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Cadillac Forums: long term storage .. 3+ months
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Old 09-26-04, 08:26 PM
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Re: long term storage .. 3+ months

Seems excessive for 90 days, to me.
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Old 09-29-04, 05:55 PM
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Re: long term storage .. 3+ months

for 90 days it might be but here in rochester its much longer than 90 days so its not too bad
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Old 10-16-04, 09:47 PM
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Re: long term storage .. 3+ months

Whatever you do to store it the main thing is to NOT start the engine periodically. Just warm it up good, park it and leave it. All the other things are great to do but you can undo any sort of prep by starting the engine occasionally. That just puts tons of water and junk into the oil and exhaust that cannot be dried out unless you drive it. Park it and leave it.

The two stroke premix prep works for all cars and all engines...not just fuel injected engines. In fact, I would say that it is far more important for carbureted engines than fuel injected engines as the light coating of residual oil in the carb prevents any varnish from sticking to jets and such during storage and since the oil will not dry out it keeps gaskets and such pliable and keeps them from shrinking as happens when the gas dries out of the float bowls.
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Old 10-09-08, 10:20 AM
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Re: long term storage .. 3+ months

WINTER 2008 approaching ...

a quote from the past with some important additions and edits ...


It is of IMO that the best is to install your hard top for the winter and stow the soft top down.
Now that I said that, the soft top should be stretched now and then, specially when it gets wet. Never ever stow soft top damp. Soft top's enemy is weather, UV light, moisture - In the Allante, the soft top cover removes those three issues providing dry and dark stowage. But if you stretch it in the summer months, THAT is all you should need.

If the car has NO HARD TOP, I would still stow soft top down, well protected under the soft top cover. Then cover the car itself.

I currently got three rag top cars, and the soft tops stay stowed. yes, cars do get covered, mainly to keep UV light away as much as possible & from getting scratches Dust is not the issue, after all, they usually need a good wash when they roll out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealth View Post

Josh, not a good idea to start it up in storage .. read on ...



these are the ones i heard from the pros:

don't jack the car .. (don't know why & still wondering)

pump tires to the maximum on the sidewall before storage .. do not apply silicone tire dressing (cracks rubber)...

check ALL drain holes, make sure they are CLEAN and open ...

apply WD-40, white grease, & die-electric grease as you go along to all applicable parts, connectors. etc ...

lotion leather/vinyl with lanolin, mink oil, neatfoot oil / creams .. silicone & petroleum will dry and crack vinyl & leather ...

disconnect battery to avoid draining (a dead battery will freeze and split)...

place electronic rodent repellents as they will "camp" in the car and often chew wires...

plug the tail pipe...

Don't flush trani. Why hook your trans up to some equipment and get the debris from the last transmission they flushed dumped into yours...

edit on 10-09-2008 .. on ALL ALUMINUM ENGINES, change coolant with 50/50 mix, add the supplement .. will save the head gaskets for another day .. supplement: two of the clear tubes of the BarsLeaks “Gold” in your engine to guard against coolant intrusion into the oil. Use the green conventional coolant, Prestone or Texaco, mixed 50/50 with DISTILLED water ... wanna skip? repair $2,300


on '87 to '92, flush the ABS .. will save the ABS seals for another day ...wanna skip? repair $1,300


change oil & filter, trani oil & filter...

check fuel cap for sealing ...there is little to no danger of condensation building up in the tank and causing water problems. fuel "weathers" very little in storage (under 6 months), the fuel tank is not vented to atmosphere, there is little if any evaporation of the fuel...

wash & wax .. then apply “Mothers Back to Black” to black plastic surfaces, “KRYTOX” to all weather seals ...

never NEVER use or place within 50 ft of the car a bottle of Armorall or any other silicone product ............. implants excepted?
...


fuel injected cars: a week before storage add the two-stroke pre-mix oil to get a 40:1 ratio with tank fuel, and drive most of the tank thru the engine and then park it for storage. Forget any other additives. this should "fog" the internal engine parts with oil as the premix will coat and cling to all the internal parts, exhaust valves, exhaust system, etc ...

most important:
get the car/engine THOROUGHLY warmed up, BY DRIVING IT 15 min or longer, then drive it into storage and leave it alone until you are ready to remove the car from storage. DO NOT start it up in storage or occasionally as all this does is put byproducts into the oil, water into the exhaust system, and corrosion .. need to move the car? PUSH it ...

brakes ABS .. with nothing running, key OFF, pump brake pedal 25 times to release the ABS pressure .. you won't be needing the brakes until spring & will relax the seals .. (by the time you do are at this item, ABS got flushed, right?) ... wanna skip? repair $1,300

COLD, DRY, DARK storage is best .. damp / warmth storage promotes corrosion .. sunlight deteriorates fabrics and leather .. a dehumidifier will dry the air nicely...

although some of the items here are for the Allanté, most of this can be applied to all cars ...

see ya in spring ..........
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