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Got screwed over on E Bay so HELP !!!

14K views 70 replies 9 participants last post by  KrisK 
#1 ·
Thought I found a great deal but when the car was shipped to me I felt ill. Cracked windshield and most things dont work. Dont know where to start. Runs and drives and shifts great. Has new tires but thats the end of the good. Nice rag top but how do I clamp down the back of the top. It looks like a hook of some time but not sure. No manual so dont know if there are fuses for what. I see fuse but do not know what they control. As you see my first experiance with the Allante is a disaster. I need help. Headlites work but lens are cracked. I guess I need a high bridge. HELP would be very much appreciated. :crying::crying2:
 
#32 ·
OK, we've verified the window switches work, which is great news. That means your issue is either:

- a weak motor (easy cheap fix)
- worn window regulator tape (cheap fix)
- regulator needs lubricating (easy cheap fix)
- regulator needs replacing (most expensive of the bunch but beats needing a new window switch)
 
#37 ·
screws. the door panel is a 2 piece panel, you really only need to remove the bottom panel

-first you take the armrest - off two phillips screws

-once you remove the armrest theres a black plate with 4 screws. 2 big ones attach to the actual door sheetmetal, you can take off just the 2 big screws

- there are 3 or 4 more screws along the bottom of the door panel that need to be removed

- there should be 2 inside the door handle, big silverish screws.

- once you have all the screws out, look in from the bottom and see if you can reach your hand in there and disconnect the lock and door handles from the linkages

- you can optionally remove the window switch box, or the black plate. this may make it easier to disconnect the lock and door handle from the linkages.

- the door panel might just fall now, if not pull down, back and out all at once, gently but firmly, no jerking in other words
 
#38 ·
as for your radio, chances are your bose amps have failed. theres one at each speaker in a pod (4 amps total). they often fail, but are not that hard to fix if you know what to do (or if you want to play russian roulette at the junkyard with trying to find working amps)
if you're good with a soldering gun and technical stuff (or know someone who is), heres a helpful link
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-tech-performance/1361793-bose-speaker-amp-repair-94-and-more.html
I should mention that bose amps were different (slightly) for every car model they were put in. any of them will work, but you will need to replace them in pairs (if you go to the j/y) replace both front amps with a lf and rf amp from a car, and the lr and rr amps with an lr and a rr amp. they wont sound the same as the originals, but they will work for a while (how long is anyone guess- I had a set in my fwb for a year. the 2 rears worked great, but the 2 fronts died pretty quick.)
as for possible amp donors
eldorados and sevilles from 1988 or so until the mid 90's body change. you want the gold series amps (50 watt max per amp)
devilles from '86 to 93? (the boxy ones) again- you want gold series amps.
corvettes had them- convertibles had higher output amps.
I've also heard of luminas and some other GM cars having bose amps, but they werent that common in those cars

DO NOT buy amps from cars that are missing the factory radio or have an aftermarket radio. chances are the amps are fried.
 
#43 ·
yes. theres a big black bracket on the door skin. at the place that the handle would normally be youll see two holes and behind it a "floating" metal piece also with two holes, these are threaded holes. this piece is SO FRACKING ANNOYING. youll move it into place, get the door panel on, then try to put the door handle in, only to have the piece move out of place!

so, you have a couple of options

1) move the floating metal piece into place, take a small hammer and tap or bang the metal bracket until the "dent" hold the metal piece in place. you dont need to destroy the metal bracket or hammer/dent it heavily, only enough to lightly pinch the metal piece into place

2) take a thick putty or even a good tape and tape that piece into place, making sure to leave the holes available for the screws to thread into.


i always had to put the panel on partially, put the handle in partially, snap the linkage onto it, THEN screw it in
 
#46 ·
o i forgot these were equipped that way. your motor is probably bad.

try feeding some current directly to the motor. of course reverse it if it goes the wrong way. if you can get it to work this way i highly suggest lowering it completely then either disconnecting the harness to it or pulling the fuse to it


or you can hit up a junkyard and look for one from another cadillac
 
#48 ·
Ask away we are not bothered. The pull down motor is the latch that catches your trunk lid. Mine will not pull down unless I apply a little pressure to the trunk to start it off. The latch starts in the up position and when your lid hit it it starts pulling it down. I suggest you just do as was previously advised. Yes you can fix it but really it is just a novelty just get it to go down if you can and then unhook it.

The third stop light is in the lid of the trunk. Simply pull up that cover and twist the bulb out. You will find it at Autozone and it has the part number on the bulb so you will find it easy.
 
#49 ·
hey buddy don't be embarrassed. to be honest when i pull up the forums i scroll scroll slow down to see how your project is coming and if i don't see a new post i keep scrolling to the lounge.

i consider this like a quiz almost. besides, every time im able to answer a question its because ive been through it. that means any issue youve had ive had.

to access the pull down motor open the trunk obviously
take a flat screw driver or panel pry bar and pull the little plastic clips off of the plastic "lip" that covers the carpet trunk liner. this is on the car itself not the trunk lid.
where the clips were there are now holes with bolts or possibly screws in them. unbolt or unscrew them, i think there were 8
once you have them all out you can wrestle the plastic lip out
once you have that off you should be able to also move the carpet out of the way.
once the carpet is out of the way you can see a body colored metal plate/hump bolted over the pulldown motor assembly i think its 4 bolts.
if you want to remove or troubleshoot the actual assembly you will remove this plate.
you may not need to remove if you want to verify power is reaching the assembly by checking the harness

what i ended up doing was a long painstaking process. i removed the housing, took it apart, made sure nothing was cracked then replaced the switch itself. when that didn't work i removed the motor housing and MANUALLY turned the motor so that the assembly would lower. i bolted the assembly back in without the motor housing and had to manually tweak and get the right height by trial and error.
 
#51 ·
Well I did it again. I was checking all lights, windows, seats, pull downs, etc and came out of the garage and when I returned I heard a slight "Ding" . Something must be on so when I tried to start the car it would not even click. Very low lights so I was going to jump it or charge the battery. Hmmmm !! Wonder where they hid the battery.

Sorry ,
Larry
 
#52 ·
pop the hood and go to the passenger side. between the headlight and coolant reservoir you should see a red plastic box. open the box and youll see some some battery cables and terminal bolts. connect your positive to this

the negative is on the passenger side strut tower

if you want access to the battery itself, its behind the passenger seat in the "hidden" compartment that you can access by removeing the trim piece with the keyhole in it
 
#55 ·
I guess since I put the door cover on and all is installed except the door handle I must take it all apart and then start the screws for the door handle and then install everything and then tighten the handle screws ???

Guys Im getten toooo old for this. It was nothing but FUN when I was all of your ages but I think its time to get back to my golfcart.
 
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