There is a TSB, which is PI-1336. Do a web search. Many TSB's describe corrective procedures. Or you could subscribe to an on-line service manual.

 

Just checking but would this be covered powertrain warranty and it goes to 70k miles? Thought maybe you were only considering the bumper to bumper. Seems like being over 70k miles on a '13 is at least out of the ordinary. Then if only slightly over, with this being a known problem it might be worth asking for help with it.

Cadillac 6-year/70,000-mile1 Transferable Powertrain Limited Warranty with no deductible for 2013 and newer models (5-years/100,000-miles1 for 2012 and older models).

DRIVE SYSTEMS
Final drive housing, all internal lubricated parts, axle shafts and bearings, constant velocity joints, axle housing, propeller shafts, universal joints, front differential actuator, supports, seals and gaskets.

 

Interesting, for some reason I had it in my head that the powertrain warranty was 50k as well. I will see what Cadillac has to say. I appreciate the info. Right now the wife has 62k on it (lots of driving to school/work)...

 

Didn't find the TSB PI-1336 in the data base... But, maybe this will help.

AXLE

SEAL

 

Did find the TSB PI-1336 in the data base... But, maybe this will help.

I really appreciate that. Just sat in the wife's car and it turns out it has 71k miles on it. FML. Looks like I'll be doing the work, lol.

Thanks again!

 

I talked to our Cadillac dealership and they are willing to help with $200 of the cost, but it's still $400 to replace one axle seal. Seems crazy to me, so I'm just going to do it myself. No idea why a 12 dollar seal and a couple hour job would be worth $600, I have no idea how anyone can afford to take their car to the dealership.

 

Realistically if you are paying 40K+ for a luxury vehicle factory service after warranty period is going to be expensive, remember the median selling price of new vehicles at the luxury dealers are well above entry priced cars so weather the service dept is doing a base ATS [34K] or a Premium Escalade[80-100K] overall labor and parts lean toward a much higher median. There is a reason independent MB car service garages lots are packed with customer vehicles, I would suspect this is a similar situation for Audi and BMW older car owners.GM vehicles can generally be serviced more reasonably at most legit shops.I have my 2011 SRX [out of warranty now] serviced at local GMC dealer.JMO

 

I understand your point, however I for one do not have the money nor desire to frivolously spend $400 on something that really isn't that difficult. Yes my time is valuable, but as a medical student, the money would be much better spent elsewhere. I do have a local chevy dealership who has always treated my father in law well, I may ask them if they do any Cadillac service.

 

custom90gt... I need a couple of missing fasteners... IE - screws. Cadillac wants $2.42 a piece for them.

OBTW - they were missing from the factory.

Sent Via Tapatalk

 

I have sent the OP the How To via email. It's to big to post here. If you think you want a copy PM me with a email addy.

 

Interested in receiving the how to guide , I can't PM though

 

A quick update to this thread. I replaced the axle seal yesterday, it did take me almost 3 hours. I didn't have to pull the axle shaft out, I could just disconnect it from the companion shaft. I don't think I could have done this without a slide hammer - the companion flange and seal would have been near impossible without it. I did buy the tool to put the seal in, it did help because it has to go in just the right amount and doesn't sit flush with anything.

Thanks to @oemtech for the diagrams and torque specs.

 

Way to go. What do you think your total cost was, slide hammer, seal, and special tool?

 

Yup dealer did mine at around 25k

 

Ditto!

Saw the leaks on the garage floor. Dealership covered the replacement with no issue.

 

Interested in this if you still have it. I've changed seals on other cars, but understanding my ATS a little better before doing it would sure help.

 

I know longer have access to that info... Let the subscription expire when I sold the car. Maybe the OP still has them.

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Dang sorry I guess I'm not subscribed to this thread. I still have the instructions from oemtech if anyone needs them send me a PM.

 

I have downloaded the file and will put it up on my photoserver web site when I get home from vacation in few. Road trip in the Corvette.

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Thanks so much for uploading!

Anyone can answer, but would the process be the same for a 2013 AWD ATS 2.0T? I see the instructions doc is for a 2014 RWD 2.0T.

I ask because my dealer said that to do the rear axle seals in my 2013 AWD 2.0T would be about $600 (!!!) after tax.

Just curious if I can get a list of parts needed (part numbers) and take it to a decent mechanic for half the price.

Any ideas???

 

OK here is the link to the .doc file. R & R Axle Seal Click on R&R Axle Seal this should open a new tab/window to select the download folder.

Hey while you are there check the parts for sale.

 

OK here is the link to the .doc file. R & R Axle Seal Click on R&R Axle Seal this should open a new tab/window to select the download folder.

Hey while you are there check the parts for sale.

Thanks a bunch for this!

 

I’m having the same issue with my cv half shaft flinging grease. Anyone determine whether this is indeed covered under powertrain warranty? Mine is almost out with 63k miles on the car .

 

Best way to find out is to call your dealership and find out.
If they don't give you an answer, you can try Cadillac customer service by phone or email.

I don't know the answer, but I would suspect yes as the CV grease is connected to the drive-line of the vehicle.

 

I understand the frustration with the cost to install a $12 part. Why would it fail in the first place, as seal design has been virtually perfected? I was quoted $400 to replace radius arm bushings in an RV, which involves only 3 bolts and one nut per side. I bought the parts for $37 and did it myself, as I'm not stranger to suspension work on cars. RVs are just a larger version!
I would attempt the seal replacement myself. Even if you have to buy or rent a special tool you should be able to do it for a LOT less. Look at it as a puzzle, held together by nuts and bolts.

 

Ok same fate for me, leaking and no more warranty.

Just wanted to change the diff fluid. Its totally wet and seems both seals are gone...

Differential was replaced under warranty in january 2020 and this should have been the 4th fluid change and vent cleaning process. Totally 20.000 km / 12.000 miles on it.

That is the right part no. for both sides: 22993017 , isn't it?

More Information for GM GENUINE 291333

Entered my VIN at GMpartsgiant and they offered this number to me. GMpartsdirect say it is for manual transmission (well, this page doesn't find my VIN at all... ).
Are there any differences?

I own an 2015 ATS with FE3 suspesion, so limited-slip differential.

 

That is the right part no. for both sides: 22993017 , isn't it?

More Information for GM GENUINE 291333

Entered my VIN at GMpartsgiant and they offered this number to me. GMpartsdirect say it is for manual transmission (well, this page doesn't find my VIN at all... ).
Are there any differences?

I own an 2015 ATS with FE3 suspesion, so limited-slip differential.

I entered that part number into gmpartsdirect and it says it fits my 13 lux with the open diff.

I think the posi diffs are bigger, but thinking maybe all use same output shafts, I checked part no for the shafts and shaft 22772335 fitment shows it's used on all trims including Premium which are posi. Also shows part no is for both sides:

Rear Axle for 2013 Cadillac ATS | GMPartsDirect.com

www.gmpartsdirect.com

Based on that link, looks like seals & output shafts are same across the board. Shows 2 seal and shaft part numbers, lists all as fitting my car, so hopefully their info is correct. Good luck with your seal replacement adventure.

 

That's how mine looks all the time. For the past 2 or 3 years, about twice a year I try to add fluid. I spill more than I actually add and am still on the original bottle (1 quart/.9 liter) I bought. For so many diffs to fail early on from running dry, I'm starting to think that the original seals they used were completely useless, but maybe the ones they used as replacements were substantially better, but still weep a little bit of fluid? Maybe that's just the case with mine. I think I have about 70,000 miles on the warranty replaced diff and about 50,000 miles on the last warranty replaced seals.

 

about 50,000 miles on the last warranty replaced seals.

Do you have your paperwork with the pn for the seals. Curious as to what it lists for your posi diff.

 

My thought of it: replace the seals and install a new vent / breather kit for the differential:

Thats a dual one for AWD offroad cars so that the vent will get above water level in case. I think it should be able to get this one as a single vent.

The time I opened the fill plug there was the typically noise of sucking air. So too much air pressure inside.

 

Changed my oil the other day and jacked up the back to take a good look at my diff. New seals were put in at 33k miles, I now have 56k miles. Very happy that it's dry as a bone.

(Driver side first photo, passenger side second photo.)