it should be). Here's old vs new - you can also see at the base of the threaded stud where I used the vice grips on.
So the issues I ran into regarding this upgraded style link - the hardware was too big for my sway bar. I've seen mixed results from members on here; some had the same issue, others didn't. I had 2 ways to handle it: 1. come off the ramps, jack the car up, remove the wheel, drill out the bar, and the hardware works. 2. get slightly smaller hardware, run a sleeve over the bolt to make up the slack in the link bushing. I opted for route #2.
Again, I had to be creative with installing the upper bolt because the wheel was still on. A stubby wrench solved my issue of clearance. This issue will not occur with stock style links, as the upper is a ball socket style setup.
(meant to toss this in the pictures forum, whoops. any nice moderator that wants to help me with that, that would be great! sorry!)